Jump to content
SAU Community

Mitch's R33 Ls Track Car Rebuild


Mitch_Dubya
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cheers Amir, good to hear.

I finally got to lay a spanner on the car today, albeit with my mischievous 18 month old son 'helping'. While I was honeymooning over seas the old fella got a bit of work done.

post-141265-14586538052709_thumb.jpg

Tranny rebuilt, newish clutch and all back together

Subframe/front end of blue car removed

post-141265-14586539086898_thumb.jpg

Steering column/box swapped

post-141265-14586539732775_thumb.jpg

Brakes, clutch, pedals, wiring loom all swapped

We soon had the subframe on the white one (finding more than half the bolts were finger tight at best). It should drive/steer 100% better than before.

post-141265-14586541056752_thumb.jpg

After lunch we had other things to get done on the farm but late arvo we decided it was time to see if out trans tunnel and chassis rail 'massaging' was on the money.

post-141265-14586543522528_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14586543678473_thumb.jpg

So up and in she goes....

post-141265-14586544329366_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14586544566997_thumb.jpg

post-141265-1458654477918_thumb.jpg

Like a glove.....

Happy we've got better clearance for the rhs extractors and steering and the engine is now clearing the clutch master cylinder much better as well. We wrapped extra heat wrap where the extractors pass the steering box as well. Happy to see progress although with lap dash 2 only 12 days away I'm losing hope fast. I'll get a full day at it Thursday without Oscars help so I think I'll know that night if I need to bother entering. The only car part I could find in Bali was a cheap rip off momo deep dish wheel

post-141265-14586554081077_thumb.jpg

List of things to get it finished enough to race:

Fit trans cross member

Swap whole rear subframe/diff/fuel tank/tail shaft etc.

Fit exhaust

Fit radiator

Swap surge tank

Fit battery

Plug in/finalise wiring loom

Fit/attach all engine acc. Fuel, power steering etc.

Mount Ecu

Fit seat

Fit boot lid

Fit bonnet

Rough in and wire oil pres, water temp

Turn the key and see what happens.... I've got no hope

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It'll be ready by 4th of April..... 2017

Got a few good hours on it today, trans cross member fitted and final adjustments to engine position all sorted. Gear selector fitted up and feels 100% better and more direct than before.

Tractor tube cut to cover the hole, want to make the cabin more air tight

post-141265-14588051469509_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14588051703348_thumb.jpg

A little over engineered but race car

post-141265-14588052433049_thumb.jpg

Ripped a bunch of plastic, seat belts, hood lining etc. Any weight save was put straight but in via tek screws, silicone and grommets.

Made a good start swapping the wiring loom and doing it in a much more efficient and sensible way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Getting close now.

Engine mostly wired in

post-141265-14602813723183_thumb.jpg

Dash made up with a few switches and gauges wired and mounted

post-141265-14602814182795_thumb.jpg

Stripped the last of the required parts from the old 33.

post-141265-14602815079789_thumb.jpg

One last tank slapper

post-141265-14602815327895_thumb.jpg

May she rust in peace

post-141265-1460281580659_thumb.jpg

Rear subframe ready to go in. The fuel tank out of the blue one had a couple of holes accidentally drilled into it at some point so made sure they were properly fixed.

post-141265-14602817546441_thumb.jpg

Gonna have to roll some guards

post-141265-14602818015383_thumb.jpg

Mounted the surge and pump

post-141265-14602818264331_thumb.jpg

And the fuel pressure reg

post-141265-14602818530303_thumb.jpg

Rear subframe in, only took minutes

post-141265-14602820059624_thumb.jpg

Got a replacement passenger door and guard, just gotta remove some plastidip

post-141265-14602820633822_thumb.jpg

Home stretch now;

Mount ecu

Seats and harnesses

Exhaust

Bonnet

Boot and wing

Tacho and shift light

Front bar and headlights

Battery isolator and start button

See if it starts

Bleed brakes and clutch

Wheel align

Probably a bunch of other stuff

Do many skids

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

progress report:

brakes have been bled, clutch bled.

