Clutch Fork Pivot Ball Snapped :(

[jiffo]

I presume the OP has it all together by now but for reference, 20 to 30 mm won't be a misaligned clutch spline, the clutch shaft will be through the plates by then.

That dimension is usually a burred over spigot bearing from excessive crooked forcing of the box while not quite lined up.

Another more dreadful scenario is an incorrectly setup throw out assembly, but this can be checked via the throw out lever slot in the bell housing.

[perzn_34]

Its literally 20mm to the block now and the dam thing wont go in.. i try wobbling it in.. but dosnt want to go in.

I'm buying extender bolts to use them for bringing rhe box closer to the block and i guess that way it would line up as I screw it in more?

[MrStabby]

Pulling it it will longer bolts will probably just break whatever is stopping it, which i'd say is the splines on the clutch plate. The un-splined bit of the input shaft will be thru the clutch plate, but that doesn't mean it will just slide in. Make sure you have the centerline of the crank as closely lined up to the centerline of the input shaft as you can. Ie the box should be in the "as fully installed" position. Then its wobbling and twisting (to get the splines to mesh spline in groove, rather than spline to spline/groove to groove) and lots of persistence/swearing to get it in.

[perzn_34]

I only had 10-20mm to fully go in, got 20mm longer bolts and the box sided in like a dream! Its actually not that hard with jacks and ramps when you think back.

Only issue now is my drive shaft is slightly rubbing on the metal sheet cylinder at the end of the gearbox which is freaking annoying, also the fork boot wont go in too easy once everything else is fitted

and did my rear pads at the same time and they are squeaking like lil bitch wtf?!?!