Jump to content
SAU Community

My White Japanese Girlfriend: R33 Build


Recommended Posts

Lol. Funny that you'd say that cause I've got mates running over 300kw and they recommended cometic. Lol. Then again, I did a quick search and there're more bad reviews than good. Haha. Probably because some people have luck with it. Lol. Anyway, what if I dont slap in new pistons, would an 87mm fit straight on? Not exactly the biggest fan of the NEO but would a stock HG actually be able to withstand that much KW on a regular RB25DET?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers mate! Wow. Good luck with that, man! Sure thing. Thanks again. :cheers:

Alright, so quick update. Great news! I just got my car back and she's running 1 bar of boost after so long. Turns out that the boost controller hose was blocked for some unknown reason. Oh well. All good now. Will dyno sometime this weekend. Not expecting too much tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello peeps! Updates! Updates!

So I finally installed a better fuel pump and the ecu. Did a before and after run on dyno.

Before: 196rwhp

After: 226rwhp

Can somebody please interpret the below graph cause the second graph looks funny? For some unknown reason, she loses power as she peaks. :unhappy:

IMG_20160326_WA0037.jpg

Was really disappointed with the results. I was told that she was capable of churning out approx. 270rwhp if there werent any boost leaks. Then I remembered Chasers telling me that I had a cracked throttle body a year ago when my R33 was still in Melbourne. Garghh.

Moving forward, I bought some new parts for the 33 as planned. Hehe. :santa:

1) Walbro 400lph Fuel Pump (Installed)

2) HKS Fuel Rail

3) Intake Manifold

4) Bigger & Meaner Turbo - Garrett GT35R (TWIN SCROLL BABY!!!!)

5) Turbosmart RacePort BOV (Installed)

2016_04_10_12_23_24.jpg

2016_04_10_12_24_17.jpg

2016_04_10_12_25_44.jpg

Next up on my shopping list, 80mm throttle body, 650cc injectors, bigger FMIC, external wastegate and custom twin scroll turbo manifold..

Quick question tho, I did some searches on twin scroll set ups and I'm lost between having a single wastegate or twin wastegates. Some think single is substantial, others think twin does a better job. MM... Any ideas which is best?

Oh yes. Before I end the post, I attended a Skyline Mega Gathering in Malaysia recently where 40 over Skylines turned up. Here are some from the meet. Kinda straying from the topic but you guys really need to see this. Hehe.

Godzilla_Day_29.jpg

Godzilla_Day_37.jpg

Godzilla_Day_45.jpg

Til next time!

Edited by GeorgeLow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a big bad turbo, will be interested to see how the TS setup goes, there is a good youtube video of this turbo in twin scroll but on a GTR, gives you an idea of the response/performance

look up ....( GTR RB26 twins vs single motive dvd)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That turbo is HUGE... anyhow, you can run a single say 50mm gate, but you need both pulses split (Cyls 1~3 and Cyl 4~6) all the way to the seat of the gate.

Or run twin 38mm gates, might work out easier.. I suggest bigger injectors.. 650cc is meh.. get modern Bosch ones, somewhere in the 1150cc range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things are gonna get very interesting with that beast of a turbo bolted on. As far as your current graph, looking at the boost, it's spiking to aound 1.1 bar and then dropping straight off and ends up at 0.5 bar in top end. Your boost controller is not working or setup properly. What is controlling boost, Ecu or stand alone boost controller?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mark. Checked the video out. Pretty helpful tho they only did a comparison between twin turbos and single turbo.

Johnny. You're back. Lol. Twin gates work out easier meaning?

1150cc?!?! Isnt that a little excessive? Are 750cc and 1000cc any good? Cause some actually hit the 335rwkw mark with 750cc..

Adms15, Yea man. I cant wait for it to be bolted on along with everything else and a tune. I'm targeting around 300rwkw. Thanks buddy. Was hoping to identify the reason as to why she is losing power. I'll have to get her looked at this weekend hopefully. I'm not too sure tho. I suppose the ecu kinda overwrites everything including boost controller, no? Before installation of ecu, i ran a turbosmart boost controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

easier for plumbing as the pipe work is smaller where the gates come off the manifold... you can run a single "larger" gate somewhere in the 50mm range and do something like this:

post-14974-1260829211.jpg

I personally run 875cc Siemen DEKA IV top feed stainless steel injectors and my duty cycle in hitting 90% (or so) already.. I'm going to re-tune the car soon as it has a new turbo setup and I'm pretty confident I'll run out of injector pretty soon... but saying that, because they're modern injectors I'm able to bump the base pressure without any real issue.

New modern injectors are very linear, meaning they won't fall off like your conventional injectors and give you poor economy and/or idle with low pulse widths.

Oh.. that turbo is a little overkill for 300kW not to mention will be on the laggy side.. how big is the compressor? 76mm or 82mm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So your ecu is now controlling boost? If yes, then either the target and duty cycle settings aren't set right or the boost control valve is incorrectly plumbed. Best to get the problem sorted now, so when you do your upgrades its one less thing to worry about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually considering twin gates as they're a much more inexpensive option which actually perform similarly to a single one. Then again, I'll consult my mechanic about it to further understand this. Owh. Interesting. Do they have the side feed ones? As in modern injectors or are they all top feed? I was told that the turbo is capable of making around 360 to 400rwkw. Thats massive. I'd have to modify the internals. Lol. 350rwkw however does sound tempting. I'll be honest. I'm not too sure. It says Garrett M12 AR.70 on the compressor section but it says AR.82 on the turbine section.

Long story short, my tuner sucks. Lol. Incompetent tuning at an exorbitant price. I'm actually considering other options. Called him up and he told me that he couldnt remember. Anyway, thanks admS15 for pointing me in the right direction. I'll look into it when I can. True what you said there. Sort it out and one less thing to worry about..

Edited by GeorgeLow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...