Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 14/10/2020 at 11:52 AM, Lithium said:

So far the only "modern" twins setup that I've seen which has generated a result which gets one thinking is the PMC/Integrated Motorsport R34 GT-R which makes >1100hp @ crank on G25 660s.  It's laggy as hell, but has a wide (like 6000-10000rpm?) power delivery so there is a bit of a swings and roundabouts thing going on there - you would NOT use that for what most are looking for with twins, not least because it's not stock location but instead some wild fabrication involved.  I don't expect there to be any major development with stock location twins as turbo tech isn't really the primary hold up, it's mainly packaging limitations imho... which is a lot of why I'm so pro-single on an RB.


BTW, this thread is hilarious to look back over.

Yeah, I've seen that and had the occasional chat with Pete about it. Big set up that's built for purpose. 

I would be interested to see the latest Gen 2 GTX 2860's set up on a 2.8, I think that would be about as modern as it gets currently. 

 

16 hours ago, Torque Curve said:

Yeah, I've seen that and had the occasional chat with Pete about it. Big set up that's built for purpose. 

I would be interested to see the latest Gen 2 GTX 2860's set up on a 2.8, I think that would be about as modern as it gets currently. 

 

RacePace did a Gen 1 GTX2860 on a 2.8 with E85. It made 421wkw at 20/21psi which was a pretty decent result. 

I ran out of turbo on my -5's at 419wkw with my 2.8 on 98RON. 

 

On 26/10/2020 at 10:53 AM, GDZ32 said:

RacePace did a Gen 1 GTX2860 on a 2.8 with E85. It made 421wkw at 20/21psi which was a pretty decent result. 

I ran out of turbo on my -5's at 419wkw with my 2.8 on 98RON. 

 

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

Edited by Torque Curve
On 10/27/2020 at 4:09 PM, Torque Curve said:

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

American dyno though so can only take those results when they come with a pinch of salt..

  • Like 1
On 27/10/2020 at 4:39 PM, Torque Curve said:

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

They all claim to have 1 million percent more flow and made more power on made up dyno graphs, by whoever is building the turbos, but hardly ever translate into real world gains. I've seen it so many times. Then again a lot of people just care about a higher number on their dyno graph

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...