Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Brake Pads Without Removing Calipers? How To Compress Pistons?

V28VX37
 Share

Recommended Posts

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

This is a really basic question but I can't find a clear answer: Is there a good way to change front brake pads without removing calipers?

I read somewhere to turn old pad sideways and lever against the disc using it. I've tried this but it's still really hard going, the pistons are really tight.

I have removed the brake fluid reservoir top too.

Any tips on how to do this easier? Do I need a special tool?

The car is an R34 GTT with the standard Sumitomo calipers.

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

  • Like 1
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

G clamp. Leave 1 pad in and use clamp to compress 2 pistons, then put the pad on the 2 pistons in the other side of caliper and repeat. Done.
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted (edited)

Use the ring end of a spanner bigger than the ID of the piston, say 19mm? Lever it carefully against the rotor with the ring end resting inside the piston and will push it in without issue, i have found.

Edited by hardsteppa
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, looks like a combination of old pads, flat steel, spanners etc did it. Would have been quicker to just take the calipers off :)

I have ordered the tool Trex posted above to see if it saves some hassle next time.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats is seriously a waste of money, a screwdriver or spanner is all ive ever used on all cars

Hehe yeah it's pretty basic ... however if it saves me an hour next time it'll be worth the $25 :)

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

  • Like 1
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

I reckon that tool will take longer than a screw driver

Ok ppl with your fancy screwdrivers, do you just lever off the disc to push the pistons in? Or chuck something in between?

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Use a lever under the old pad to push the pistons back. Pull out one pad so you have some room, it will allow the rotor to have small amount of movement as well

dermy Collaborator

dermy

Posted
Posted

https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/kincrome-4-in-1-brake-pad-spreader-k8165.html?gdftrk=gdfV26854_a_7c442_a_7c1200_a_7c93871&gclid=CKX8qaP2ossCFQx9vQodP0AHJA

You could use this and not have to remove the caliper. But like everyones said i just lever with e screw driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • MBS206
      My BMW 335i

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • Rezz
      OEM Soko: Japanese business supplying Automotive items from Japan - Freebie inside!

      By Rezz · Posted

      February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...