Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump / Injector / Coil Pack Issues

colin.ssc
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

KiwiRS4T
KiwiRS4T

Be sure to do one at a time so you know what fixed it. And if you need a new pump forget about the OEM unit you can get a better one cheaper from Scotty: scotty nm35

colin.ssc
colin.ssc

I've done the exhaust valve timing relearn. The 0w40 delays the stutter timing - I am guessing that the stutter is happening at a certain temp that the VCT is trying to operate but is not hot enough

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

The VCT won't be making the stutter, it will likely be mixture related, possibly caused by the VCT positioning. How many of you have checked or changed your fuel filter? or changed the filter basket

Posted Images

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
Posted

Got it from ebay.  If you type 'consult 3' into search (without 'nissan') its the first one in the results, seller is chinacardiag.  That was the highest rated seller with the best price.  Actually it arrived today, I just need to pick up a chinese to Oz power adapter this weekend before I can use it now.  Have installed consult 3 on to the WinXP virtual machine and that runs fine so looking forward to getting it all up and running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
Posted

VTC relearn didn't fix the problem 100%, but it helped significantly!  Out of the last 7 cold starts, I've had 3 with no stutter, and 4 with minor stutter.  Still using Edge 5w30 which stutters worse then Edge 5w40.  My plan here is to do the VTC relearn when oil temp is approx 60 deg C instead of at full temp like I did last time at around 90 deg C.  Then after a few more thousand kms drop some Edge 0w40 back in and see how that goes.  Might be able to help people around Brisbane out with the consult 3 hardware if needed also.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
Posted

For now I'm going to say don't bother with the knockoff consult 3... The results are inconsistent so I'm not going to chalk this up as a fix.  It also can't flash software updates and do a lot of what a real consult can do, plus it freezes the consult 3 program often, so can take a few goes to do any maintenance operations.  What it did help was balance the exhaust bank timing:  Bank 2 was always 0.5 less then Bank 1 (I don't know if this is degrees or another measurement), but now is fairly even since the relearn.  Monitored using NDSIII, which by the way has a Exh relearn button that doesn't work for me.

What I did notice just recently was that everytime the engine stutters, the 'Exh/V Timb1 & Exh/V Timb2' in NDSIII spikes by about 20 (degrees?) before settling back to normal.  Not sure how I missed this before, and is still happening since the relearn.  Definitely something going on here, and I'll look at this further.

I've downloaded a shittone of reprogramming files, and I'll take my time looking through which ones could work work if using a real consult 3 computer.  Of course, my testicles would have to grow 10 fold in size before I would feel comfortable flashing any ECU files myself, but still worth checking out.  (wonder if Nissan would rent out a consult 3 machine without leaving the building?)

I think Berni has the best idea for now about changing the engine oil temp with a resistor, even just 10% would probably help.  So much to do sigh

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So over the week I've changed my exhaust cam phasing to zero. Stutter and hesitation are now gone. However this would be a temporary fix at best. Not too sure where to go from here. Looks like a VCT issue....ideas, suggestions, thoughts?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
Posted
On 11/21/2016 at 10:22 AM, colin.ssc said:

So over the week I've changed my exhaust cam phasing to zero. Stutter and hesitation are now gone. However this would be a temporary fix at best. Not too sure where to go from here. Looks like a VCT issue....ideas, suggestions, thoughts?

 

Good to have a confirmation on what we thought it was anyway.  Obviously will loose power / economy leaving it set at zero.  I still think a small resister to lower the oil temp reading will be the best way to go (given difficulty to get software update).  I'm happy to experiment and find the right resistor, I think about 10% change will do it.  I don't want to remove oil temp sensor in car to throw in a pot of boiling water.  So if anyone wants to donate towards this experiment for a possible solution we could split the $150 for a test oil temp sender.  Got the price from local Nissan dealer.

It will be important to remember that limp mode will come on slightly higher will this mod, but will only affect if racing etc and not normal driving.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have made contact with a tuner in UK who had posted on the 350z site. They said this "We see a problem on these car mostly at part throttle which is caused by the exhaust cam control issue , basically the PID (closed loop) is to aggressive and causes the cam to move to far causes a stutter it could cause the same issue at cold warm up I presume if it is using the same part of the exhaust cam map.


We basically smooth the exhaust cam control around this area when we tune with the Uprev software sorts the stutter out ever time , no parts need changing."

Which is where I'm at now. In feb I will be looking to do a tune via email with them to see if it works. Issue here is - it'll cost me 150 pounds. Half up front. Half after. I don't know if it'll work which is why I'm hesitating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
Posted (edited)

So do they just edit the full temp map to reduce exh timing at light throttle (maybe low rpm also)?  If so, are you able to do this yourself?  In a similar way you set everything to zero, but just back the numbers off a bit instead?

I spoke with some tuning places in Brisbane, but they all told me the same thing, they don't have the ability to simply raise the oil temp threshold for when exh timing kicks in (which is what the Nissan update does apparently) 

Edited by Rufus007
add info
Link to comment
Share on other sites
colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I think they do it so that you still get torque and fuel economy throughout regardless of temp. By zeroing out the exhaust cam phasing, it means 0 regardless of temp or rpms. Losing the ability. 

Thinking back at the other thread on SAU where the guy got techline to update the firmware, I'm gonna take a stab and say that's what they did...change the degree of exhaust cam phasing to not as aggressive as per above which stops the stutter.

I will probably bite the bullet and do it, just need to sort a few things out on the car before letting them tune it. 

Edited by colin.ssc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Leigh_Mack
      Hello, Newbie, anyone know my 32's history?

      By Leigh_Mack · Posted

      Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
    • sonicii
      2020 Nissan Skyline 400R V37/Infiniti Q50 RS insurance in NSW

      By sonicii · Posted

      As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • araiko
      Importing from the US into W.A - 15 yo old car

      By araiko · Posted

      loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • DraftySquash
      Question about R34 GTT A/T Solenoids

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
×
×
  • Create New...