Key Problems

[V35_Paul]

Hey guys

I been having some problems with both my smart keys.

It first started a few months ago every now and again, the car was saying that there was no key but i was in my pocket or in my lap. The car would always unlocked and started then it would say there is no key.

Then it was saying that the battery was getting flat. So i guess the problem was the battery.

But now that I've changed the batteries on both. the problem is getting worst. Sometimes i cant unlock with the button on the car i have to use the remote button and put the key in its slot to start it.

LOL i laugh now.... silly first world problems

anyone had something simmilar?

[colin.ssc]

No, not yet, hope it stays that way. But that is quite odd that after changing batteries the problem got worse. Mmm both keys?

[The Max]

They're the right size battery, as in they're making proper contact with both terminals?

[V35_Paul]

I might change them again.

Can someone tell me what batteries they got.

I have 3V CR2032

[The Max]

Yep, that's what my fob uses too, even though mine's a 2009 model. If you have a multimeter handy, just check to see if it's sitting on around 3.3V or thereabouts. It's weird it's happening to both though. I'd understand one dud battery but not two.

[V35_Paul]

Ok so I've just found out how to get around my problem.

The car won't lock untill the interior light turns off. "WHAAAAAAAAT!!!!!"

I don't know why but I have now turned off my interior light and the car locks up fine.

Anyone had this before?

[The Max]

Normally, you can lock your car without having to wait for the interior light to do anything, so even if it's already at the stage of beginning to dim, locking the vehicle will then skip the dimming and turn them off.

I would start with one simple check ... does the vehicle know when your doors and boot are closed? With everything else closed, if you press the driver's door switch in, does the interior light eventually switch off? Check the same for your other door and boot. If it doesn't behave as it should with any of those switches, it's likely it's just the door switch that's giving you grief there and so it won't lock up because it's thinking the door or boot is ajar.

Then the next thing to check is that the switches are indeed working and it's not your BCM. Get your hands on a multimeter and measure the voltages at the switch points on the BCM. I haven't got a schematic handy now to check which pins you need to test with your meter but you need to see if there's an obvious change in voltage (typically 0V for an open door, +12V for a closed door in most vehicles).

If the switches appear to be operating normally, then it sounds like there's something horribly wrong with your BCM. Given your other symptoms you've reported, it's likely to be the case but you need to check the basics first just to simply follow the logical chain (not to mention it's cheaper if you find a dud switch as opposed to a dud BCM and then having to reprogram it with a Consult diagnostic tool).

[V35_Paul]

It's all gone shit again.

Locks are working, keys are working but I have to wait about 15sec (I haven't really timed it) after the car is turned off before I an lock it.

Normally, you can lock your car without having to wait for the interior light to do anything, so even if it's already at the stage of beginning to dim, locking the vehicle will then skip the dimming and turn them off.

I would start with one simple check ... does the vehicle know when your doors and boot are closed? With everything else closed, if you press the driver's door switch in, does the interior light eventually switch off? Check the same for your other door and boot. If it doesn't behave as it should with any of those switches, it's likely it's just the door switch that's giving you grief there and so it won't lock up because it's thinking the door or boot is ajar.

Then the next thing to check is that the switches are indeed working and it's not your BCM. Get your hands on a multimeter and measure the voltages at the switch points on the BCM. I haven't got a schematic handy now to check which pins you need to test with your meter but you need to see if there's an obvious change in voltage (typically 0V for an open door, +12V for a closed door in most vehicles).

If the switches appear to be operating normally, then it sounds like there's something horribly wrong with your BCM. Given your other symptoms you've reported, it's likely to be the case but you need to check the basics first just to simply follow the logical chain (not to mention it's cheaper if you find a dud switch as opposed to a dud BCM and then having to reprogram it with a Consult diagnostic tool).

[colin.ssc]

Is the problem worse on rainy days or days you washed your car? Just thinking if you theres flooding around electrical components.....

[Rufus007]

How old is your car battery (not remotes batteries)? I've had cars do strange shit from an failing battery before. Plus you said it works better when interior lights are off (so less drain).

Edited April 5, 2016 by Rufus007

[The Max]

It's all gone shit again.

Locks are working, keys are working but I have to wait about 15sec (I haven't really timed it) after the car is turned off before I an lock it.

Time to focus more on the diagnostics and less on the symptoms. We've already established that things have gotten a little nuts.

Do some testing and get back to us with the results.

[V35_Paul]

Ok I have been testing a few things.

I have a dash cam that's plugged into the 12v socket under the lid in the centre console. When the car turns on the dash cam automatically turns on and turns off automatically after about 13sec when the car is turned off. Same time it takes for me to be able to lock the car. If the the dash camera is off I can lock my car. The camera has lots of sensors, GPS, night vision, accelerometer and motion detection. I think one of these is interfering with the cars ability to detect and sensor the key.

I've tried unplugging from the 12v socket before getting out and locking but I still have to wait for the dash cam to power down.

......Wonder if I should try shielding the camera with something.

[The Max]

Wow. That's an interesting cause. What's the make and model of dashcam?

Unplugging the dashcam from your +12V accessories line won't necessarily solve the problem if the camera has its own built-in battery to keep the camera going while the car is off. Which means that camera is emitting something that's upsetting the vehicle, probably the motion sensor if it's microwave.

Don't shield the camera unless you want to lose the motion sensor and GPS functionality. Pass me the make and model details and I'll see what I can figure out from the manuals for it.

[admS15]

I had an issue with my dashcam. Nothing like yours but I was getting annoying radio interference. I ended up changing the power supply socket to a good quality belkin one I had lying around and my problem was solved. I would suggest trying that as it is a cheap item to replace and check.

[The Max]

Trouble is though, in his case, the problem persists even with the unit unplugged from the car's power, suggesting that it's operating on its own internal battery.

[admS15]

In that case, maybe u will have to manually power the thing down.

[V35_Paul]

Don't know brand or model number. Bought it many years ago on Alibaba.com

I might invest in a new one in a few weeks.

I might try and put this one on the rear window and see if it still affects the key

[The Max]

I'd recommend forking out the cash for something a little more decent than any of AliBaba's offerings. For the best performance in low-light (and because it has front and rear cameras), I got the BlackVue 650. It's a Korean product but for the $550-odd, well worth it.