Mitch's R33 Ls Track Car Rebuild

[No Crust Racing]

Was a good day, you drove well. I'm keen to see how the Silvia stacks up, maybe you can drive instead and then it will go fast. 

[Mitch_Dubya]

got a few more pics from the Winton Test and Tune from Pace Images

 

[Mitch_Dubya]

On 12/12/2016 at 8:36 AM, ActionDan said:

Was a good day, you drove well. I'm keen to see how the Silvia stacks up, maybe you can drive instead and then it will go fast. 

Thanks man, i still cant let go of the two sections i couldn't get right all day... if only

[Dr. Surge]

isn't the car noseheavy with the ls engine? Nice project

[zebra]

7 minutes ago, Dr. Surge said:

isn't the car noseheavy with the ls engine? Nice project

Ummm

[Mitch_Dubya]

4 hours ago, Dr. Surge said:

isn't the car noseheavy with the ls engine? Nice project

I'm new here,  = trollface, yes?

[Dr. Surge]

9 hours ago, Mitch_Dubya said:

I'm new here,  = trollface, yes?

 had to be this one ^^ nevermind

[Mitch_Dubya]

Calendar isn't out for the local car club events yet but I know the first isn't until late March so I've got a bunch of small jobs I'd like to do before then. The first was cutting the guards out and fitting fender flares so I can get the bigger better rubber back under it.



The fronts are pretty straight forward. I've cut and fit the rear flares but I'll need to take it back out to the farm to cut and weld up the double skinned rear guards


I've also got some near near slotted front rotors and project-mu pads. Towards the end of the Winton test and tune they really dropped away badly, closer inspection showed why.


I'll grab some braided lines while I'm there is case they help at all.
The dirt cheap new front bar I got to replace the one I had, which was quickly falling apart and needing to be taped on in places, doesn't fit well. It looks to be for a 33 gtr as it is too wide by an inch or more. I can either try and flog it off an look for another but I think I'll just hack it up and modify it to work because race car. Either way it'll need to still be able to be removed quickly and easily for transport including the brake ducting. I've got some ideas on how I'll tackle that but I'll see how it looks.
Other less important jobs before march include;
- Modify new seat rails to get the chair lower
- Get the flares, front bar, roof spoiler, bonnet and boot to the painter
- cut through some new headlights I got for airflow to the pod
It won't all be done by then but it's nice to have a goal

[Mitch_Dubya]

Took the car back out to the farm this week. Got the disks and pads swapped out.
Before

After
Old

New

And fitted the braided brake lines all round

Good chance for another flush and kick bleed of the brake fluid.
Cut the guards and welded back together, not pretty but racecar.





I'm thinking about trying the sau motorkhana day in Shepparton next month as first spin for the season

[V28VX37]

Wow that's one interesting slotting and drilling pattern on the rotors, outside the pad area too, never seen that before. I've hope they've been checked for balance afterwards?

[No Crust Racing]

Cut off/remove the backing plates, helps keep them cooler. 

[Mitch_Dubya]

On 11/02/2017 at 2:22 PM, V28VX37 said:

Wow that's one interesting slotting and drilling pattern on the rotors, outside the pad area too, never seen that before. I've hope they've been checked for balance afterwards?

We haven't yet but we will check the balance/runout, is there a reason you'd suspect it'd be out from what you've seen? there was a flake of rust or some shit on the back of one of the rotors which we obviously cleaned up. The guy was selling them cheap after 1,000kms because he apparently got onto a cheap set of Brembos but there could have been another reason. Ive been told RDA rotors bite hard but wear out quickly compared to other brands. im not too worried about them as I didn't pay much for them and i could have used a soft taco and it would be an improvement on what i was running. 

23 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Cut off/remove the backing plates, helps keep them cooler. 

yeh we cut them off the front, I didn't get round to doing the rear but i will eventually. cheers dude

[Mitch_Dubya]

Caution: newby question time!
Anyone got any advice on what would be the next most effective mod for this rig?
Obviously the first thing is seat time
Second, third and fourth is seat time... I get it, I'm working on it. 260rwkw is more than I know what to do with
I believe I've got a standard diff, welded, which should cost me time via less drive out of the corners yes? I don't know much about it but I'm looking at $800 - $1200 for a mechanical 2 way? Any better options? Thoughts or advice? Not worth it at this stage?
The massive neg camber strikes me as another limiting factor. It's got extended lcas, cut and shut outside of the tension rod etc. so replacing with standard should be straight forward and cheap. Currently is got around -7deg and 3 - 3.5 would be ideal. Should I go standard or slightly less extended? Is that going to make a difference at all. The old man doesn't seem to think it's worth the effort.
This is turn 3 at Winton

It look like it still hasn't got the outside wheel flat.
I'm obviously going to chew tires out quicker so I've been sticking to cheap shit/2nd hand tires for now.
This car will do equal parts drift/motorkhana and grip/hill climb ideally so I was reluctant to get rid of all the camber and lose some sideways stability I've got. Again, thoughts? Suggestions?
What's the you say? Shut up and get some more seat time?!?
Thanks

[Mitch_Dubya]

Season opener on Sunday and as usual, finished off the day before, just in time. Fender flares done, left one side black, one side white. Not sure what I prefer

Experimented with some PVC brake ducts. Logic has never given me brake fade before so won't really know if it works until I get back to Winton.



