Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hopefully going in next week for a few hrs with dvs-jez, hopefully he can work it put.

Im at a complete loss on what to do?

Ive been right over it, methodically tested and inspected everything from scratch.

No results thus far, still running like a 2bob watch.

Spoke to a few tuners, decided a fresh set of eyes is next on the to do list.

If I cant get this engine to run as it should, then im not going to waste any more time or money on it, seeing its nothing special anyways, (especially after driving my rb26 or 30det, the 20 is very average) ill drop either an rb25det in or neo 25det in it, then develop from there.

So I think I may have fixed it?

Between both sets of injectors, my old set from my 25de and the set out of it, ive found 3 dead injectors in total.

So I measured them all for impedance, basket cleanliness, and set them up and ran them with the old cas spin method to trick the ecu into cycling them, 2 would do nothing and 1 would only work 50% of the time, and 2 of the 3 had high resistance,

So I picked 6 that tested up and functioned ok.

Put them in and it started and idled perfect straight away.

Set the base idle and then base timing to 20',

Took for a drive and feels like stock standard again, happy days!

Afrs are not as tidy as id expect for a factory tune, but good enough to drive properly.

They're atleast steady, close to what id target and not crazy rich/lean like it was.

  • Like 1

So I think I may have fixed it?

Between both sets of injectors, my old set from my 25de and the set out of it, ive found 3 dead injectors in total.

So I measured them all for impedance, basket cleanliness, and set them up and ran them with the old cas spin method to trick the ecu into cycling them, 2 would do nothing and 1 would only work 50% of the time, and 2 of the 3 had high resistance,

So I picked 6 that tested up and functioned ok.

Put them in and it started and idled perfect straight away.

Set the base idle and then base timing to 20',

Took for a drive and feels like stock standard again, happy days!

Afrs are not as tidy as id expect for a factory tune, but good enough to drive properly.

They're atleast steady, close to what id target and not crazy rich/lean like it was.

Good to see you got it sorted man! Time for a nistune and a mild tune to get the rest of it running perfect ?
  • 2 weeks later...

Running issues are intermittently happening still.

So.....

Changed out my fuel rail, reg and injectors from my rb30det (hardware i know works) along with the power fc, loaded an rb20det tune along with all the injector corrections to suit.

Drove around all good, drove it work for night shift (27km trip) and it was perfect, afrs where imo spot on the money, drove really nice, crispy performance.

Then drove home at around 2am, nice cool air about 22' and got about 2 min up the road, solid off scale rich, coughing and sputtering its so rich, all the way home.

So i think, only hardware left is the harness, the rest i know works perfectly in my other car, so i strip the harness looking for a short in the injector signal wires

(thinking they're being held open via a ground short circuit, rub through wire)

And i found nothing but a surprisingly good cond harness.

Fml!

Separately wrapped up the inj signal wires, tapped the harness back up, no change obviously!

So put all the stock hardware back in.

Still rich af at idle, (it stalls/fouls plugs if left idling to long)

Ran a new afm harness back to the ecu today, along with different afm.

Ill test drive tomorrow.

Thing has me stumped......

Also to mention, i monitored the map watch and afm voltage at cruise speed,

On flat road, afm voltage and load points where solid and holding steady but afrs where rich off scale 10:1 to 13:1 back and forth while holding steady a load point.

This led me to the short in the harness theory, but to no avail.

Running issues are intermittently happening still.

So.....

Changed out my fuel rail, reg and injectors from my rb30det (hardware i know works) along with the power fc, loaded an rb20det tune along with all the injector corrections to suit.

Drove around all good, drove it work for night shift (27km trip) and it was perfect, afrs where imo spot on the money, drove really nice, crispy performance.

Then drove home at around 2am, nice cool air about 22' and got about 2 min up the road, solid off scale rich, coughing and sputtering its so rich, all the way home.

So i think, only hardware left is the harness, the rest i know works perfectly in my other car, so i strip the harness looking for a short in the injector signal wires

(thinking they're being held open via a ground short circuit, rub through wire)

And i found nothing but a surprisingly good cond harness.

Fml!

Separately wrapped up the inj signal wires, tapped the harness back up, no change obviously!

So put all the stock hardware back in.

Still rich af at idle, (it stalls/fouls plugs if left idling to long)

Ran a new afm harness back to the ecu today, along with different afm.

Ill test drive tomorrow.

Thing has me stumped......

As much as I love the rb20dets maybe it's time to just pull the old girl out and source another one or even upgrade to a 25 while your at it? Gotta remember these motors are getting old now a days and could just be old age that's gotten to the inside maybe ?

Running issues are intermittently happening still.

So.....

Changed out my fuel rail, reg and injectors from my rb30det (hardware i know works) along with the power fc, loaded an rb20det tune along with all the injector corrections to suit.

Drove around all good, drove it work for night shift (27km trip) and it was perfect, afrs where imo spot on the money, drove really nice, crispy performance.

Then drove home at around 2am, nice cool air about 22' and got about 2 min up the road, solid off scale rich, coughing and sputtering its so rich, all the way home.

So i think, only hardware left is the harness, the rest i know works perfectly in my other car, so i strip the harness looking for a short in the injector signal wires

(thinking they're being held open via a ground short circuit, rub through wire)

And i found nothing but a surprisingly good cond harness.

Fml!

Separately wrapped up the inj signal wires, tapped the harness back up, no change obviously!

So put all the stock hardware back in.

Still rich af at idle, (it stalls/fouls plugs if left idling to long)

Ran a new afm harness back to the ecu today, along with different afm.

Ill test drive tomorrow.

Thing has me stumped......

As much as I love the rb20dets maybe it's time to just pull the old girl out and source another one or even upgrade to a 25 while your at it? Gotta remember these motors are getting old now a days and could just be old age that's gotten to the inside maybe ?

Im already getting quotes from a few places, trying to get a halfcut to upgrade the box as well.

Possibly a neo with r33 gb combo i think would work well.

ive completely lost faith in this engine, have even spoke to a few rb tuners, they agree to just upgrade it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
×
×
  • Create New...