Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts located in Homebush Bay (willing to post), off my 2002 R34 GTR.

Adaptronic Select Plugin ECU to suit R32/33/34 GTR, less than 6mths old, flex tuned - $1300
Zeitronix ZT3 Wideband, less than 6mths old - $180
Precision 66mm 0.96 T4 open rear housing, new, black ceramic coated - $400
Microtech LTC Display Dash, new, can also work with Haltech - $400
Apexi 3.5" Rear Muffler, tapers inside a little, still pretty quiet down low, flanged, R34 GTR hangers - $150
SMB Stainless Steel Universal Round 3.5" Muffler, new - $250
NTK O2 sensors, used - $80
Stock AFM's - $100
Stock intercooler and intake pipework - $80
Stock Airbox and Air Intake Snorkel - $250
Stock Twin Turbo Pipe - $80
Stock Cam Gears - $20
Stock Cams - $100
Stock Front Pipes - $30
Stock washer bottle - $30
Stock 2001 model struts and springs - $200
Stock Fuel Rail - $50
Samco blue silicone radiator hose, top one used - $30
Tomei Z32 plugs, used - $20
Precision or non-bb turbo oil drain fitting, new - $25

Pics as per request.

The ZT3 wideband does not have a gauge. These need to purchased separately from Zeitronix, as I just simply connected it via my ecu.

Comes with the following:

post-66475-0-62146400-1457919875_thumb.jpg

post-66475-0-86325400-1457919875_thumb.jpg

post-66475-0-05249100-1457919876_thumb.jpg

Hey interested in your o2 sensors, they in good working cond and how long were they used for? And price to ship to brisbane 4500? Thanks

  On 15/03/2016 at 9:35 AM, .R33. said:

Hey interested in your o2 sensors, they in good working cond and how long were they used for? And price to ship to brisbane 4500? Thanks

They were used for about 18 months before going to standalone ECU with a wideband, and still in great working order. I'll throw in free shipping.

  On 15/03/2016 at 10:50 AM, GDZ-14R said:

They were used for about 18 months before going to standalone ECU with a wideband, and still in great working order. I'll throw in free shipping.

Pm sent

UPDATED

Adaptronic Select Plugin ECU to suit R32/33/34 GTR, less than 6mths old, flex tuned - $1200
Zeitronix ZT3 Wideband, less than 6mths old - SOLD
Precision 66mm 0.96 T4 open rear housing, new, black ceramic coated - $400
Microtech LTC Display Dash, new, can also work with Haltech - $400
Apexi 3.5" Rear Muffler, tapers inside a little, still pretty quiet down low, flanged, R34 GTR hangers - $150
SMB Stainless Steel Universal Round 3.5" Muffler, new - $250
NTK O2 sensors, used - SOLD
Stock AFM's - $100
Stock intercooler and intake pipework - $80
Stock Airbox and Air Intake Snorkel - $250
Stock Twin Turbo Pipe - $80
Stock Cam Gears - $20
Stock Cams - $100
Stock Front Pipes - $30
Stock washer bottle - $30
Stock 2001 model struts and springs - SOLD
Stock Fuel Rail - $50
Samco blue silicone radiator hose, top one used - $30
Tomei Z32 plugs, used - $20
Precision or non-bb turbo oil drain fitting, new - $25

Braided black nylon -10 hose, 2.5mtrs, new - $50

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATED

Adaptronic Select Plugin ECU to suit R32/33/34 GTR, less than 6mths old, flex tuned - $1200
Zeitronix ZT3 Wideband, less than 6mths old - SOLD
Precision 66mm 0.96 T4 open rear housing, new, black ceramic coated - $400
Microtech LTC Display Dash, new, can also work with Haltech - $400
Apexi 3.5" Rear Muffler, tapers inside a little, still pretty quiet down low, flanged, R34 GTR hangers - SOLD
SMB Stainless Steel Universal Round 3.5" Muffler, new - $250
NTK O2 sensors, used - SOLD
Stock AFM's - $100
Stock intercooler and intake pipework - $80
Stock Airbox and Air Intake Snorkel - SOLD
Stock Twin Turbo Pipe - $80
Stock Cam Gears - $20
Stock Cams - $100
Stock Front Pipes - $30
Stock washer bottle - $30
Stock 2001 model struts and springs - SOLD
Stock Fuel Rail - $50
Samco blue silicone radiator hose, top one used - $30
Tomei Z32 plugs, used - $20
Precision or non-bb turbo oil drain fitting, new - $25

Braided black nylon -10 hose, 2.5mtrs, new - $50

Sorry to hijack thread.

How does the Adaptronic compare to the old Power FC? Looking to upgrade with a mild budget but still unsure between - Link G4/ Vipec/ Adaptronic (Haltech is not in my price range right now)

  On 28/03/2016 at 2:16 AM, djvoodoo said:

Sorry to hijack thread.

How does the Adaptronic compare to the old Power FC? Looking to upgrade with a mild budget but still unsure between - Link G4/ Vipec/ Adaptronic (Haltech is not in my price range right now)

No comparison. Have a look at http://www.skylineecu.com/

No AFM's needed, flex fuel tuning, integrate wideband, etc.

  • 4 weeks later...

UPDATED

Adaptronic Select Plugin ECU to suit R32/33/34 GTR, less than 6mths old, flex tuned - SOLD
Zeitronix ZT3 Wideband, less than 6mths old - SOLD
Precision 66mm 0.96 T4 open rear housing, new, black ceramic coated - $400
Microtech LTC Display Dash, new, can also work with Haltech - $400
Apexi 3.5" Rear Muffler, tapers inside a little, still pretty quiet down low, flanged, R34 GTR hangers - SOLD
SMB Stainless Steel Universal Round 3.5" Muffler, new - $250
NTK O2 sensors, used - SOLD
Stock AFM's - $100
Stock intercooler and intake pipework - $80
Stock Airbox and Air Intake Snorkel - SOLD
Stock Twin Turbo Pipe - $80
Stock Cam Gears - $20
Stock Cams - $100
Stock Front Pipes - $30
Stock washer bottle - $30
Stock 2001 model struts and springs - SOLD
Stock Fuel Rail - $50
Samco blue silicone radiator hose, top one used - $30
Tomei Z32 plugs, used - $20
Precision or non-bb turbo oil drain fitting, new - $25

Braided black nylon -10 hose, 2.5mtrs, new - $50

Microtech LTC Display Dash, new, can also work with Haltech - $400

Samco blue silicone radiator hose, top one used - $30

Hey mate

Interested in these please, can you send photos to 0407 175 417?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...