Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

This is a really basic question but I can't find a clear answer: Is there a good way to change front brake pads without removing calipers?

I read somewhere to turn old pad sideways and lever against the disc using it. I've tried this but it's still really hard going, the pistons are really tight.

I have removed the brake fluid reservoir top too.

Any tips on how to do this easier? Do I need a special tool?

The car is an R34 GTT with the standard Sumitomo calipers.

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

  • Like 1

quick search and i found this, not sure how well it would work.

corvette-brakes-17.jpg

I've had my pads out about 4 times in the last 2 weeks (because of squealing issues) i can't see any other way except for taking the caliper off, or possibly using that tool if it works well.

Also very interested if there is an easier way.

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

Thanks mate! What's the best way to compress the pistons with the caliper off, without a tool like that?

That tool does actually make sense if it's big enough - pull pads out on both sides and push opposing pistons in using the tool.

The other typical issue is the other piston popping up when you compress the other on the same side, so ideally you'd have two of these tools...

G clamp. Leave 1 pad in and use clamp to compress 2 pistons, then put the pad on the 2 pistons in the other side of caliper and repeat. Done.

Use the ring end of a spanner bigger than the ID of the piston, say 19mm? Lever it carefully against the rotor with the ring end resting inside the piston and will push it in without issue, i have found.

Edited by hardsteppa

Thanks guys, looks like a combination of old pads, flat steel, spanners etc did it. Would have been quicker to just take the calipers off :)

I have ordered the tool Trex posted above to see if it saves some hassle next time.

Thats is seriously a waste of money, a screwdriver or spanner is all ive ever used on all cars

Hehe yeah it's pretty basic ... however if it saves me an hour next time it'll be worth the $25 :)

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

  • Like 1

Youll get better at it the more you do it, its a 30min job changing the front pads now for me, no special tools required...

I find those types of tools just give chance to your caliper paint getting scratched and another tool to grab for the job...

I reckon that tool will take longer than a screw driver

Ok ppl with your fancy screwdrivers, do you just lever off the disc to push the pistons in? Or chuck something in between?

Use a lever under the old pad to push the pistons back. Pull out one pad so you have some room, it will allow the rotor to have small amount of movement as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
×
×
  • Create New...