Tidied up the front back and reworked the quick release mounting system. Decided against welding up a cage ourself so sold the half cage, keeping an eye out for a cheap full bolt in. New headlights, cut for cold air intake

And a bush mechanic style air box (bucket)



First session out on sunday, took it easy to feel out and bed the new brakes, warm the tires. I kept the nankangs on the back with the intention of swapping them out for Nittos to get a comparison. Could tell instantly that they're loose as f**k, for some reason a lot more noticeably on the shorter track. No clean lap but still matched the pb straight up. Very excite!
Lined up for second session and had fuel problems straight away, straight into the pits. Took us all day to sort, intermittent issue with the earthing of the in take pump. Seems to supply constant power and earth as required, I believe for a high/low flow pump from the stock Nissan wiring. Finally sorted at the end of the day, snuck in with another group an got a full 8min session with little traffic. Rear end is still wild (combination of sub par semis and 0 toe in). Lowered the pb by 2 secs and put the Nittos on in case I snuck into the top 10 shootout. Alas, with retirements, missed out by 0.17s which could have lifted me as high as P5-7 over all.
Was disappointed to not get the seat time I've been itching for but could have been worse. Still scope for a lot more improvement next time, albeit, months away before we're back at logic. May sneak back to Winton for another t and t before then

[No Crust Racing]

I'm gonna go with White flares. 

Didn't like that Ag Pipe for brake ducts? 

Still looks like eleventy degrees front camber, have you fiddled with that yet?

Those Nankangs are a death trap. 

Nice work on PB

[Mitch_Dubya]

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

I'm gonna go with White flares. 

Didn't like that Ag Pipe for brake ducts? 

Still looks like eleventy degrees front camber, have you fiddled with that yet?

Those Nankangs are a death trap. 

Nice work on PB

Yeh i think the white will look even better when i paint the bonnet and boot too.

I liked the agi pipe but if the PVC works out it should give significantly more airflow but less direct, was thinking of using a combination. 

I've got adjustable arms at the top so i could dial some out and get another alignment but i haven't played with it yet. I've got some stock LCAs there but i don't have much of an idea what I'm doing.

I was surprised with the Nankangs considering how little trouble i thought i was having at Winton with longer faster corners. We'll have to head back for another T&T soon so i can compare to some other rubber.

 

[No Crust Racing]

Paint my car while you're at it, white is fine k thx. 

I noticed that ag pipe was much bigger, better idea on a heavier car. 

There's not much to it, fit different LCA's, see what camber you end up with. Camber is easy to do with string line or the guy I took the GTR to was only 70 bucks for a full alignment, he'll be doing the Silvia too. 

After going in Brendan's car with those Nankangs are fearing for my safety... never again  

I've got all my stuff for the Sil now so will put it back together then T&T time I think. 

 

[Mitch_Dubya]

On 29/03/2017 at 1:21 PM, ActionDan said:

Paint my car while you're at it, white is fine k thx. 

I noticed that ag pipe was much bigger, better idea on a heavier car. 

There's not much to it, fit different LCA's, see what camber you end up with. Camber is easy to do with string line or the guy I took the GTR to was only 70 bucks for a full alignment, he'll be doing the Silvia too. 

After going in Brendan's car with those Nankangs are fearing for my safety... never again  

I've got all my stuff for the Sil now so will put it back together then T&T time I think. 

 

The PVC we used should give roughly three times the air flow. Was thinking of having a small piece of agi pipe mounted inside end of the PVC and directing air either to the centre of the hub or directly onto the disk, just after the caliper. Who's your alignment guy? would like to have that sorted before round 2 at the end of the month

[No Crust Racing]

Remember there's such thing as too much cooling depending on the pad and rotor combo.

You want to aim it at the centre of the rotor as that's where it naturally draws air from, try not to aim at the disc surface as you don't want different surface temps.

Just aiming it generally at the centre will be enough.

Nick at tyrepower across from the plaza. I'll give you his details on FB.

When is next round? Proper sprint?

[Mitch_Dubya]

Thanks man, ill try an get those lcas swapped out an give him a buzz.

I've still got five pairs of rims with semis in varying condition, ill churn through a few of those and then i can look at finally putting some decent rubber under it.

Lap Dash in Wilby on the 30th of April, Lap Dash at Logic 4th of June and BP Sprint at Winton with the car club 24th of June, Ill drive them all *weather permitting