Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

RB25/30 with all coolant lines blocked/removed (only have turbo water feed and radiator in/out)

Greddy FFP

PWR radiator

So basically my issue is that no matter what thermostat I run my operating temperature is always 84 degrees.

Have run an 82deg, 76deg and 65 deg genuine Nissan thermostats and it always gets up to 84deg and just sits there happy as. The 76 and 65 thermostats were not brand new. Second hand with unknown k's but looked in good condition.

I have used both clutch fan and thermo fans with no difference. Weird that it always ends up sitting at the same temp no matter the thermostat.

Any advice appreciated as to how to fix this issue, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462869-running-temp-issue/
Share on other sites

All thermostats work as advertised in a pot of water. That's why it's such a head scratcher for me.

I know 84 is probably pretty good but car does get a little hot and was wanting some more headroom for Queensland drift matsuri as it's going to be hot as f**k up there.

Wow interesting, I run a 67 degree Tridon "high flow" thermostat and she runs about 72 to 75 normal operating temp.

Time for no thermostat, since track car right? Lol

I've heard a couple of people (one was a largish workshop) say you should never run without a thermostat because it has an effect on the water pump's operation. Apparently running a gutted thermostat is ok tho (if you're not worried about the startup/cool running implications)...

I would think 84 deg is fine. Do you have an oil cooler for track use?

You'll he surprised how fast it hits 100.

The more head room you have the better, I find that now I've swapped to a lower temp thermostat and adjusted my temp tables to suit (65 degrees is when all my fuel compensations are disabled) I'm able to do more hot laps at Wakefield before it gets a little too hot.

  • 4 weeks later...

Considering I have some (apparently useless) thermostats here, how should I gut them? I would be happy to run no thermostat if it comes to that but if it's better to take half the internals out I will just do that.

No I have not tried multiple senders but that's something I could do. I trust the current one though, has worked perfectly for ages and goes up and down with the temp. It's just that the base temp is above what it should be is the issue.

Might go grab a brand new tridpn one from repco and I may be able o take it back if it is the same as I have one of those repco club cars thingys.

Of course I will to begin with, but if it comes to it I'm happy to take it out if it means I can keep skidding.

I was asking for advice about what part to 'gut' to get the best of both, enough restriction to give coolant in the rad time to cool down and to keep the circuit somewhat isolated.

Yes I know that kiwi, I think you need to re read my original post. No matter what temp thermostat I put in it, it still idles at 84deg. The current thermostat I have (65deg) should be regulating the idle temp to 65ish degrees but it's still sitting at 84.

And yes I have properly bled the system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Each province differs a bit but we only do mandatory vehicle inspections here for heavy vehicles (Think Ford F350 and up). Those inspections are done by mechanics that are approved by the government. Besides that, it's a free for all as long as the car looks stock.  I asked because I love seeing how engineering differs from country to country. Here in Canada, all designs must be stamped and signed before they can be brought to fruition. (I.E Bridges, structures, Electrical panels, machines, literally everything shy of a wooden table) This can only be done by a professional engineer or professional engineering technologist. Both are protected titles, but the latter having more of a limited scope in what they can stamp. To become a professional engineer, you must complete a 4-5 year bachelors degree in your field of engineering, be part of an engineering order and undergo 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and mandatory continues education. Same story for engineering technologists, but a 3 year associates degree in some form of engineering technology will suffice. If you do not comply, or pretend you're an engineer or technologist, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails and kills someone (I.E Bridge collapse) Off to jail you go for a very long time, your family will be ridiculed on the news, neighbours will surround your home with pitch forks and your dog will disown you.  Same for specialised trades... Example Electricians must undergo 1.5 years of post high school education, 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and hold proper licences. It's for the best, but then we also wonder why we're so short on engineers and tradesmen haha
    • Not currently, I'm at the school where we teach people to build bridges and other fun things that involve making, or breaking things
    • I have a friend who has used Chequered Tuning and CMS. Went to CMS when Chequered had a long wait time which is kind of the norm (for good reason). Was very happy - I'm pretty sure the very simple thing you're asking will be simple.
    • lol that caught up a year quickly! good to see you on the track again, hoping to do it myself one day
    • Nah he was mega organised, the sort of guy that put (almost) every tool back every day, it made trying to work out where things were up to possible.  My shed needs a swedish death clean, I would have >20 part done jobs, its particularly hard to collect all required parts for a job ahead of time when you can't just pop into a shop and grab things
×
×
  • Create New...