Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Just checking in for an update on how she's running now? Ie with new fuel pump etc if you have that installed now.

Shrugs......maybe 0w40 haha, I'll double check. I have not paid the bills as car is going back in for fuel pump change.

Just had the pump installed a few days ago. So far starting the car has been without blip or any other issues. The old pump looks fine though.

The stutter is still there when I drive out, no luck with that one still. Reluctant to try the replacing VTC cover and solenoid cleaning since it's a big job. Any other ideas?

Is the stuttering still reduced running edge 0w40? Also does it still only happen in the first couple minutes of warm up? If so just keep using the castrol oil I guess. It used to happen to mine only below 2k rpm, so maybe try to drive just a little over 2k until the engine warms up?

You can force the exhaust valve timing to relearn with Nissan consult III software apparently, and there is also an android app called NDSIII that can do this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nissandatascan.ndatascaniii&hl=en

I found the ebay bluetooth OBDII adapters do not work with NDSIII, but I found one OBDII adapter from jaycar works well with NDSIII:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Automotive-%26-Mobile-Security/Car-Alarms,-Protection-%26-Accessories/Tracking-Fleet-Monitoring/READER-OBD2-BLUETOOTH-4-0-ENGINE-CODE/p/PP2145

Final option before replacing VCT covers could be to get a tune to delay the time/temp until the VCT starts operating

hope that helps

I've done the exhaust valve timing relearn.

The 0w40 delays the stutter timing - I am guessing that the stutter is happening at a certain temp that the VCT is trying to operate but is not hot enough to. Since the oil takes a bit longer to heat up and by the usual time I am already on the road I don't see it as much. What I did try was instead of warming up for the usual 2-3mins in summer, I did a 4-5mins warm up and the stutter came right away. I could be wrong, but this is just my observation. Scotty is scratching his head wondering why would the oil make a difference to the VCT hahaha.....

I guess the tune option might be the last thing to do now. I'll see. The shop that did my UpRev tune is not being too helpful at the moment. I've asked for the ROM multiple times and I am either ignored or getting a reply with we will send it shortly.

  • Like 1

Even if it is the VCT kicking in, why would that cause a stutter? Stuttering is likely running lean, it might be worth getting a wideband on it during this warm up period to see what is happening.

If that's the case a simple tune would fix it.

I can only recite what I've read elsewhere regarding what people think is this issue. But the community agreed cause is that the VCT sensor isn't overly accurate. At low temperatures especially, the sensor is then setting the cams in the wrong place causing to much overlap at low rpm where overlap is not wanted/needed. And that is where the stutter comes from - low compression due to overlap, not fuel or spark issues.

So the overall solution here *might* be to delay the time the VCT's kick in at (giving the engine a chance to warm up a bit more first) - and I think this is what the oem software update does also.

Even if it is the VCT kicking in, why would that cause a stutter? Stuttering is likely running lean, it might be worth getting a wideband on it during this warm up period to see what is happening.

If that's the case a simple tune would fix it.

Edited by Rufus007

I can only recite what I've read elsewhere regarding what people think is this issue. But the community agreed cause is that the VCT sensor isn't overly accurate. At low temperatures especially, the sensor is then setting the cams in the wrong place causing to much overlap at low rpm where overlap is not wanted/needed. And that is where the stutter comes from - low compression due to overlap, not fuel or spark issues.

So the overall solution here *might* be to delay the time the VCT's kick in at (giving the engine a chance to warm up a bit more first) - and I think this is what the oem software update does also.

The cam sensor is extremely accurate, but the cams have a self learn function which may need to be re-learnt for local conditions. Unfortunately they change their required PWM depending on oil viscosity/temp.

The delay for cam actuation is only to get the oil to operating temp, but it runs off the water temp, and there is a delay before the oil reaches the same temp as the water. I suspect this is where there might be an issue.

I always thought this issue was quite obviously VCT related though, like I initially posted. I also agree about the water temp vs oil temp disparity. I have previously bookmarked something along these lines also: (look at 13th post)

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/64601-my-350z-hates-being-serviced-help/

If not inaccurate VCT control and setting, what do you think is causing the stutter then?

The cam sensor is extremely accurate, but the cams have a self learn function which may need to be re-learnt for local conditions. Unfortunately they change their required PWM depending on oil viscosity/temp.

The delay for cam actuation is only to get the oil to operating temp, but it runs off the water temp, and there is a delay before the oil reaches the same temp as the water. I suspect this is where there might be an issue.

Edited by Rufus007

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

  • Like 1

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

So when are you visiting WA? =D you'll have access to accommodation and prob a workshop =P

So if the VCT angle sensor is accurate, do you then think the wrong VCT timing is being caused by the VCT actuators? If so maybe that's what the revised VCT actuator covers might address?

Judging by the lack of response so far this doesn't seem to be a large issue, and as I mentioned mine was sorted just by changing the engine oil to castrol edge.

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning.

How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter baskets in the tops of the injectors? Just remember the wideband isn't accurate until the engine is up to operating temp either, so the engine is running off a base tune from when it was new.

I can only assume this stuttering is on a few cars? If it was VCT angles it would likely be on all of this model, not a couple. I would need to see one to diagnose further, but perhaps running it up on cold start on a Dyno might give you some more information, while logging the factory ecu signal outputs and o2 from the tailpipe with a hot Wo2 sensor.

I have seen a few people with 350z series ii having this issue as they have the HR engine as well. I don't know many of them but the few I know of have mentioned it. Specific to just the 35HR engine.

Edited by colin.ssc

I think there was some early vq37vhr affected also

I have seen a few people with 350z series ii having this issue as they have the HR engine as well. I don't know many of them but the few I know of have mentioned it. Specific to just the 35HR engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
×
×
  • Create New...