Exhaust and tailshaft in

wheel on, back on her feet

fuelled and and no leaks

It came with a set of 17's that had stretched tires and rolled guards. I had previously tried to fit some 235 semis but it wouldn't clear at the front. I've lined up a guard roller when the car is back in town but I also picked up some cheap 18x9's with 38 positive offset. First impression, they look to clear a lot better

post-141265-1461626757782_thumb.jpg

I have another set of ugly arse tri-spokes that are 17' and had planned on keeping all my wheels the same size but my work have stacks of 2nd hand rubber coming off cars that still have a heap of tread, all free. Most cars with good quality rubber are 18' plus so it made sense to grab the bigger wheels.

post-141265-14616270032152_thumb.jpg

First thing I did was raided the tire pile for some banglops and Bridgestone Potenzas which will all go up in smoke on an upcoming motorkhana day. If I find a good grippy set they may make a lap dash day.

post-141265-14616271460791_thumb.jpg

So to get it started:

mount ECU and plug in

wire in battery isolator

working on mounting the seats on functioning rails and mounting them up

Wheel align

battery in and hope for the best

once its running again I might get it back in town and work through the last of non-essentials

- mount tow strap (coz no skills)

- tidy up switch panel for fuel pumps, ignition and starter button etc

- roll guards

- Make up some door cards

- cover holes in parcel tray etc.

- fab some door handle, window switch etc

- fit new pass door, mirror, lock barrel and guard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm also toying with the idea of plastic fender flares and painting them white. It looks awesome on some cars and on others it looks shit....

Thumbs up

post-141265-14616283581903_thumb.jpg

Not so much

post-141265-14616284084649_thumb.jpg

Anyone want to share an opinion?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh I'd read his thread before, was kinda the reason I was worried about putting some on. Something about them looks goofy to me (no offence intended if that guy is reading). I think it's the shape of his, and not having skirts that continue the shape or something. I'll have to get my hands on some and dummy them up on the car before I cut away the guards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had one of those 'two steps forward, five steps back' days. Looks more an more like a car again but we've hit a snag with the wiring.

post-141265-14620985367169_thumb.jpg

It'll crank over and it's getting fuel but won't fire. Old man thinks we've got something wrong with the wiring of the crank angle sensor. A knock on effect from the messy ball of wiring we were dealing with from the old shell. Took the seat rails apart to see if we could get them adjustable again, bigger job than we'd anticipated but it's now been rebuilt, much stronger than before. It's also the best part of an inch higher but I'm not sure if I prefer it that way, time will tell.

post-141265-14620990689764_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14620988212702_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14620988352093_thumb.jpg

Plastic flush mount boot lid has been fitted

post-141265-14620988693098_thumb.jpg

Headlights fitted as well

post-141265-14620989178595_thumb.jpg

New wheels aren't gonna fit without flares and/or stretched tires

post-141265-14620989706045_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14620990933417_thumb.jpg

Hoping a better wiring diagram will help, if not I've got an auto elec mate who's done a few different LS swaps who might have to come in an save the day. Don't know if it'll be at the logic skid day, don't know if I care right now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Wired in battery isolator

Mounted the monster wing on the fibreglass boot. Fingers crossed it doesn't rip off

post-141265-14641709612417_thumb.jpg

In to work for a 4 wheel wheel alignment

post-141265-14641710212234_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14641710417901_thumb.jpg

I'm working on making the front bar a quick release with locating bolts at the side and tie downs and rubber rings. Just need to bolt the harness in an a quick service and it should be right for a shake down skid on June 5th

After that, I'll look at tow straps, mounting and wiring in a tacho, fit up some new 2nd hand semi slicks I bought today and roll the guards

post-141265-14641714140892_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14641714368326_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.
    • yeah pretty much, stopped playing after lightfall, couldnt be bothered with the final shape...  ran that game into the ground for years... bit of a shame.. the  story was awesome. was playing a lot of trials but the hackers became tooo much, ruined the game.  
    • This is why you don't get invited to press events.         Kodi
    • For example, you’ll need this approval if: you’re a car enthusiast looking to import a specialist vehicle or an older car you want to bring your vehicle with you when you move to Australia you manufacture or import special purpose vehicles or a small number of trailers each year.       Tutuapp 9Apps
    • I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance
×
×
  • Create New...