2006 V35 Knock Sensor Fault Code Problem

[nobby]

There is no throttle control relay. I suspect the Autel is having issues reading Japanese.

Sounds like it would be easier to find a mechanic that knows these engines, shame you are too far away for me to help, but I suspect the front wideband O2 sensor is buggered or an injector is blocked.

The obd reader only found knock sensor B1, that was December.

I recon autel is ok as it had it listed in it's memory bank.

as I said been away and hadn't had time to do anything till now.

I did manage to access mil function a couple days ago and came up with the 2 codes, knock (not b1 just knock), and throttle relay.

That said according to pdf manual 2006 version it has a throttle relay but stated in manual it's built into the fuse box ( beside the battery), call it something like epdm or rather.

So trying to get to the bottom of it I removed the box yesterday.

as it very easy to do this,actually made to be removed as a separate unit, unplug wires (noticed some minor pin/plug corrosion residue) and push 2 clips and slide out with no wires attached.

yeah it sounds like alot of mucking around but its alot easier to remove assembly & check over than try and do it under the bonnet.

remove relays etc, laying them out in same pattern on bench.

then remover rear cover.

then front cover simply comes away.

Inside the box assembly there is also a double sided printed circuit board with 4 relays attached to it.

so maybe 1 of these are the throttle control relay, these are not simply unplugged , more pita.

all up 2 problems found.

1) some surface corrosion "copper oxide present" on a couple of pins and plug for lowest wiring plug assembly and on a relay pins

2) there are 6 removable small square "identical" relays, 4 pins, and 1 is testing differently to the other 5.

relays part numbers G8VL-1A4T-v.

testing diagonally opposites 198ohms and 0 ohms, but the 1 suspect faulty is giving readings on both diagonally opposites.

humm getting there slowly

Edited February 18, 2016 by nobby

[scotty nm35]

Looks like your IPDM is flooding, have you popped the bung out from under the battery? they commonly block and cause the compartment to flood.

[scotty nm35]

testing diagonally opposites 198ohms and 0 ohms, but the 1 suspect faulty is giving readings on both diagonally opposites.

Sounds like the relay has water inside it. You may be able to remove the sealed lid and use contact cleaner to disperse it.

[nobby]

Not sure if it's been flooded, it looks a bit to clean for that, I suspect grey importing cleaning procedures.

but that is exactly the sorta fix been searching for.

The relay in question is a sealed type, will have a play with it, it's only epoxy sealed.

opps my mistake I quoted 6 identical it's only 4.

Was hoping jaycar may have 1 but catalog says no.

just finished power testing relays 3 good, 1 bad passing ohms open or closed.

Now replace/cleanup relay.

write down codes, clear em see what happens.asap.

[scotty nm35]

All the V35's and M35's flood, it's only a problem in a storm or driving after one. The compartment fills up from water off the windscreen and doesn't drain fast enough, or at all. Nissan made a bad mistake with the drain design.

Try it out, use the garden hose on the passenger side of the windscreen and post the result.

[scotty nm35]

The relay in question is a sealed type, will have a play with it, it's only epoxy sealed.

opps my mistake I quoted 6 identical it's only 4.

Was hoping jaycar may have 1 but catalog says no.

I may have one, can you post a pic with the part number?

[nobby]

Again Thankyou for your input Scott.

Battery podarea is clean as new now.

I managed to remove suspect relay cover.

Used some MAF cleaner, a quick blow with compressor.

Re tested ok now switching as it should.lol

Car now back together, started up fine.

No mil, or lack of power.

Restarted car 6 more times running through the gears in the car port, all good still.

re-- previous post --Not sure If I want to try restarting whilst driving it's an auto gearbox.

Off to work now.

Did take some pics of it apart, will post up later.

Thanks for the offer of spare part, true gentleman.

cheers.

[nobby]

Pitstop doesn't mean anything.

It's just a resettable oil / filter / wheel kilometre counter. Doesn't mean there is an engine code.

Knock sensor I wouldn't worry about it the car is driving fine. Check the wires to it are intact, have been cases of mice eating the wiring in there.

Reset the fault code, and see if any check engine lights come on.

Thanks for your input also. cheers.

[nobby]

ECU won't lean the mix if knock is detected.. it retards timing and richens the fuel mix, resulting in poor performance and poor economy.

And a thankyou to you also for chipping in. cheers

[nobby]

Got some pics to upload can't find how to do it on this site.

(and I don't save my pics to the net).

Edited February 20, 2016 by nobby

[nobby]

SOME PICS OF IPDM ASSEMBLY

THINK THEY MAY OF BEEN CROPPED DURING UPLOAD.

[nobby]

All good now apart from the dirty relay ( now fixed ),

The other cause of problems was ageing battery.

Battery had low volts after starting the car, it wasn't recovering volts well.

The result, computers were throwing codes.

Not now with new battery.

The new battery is also physically larger 550cca, the old battery was rated new @ 430cca, about 30% increase in cca

After searching sites for battery's, they quoted to suit 550, 400,one was only 350cca !!.

Bosch was the 550 but didn't know of any local sellers.

I decided to see what would fit in the space provided as there was plenty more room over the current 430 cca.

lion 459B, its about 10mm shorter but wider and deeper and fitted fantastic.

I had a spare adjustable battery bracket, swapped it over.

just needed a larger pos+ post clamp, simple r&r.

I also Recon the sound system has more grunt.

A win win situation.

Now that's sorted, the cars for sale, see SAU for sale section if your interested.