Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol. Funny that you'd say that cause I've got mates running over 300kw and they recommended cometic. Lol. Then again, I did a quick search and there're more bad reviews than good. Haha. Probably because some people have luck with it. Lol. Anyway, what if I dont slap in new pistons, would an 87mm fit straight on? Not exactly the biggest fan of the NEO but would a stock HG actually be able to withstand that much KW on a regular RB25DET?

mine has been going strong for a while.. regularly gets thrashed on the track too :)

More so you need better studs, as the stock ones stretch when you start making decent power

Cheers mate! Wow. Good luck with that, man! Sure thing. Thanks again. :cheers:

Alright, so quick update. Great news! I just got my car back and she's running 1 bar of boost after so long. Turns out that the boost controller hose was blocked for some unknown reason. Oh well. All good now. Will dyno sometime this weekend. Not expecting too much tho.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello peeps! Updates! Updates!

So I finally installed a better fuel pump and the ecu. Did a before and after run on dyno.

Before: 196rwhp

After: 226rwhp

Can somebody please interpret the below graph cause the second graph looks funny? For some unknown reason, she loses power as she peaks. :unhappy:

IMG_20160326_WA0037.jpg

Was really disappointed with the results. I was told that she was capable of churning out approx. 270rwhp if there werent any boost leaks. Then I remembered Chasers telling me that I had a cracked throttle body a year ago when my R33 was still in Melbourne. Garghh.

Moving forward, I bought some new parts for the 33 as planned. Hehe. :santa:

1) Walbro 400lph Fuel Pump (Installed)

2) HKS Fuel Rail

3) Intake Manifold

4) Bigger & Meaner Turbo - Garrett GT35R (TWIN SCROLL BABY!!!!)

5) Turbosmart RacePort BOV (Installed)

2016_04_10_12_23_24.jpg

2016_04_10_12_24_17.jpg

2016_04_10_12_25_44.jpg

Next up on my shopping list, 80mm throttle body, 650cc injectors, bigger FMIC, external wastegate and custom twin scroll turbo manifold..

Quick question tho, I did some searches on twin scroll set ups and I'm lost between having a single wastegate or twin wastegates. Some think single is substantial, others think twin does a better job. MM... Any ideas which is best?

Oh yes. Before I end the post, I attended a Skyline Mega Gathering in Malaysia recently where 40 over Skylines turned up. Here are some from the meet. Kinda straying from the topic but you guys really need to see this. Hehe.

Godzilla_Day_29.jpg

Godzilla_Day_37.jpg

Godzilla_Day_45.jpg

Til next time!

Edited by GeorgeLow

Thats a big bad turbo, will be interested to see how the TS setup goes, there is a good youtube video of this turbo in twin scroll but on a GTR, gives you an idea of the response/performance

look up ....( GTR RB26 twins vs single motive dvd)

That turbo is HUGE... anyhow, you can run a single say 50mm gate, but you need both pulses split (Cyls 1~3 and Cyl 4~6) all the way to the seat of the gate.

Or run twin 38mm gates, might work out easier.. I suggest bigger injectors.. 650cc is meh.. get modern Bosch ones, somewhere in the 1150cc range.

Things are gonna get very interesting with that beast of a turbo bolted on. As far as your current graph, looking at the boost, it's spiking to aound 1.1 bar and then dropping straight off and ends up at 0.5 bar in top end. Your boost controller is not working or setup properly. What is controlling boost, Ecu or stand alone boost controller?

Thanks Mark. Checked the video out. Pretty helpful tho they only did a comparison between twin turbos and single turbo.

Johnny. You're back. Lol. Twin gates work out easier meaning?

1150cc?!?! Isnt that a little excessive? Are 750cc and 1000cc any good? Cause some actually hit the 335rwkw mark with 750cc..

Adms15, Yea man. I cant wait for it to be bolted on along with everything else and a tune. I'm targeting around 300rwkw. Thanks buddy. Was hoping to identify the reason as to why she is losing power. I'll have to get her looked at this weekend hopefully. I'm not too sure tho. I suppose the ecu kinda overwrites everything including boost controller, no? Before installation of ecu, i ran a turbosmart boost controller.

easier for plumbing as the pipe work is smaller where the gates come off the manifold... you can run a single "larger" gate somewhere in the 50mm range and do something like this:

post-14974-1260829211.jpg

I personally run 875cc Siemen DEKA IV top feed stainless steel injectors and my duty cycle in hitting 90% (or so) already.. I'm going to re-tune the car soon as it has a new turbo setup and I'm pretty confident I'll run out of injector pretty soon... but saying that, because they're modern injectors I'm able to bump the base pressure without any real issue.

New modern injectors are very linear, meaning they won't fall off like your conventional injectors and give you poor economy and/or idle with low pulse widths.

Oh.. that turbo is a little overkill for 300kW not to mention will be on the laggy side.. how big is the compressor? 76mm or 82mm?

So your ecu is now controlling boost? If yes, then either the target and duty cycle settings aren't set right or the boost control valve is incorrectly plumbed. Best to get the problem sorted now, so when you do your upgrades its one less thing to worry about.

I'm actually considering twin gates as they're a much more inexpensive option which actually perform similarly to a single one. Then again, I'll consult my mechanic about it to further understand this. Owh. Interesting. Do they have the side feed ones? As in modern injectors or are they all top feed? I was told that the turbo is capable of making around 360 to 400rwkw. Thats massive. I'd have to modify the internals. Lol. 350rwkw however does sound tempting. I'll be honest. I'm not too sure. It says Garrett M12 AR.70 on the compressor section but it says AR.82 on the turbine section.

Long story short, my tuner sucks. Lol. Incompetent tuning at an exorbitant price. I'm actually considering other options. Called him up and he told me that he couldnt remember. Anyway, thanks admS15 for pointing me in the right direction. I'll look into it when I can. True what you said there. Sort it out and one less thing to worry about..

Edited by GeorgeLow

Take it to Chequered Tuning, Trent will sort you out.. he knows his schizzle.

That looks like a GTX3582... which is freaking huge LOL... will make north of 450kW....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...