Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey so i have googled and searched through the forums quite a bit and would still like a second opinion. For a while my 34 was having coil pack issues, one cylinder not firing occasionally and sounding like a truck/loss of power. The other day i was driving as per normal and all of a sudden under throttle i was losing all power and felt like MASSIVE drag so i pulled over. At this point it was idling fine and would rev through the rev range perfectly but once in first gear id take off normally and after about 2 meters it would have a huge power loss and drag. I managed to get the car home 2 meters at a time as i didn't want to leave it on the street (really bad area) and then had to reverse up my drive way as it was the only way i could get it up there ( too much power loss in first but not in reverse). I let it sit for a bit and now when i start it it starts perfectly and then dies straight out. If i giver it some throttle it is fine but is spitting out black soot and will stall once it hits idle.

After hours of research i came up with the either AFM was not working, vacuum leak or faulty idle switch. So i pulled it apart the AFM and re soldered it and still no good. My question remains is the AFM faulty or is the idle switch faulty? any ideas? :D

Kinda losing my mind haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462964-r34-gtt-wont-idle/
Share on other sites

So were 5 wet?

Was it running than you removed them so they could have gotten wet. Plugs that work will not be wet because they burn the fuel. If it was running rough than you pulled plugs than they could have a chance to get fuel on them on the cylinders that are not firing.

I had one stuffed coil pack and it made my car miss fire intermittently. One spark plug looked a little different in the fouling. Because it was only sometimes it had not changed the plugs appearance a lot. I changed all coil packs as my car has done 185000km and I just bought it so I don't know when they were last changed. Either they have done a great amount of KMs or they have been changed once before as they normally last about 100000km.

sorry for the late reply i have been away. All the other plugs looked perfectly fine as i replaced them maybe 4 months ago or so but one was black and dry none were wet. Just before i went away i found a rather big split in one of the main intake hoses and i have just replaced that but the battery is dead so i have to wait for it to charge to see if it changed anything. :)

So i started her up and she started fine and went to die. Gave a little bit of throttle and she settled on idle so i let her warm up for a bit. Revs through the rev range beautifully but now at idle she sounds like shes missing occasionally so i disconnected each coil pack one by one and it sounded worse every time so the coil packs arent the problem. This problem is unrelated btw it was doing this for a week or so before she died.

Went for a drive and she is pulling harder than she ever has been and my boost gauge was only hitting 7 psi instead of 10? Then i popped a hose that i must not have tightened properly but i lovely lady with a 200 sx came running out of her house with tools so could get it home haha

I know im just a little slow haha :)

I believe all my problems have gone away now after i fixed the boost leak and cleaned the IAC Valve. No weird idle and car has alot more power but kinda feels like it pulls back slightly once it hits boost. Thanks for the advice tho Hadouken was very helpful :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...