Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 14/10/2020 at 11:52 AM, Lithium said:

So far the only "modern" twins setup that I've seen which has generated a result which gets one thinking is the PMC/Integrated Motorsport R34 GT-R which makes >1100hp @ crank on G25 660s.  It's laggy as hell, but has a wide (like 6000-10000rpm?) power delivery so there is a bit of a swings and roundabouts thing going on there - you would NOT use that for what most are looking for with twins, not least because it's not stock location but instead some wild fabrication involved.  I don't expect there to be any major development with stock location twins as turbo tech isn't really the primary hold up, it's mainly packaging limitations imho... which is a lot of why I'm so pro-single on an RB.


BTW, this thread is hilarious to look back over.

Yeah, I've seen that and had the occasional chat with Pete about it. Big set up that's built for purpose. 

I would be interested to see the latest Gen 2 GTX 2860's set up on a 2.8, I think that would be about as modern as it gets currently. 

 

16 hours ago, Torque Curve said:

Yeah, I've seen that and had the occasional chat with Pete about it. Big set up that's built for purpose. 

I would be interested to see the latest Gen 2 GTX 2860's set up on a 2.8, I think that would be about as modern as it gets currently. 

 

RacePace did a Gen 1 GTX2860 on a 2.8 with E85. It made 421wkw at 20/21psi which was a pretty decent result. 

I ran out of turbo on my -5's at 419wkw with my 2.8 on 98RON. 

 

On 26/10/2020 at 10:53 AM, GDZ32 said:

RacePace did a Gen 1 GTX2860 on a 2.8 with E85. It made 421wkw at 20/21psi which was a pretty decent result. 

I ran out of turbo on my -5's at 419wkw with my 2.8 on 98RON. 

 

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

Edited by Torque Curve
On 10/27/2020 at 4:09 PM, Torque Curve said:

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

American dyno though so can only take those results when they come with a pinch of salt..

  • Like 1
On 27/10/2020 at 4:39 PM, Torque Curve said:

The current Gen 2q's seem to have more grunt to them and would seem to easily surpass the previous setups that have been tried (to varying levels of success. I know that AdamLZ on the youtube's has a set to go onto the R34 which is in the build so will be good to see the outcome there.

They all claim to have 1 million percent more flow and made more power on made up dyno graphs, by whoever is building the turbos, but hardly ever translate into real world gains. I've seen it so many times. Then again a lot of people just care about a higher number on their dyno graph

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...