Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Brake Pads Without Removing Calipers? How To Compress Pistons?

V28VX37
 Share

Recommended Posts

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

This is a really basic question but I can't find a clear answer: Is there a good way to change front brake pads without removing calipers?

I read somewhere to turn old pad sideways and lever against the disc using it. I've tried this but it's still really hard going, the pistons are really tight.

I have removed the brake fluid reservoir top too.

Any tips on how to do this easier? Do I need a special tool?

The car is an R34 GTT with the standard Sumitomo calipers.

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

  • Like 1
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 24/02/2016 at 10:22 AM, Trex said:

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted
  On 24/02/2016 at 10:57 AM, V28VX37 said:

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

G clamp. Leave 1 pad in and use clamp to compress 2 pistons, then put the pad on the 2 pistons in the other side of caliper and repeat. Done.
hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted (edited)

Use the ring end of a spanner bigger than the ID of the piston, say 19mm? Lever it carefully against the rotor with the ring end resting inside the piston and will push it in without issue, i have found.

Edited by hardsteppa
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, looks like a combination of old pads, flat steel, spanners etc did it. Would have been quicker to just take the calipers off :)

I have ordered the tool Trex posted above to see if it saves some hassle next time.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 01/03/2016 at 11:39 AM, 75coupe said:

Thats is seriously a waste of money, a screwdriver or spanner is all ive ever used on all cars

Hehe yeah it's pretty basic ... however if it saves me an hour next time it'll be worth the $25 :)

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

  • Like 1
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  On 01/03/2016 at 9:20 PM, 75coupe said:

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

  On 02/03/2016 at 7:43 AM, Hadouken said:

I reckon that tool will take longer than a screw driver

Ok ppl with your fancy screwdrivers, do you just lever off the disc to push the pistons in? Or chuck something in between?

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

Use a lever under the old pad to push the pistons back. Pull out one pad so you have some room, it will allow the rotor to have small amount of movement as well

dermy Collaborator

dermy

Posted
Posted

https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/kincrome-4-in-1-brake-pad-spreader-k8165.html?gdftrk=gdfV26854_a_7c442_a_7c1200_a_7c93871&gclid=CKX8qaP2ossCFQx9vQodP0AHJA

You could use this and not have to remove the caliper. But like everyones said i just lever with e screw driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      me too wasnt real happy and cost me a penny or 2 to replace
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      But there's the archetype for the name plate! Here's my view on that stupid TÜV ruleset. Buy a brand name aftermarket piece of equipment. In this case, the Mines front pipe we're talking about. Get it TÜV certified on the car. Damage the underside of it, say on a speed bump. Cut out the damaged section, replace with fresh metal. (For the sake of the argument only), continue doing that to the whole pipe until it is all gone, replaced with new metal. Is this grandfather's axe still the same front pipe? The design hasn't changed (much). The pipe walls are in the same places. The flanges are in the same places. It is functionally identical. How does this differ from a pipe that is ever so slightly different in fabrication (ie the number of welds in it, a few mm here and there in terms of where the pipes run, are joined, etc)? Anyone with 0.5% of a brain can see that there is absolutely no way that the performance (power, environmental aspects, noise, etc etc) of it can be any different than the genuine Mines pipe. Maybe even Mines made 2 versions of this design, with the same differences. How would anyone (say a TÜV inspector) ever be able to differentiate between them? And yet, they are so bloody anally retentive about this stuff. Mad. How upset would they be if you had the wrong spring washers on the flanges?
    • Rezz
      Phone photo thread

      By Rezz · Posted

      Sakura (cherry blossom) tree at the end of a path going through Kabutoyama Park in Nishinomiya, Japan. Taken with Sharp Aquos R8
    • Rezz
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By Rezz · Posted

      After a fairly extensive search using Japanese terms and checking Minkara etc, I couldn't find anything even close to your front pipe in the photos. I'm no expert but the two pipes merge really close to the flange connected to the catalytic converter which is rather unique from what I've seen, which makes me think it's more than likely a custom front pipe. The welds and 'more pipe sections than usual for a brand name pipe' makes it seem like a custom one.  Here's some photos of an old Mine's front pipe. You can see that it's just 4 pipe sections as opposed to 6, and arguably looks more like a 'production' front pipe:
    • dee242
      Looking for r33 ac line

      By dee242 · Posted

      Wtb r33 low side s2 ac line 
×
×
  • Create New...