Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought my R34 two days ago, it runs good and I love it. I noticed the previous owner had a APEXi ECV exhaust control valve fitted to the exhaust and control lever next to the hand break. I asked him about it and he said he hasn't connected it up. But the next day I looked under neath the car and saw it is connected but the butterfly valve isn't moving. That's not why I'm here though. I saw that the valve is located in the centre of the car's exhaust pipe. Normally they would be fitted at the end of the bore right? Have a look at the pics:

5_zps3gfzf8sr.jpg

1_zpsaijbcrjm.jpg

2_zps9yzy1hen.jpg

From the other side (passenger side)

3_zpsldvshtx7.jpg

exhaust_zpscm1oc12z.jpg

My concern is if that butterfly valve were to close, the exhaust fumes have no were to go. Usually they fit these control valves onto the end of the aftermarket exhaust and have an extra hole behind the valve so when it closes the fumes are forced into that opening and will travel down the length of the muffler usually 3 times before it exits (so I've heard) and that makes the muffler silent. Does anyone about these things? Does that setup look right? I'm planning on making the valve work so it will be handy to use for when I'm starting my car at 5am in the morning so I don't wake everyone up in the neighborhood, or if a bored cop tries to follow me.

Edited by Joni Boi

The valve is never fully shut, also doesn't matter where it sits.

Less exhaust flow means less noise.

Oohh really? I thought it would shut it completely

Yeah, I'm thinking of taking it apart and see whats what. Just seems odd why it would be located there, that's why I'm asking if anyone has seen this before.

My concern is if that butterfly valve were to close, the exhaust fumes have no were to go. Usually they fit these control valves onto the end of the aftermarket exhaust and have an extra hole behind the valve so when it closes the fumes are forced into that opening and will travel down the length of the muffler usually 3 times before it exits (so I've heard) and that makes the muffler silent.

What you're describing/expecting here is something like the varex muffler (as below), what you've got is just a butterfly valve in the pipe, which should have a mechanical way of stopping it from being completely shut. The only reason I can think of placement would have an impact is if the valve couldn't handle the heat being closer to the turbo than say the muffler which it's had a split second to cool??

varex_Settings.jpg

I bet you'll find the valve plate is either limited such that it can't fully close as John suggested

OR the plate has a heap of small holes to restrict the gas flow/noise.

A bit like the sheet of holey metal we'd slip in the cat flange joint to instantly lose those dB.

What you're describing/expecting here is something like the varex muffler (as below)

varex_Settings.jpg

That's exactly what I had in mind. I've never dealt with these things before, that's why it was odd to me.

what you've got is just a butterfly valve in the pipe, which should have a mechanical way of stopping it from being completely shut.

Yeah must that. Thanks guys :biggrin:

Edited by Joni Boi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...