Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have both turbos. The t04z on 25psi in an rb25 and and -5 on an rb26 28psi. Both standard head and cams. The -5 are more useable in 2 gear and it feels it has more torque from 4500-7000rpm. But the z from 5000rpm is alto more aggressive. I can't comment on gtrs but even getting the -5 set up properly on the gtr is abit of a pain.

Old Z with a newer style billet compressor with a bit of cleaning up comes on 300 or so earlier. Pretty much what a GTW does, yet people always claim more response, like 500 rpm, yet to see it though.

you talking about the 11 blade gtx style t04z wheel that every man and his dog is throwing into 3582's?

cheers

darren

you talking about the 11 blade gtx style t04z wheel that every man and his dog is throwing into 3582's?

cheers

darren

That's the one.66mm I think. Mate with a Barra has one with a bigger flapper and making 350 on 14 pounds. Response is nothing to get excited about for a 35, will see how it behaves with a valve spring change and more boost.

Dual Ball Bearing Garrett To4Z . 700-750HP flow potential.

Compressor wheel diameter is 84mm exd. / 66.7mm ind. (63trim) Compressor housing is .70 A/R has a 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet slip on connection.

T4 Turbine housing divided A/R .84 entry, all with standard 3" V-band discharge.

Turbine

-Wheel: 74.2mm w/ 76 trim

-T4 Divided Housing A/R .84

Compressor

-Wheel: 84.0mm exd./66.7mm ind w/ 63 trim

-Housing: 0.70 A/R

t04zcompress.gif

(707160-5) dash 5's stack up nicely against that compressor map maxing out at virtually the same numbers.

Lower half of the -5 Map looks better as it moves more air at a given pressure which helps with response but tapers off a bit earlier. 28b0d4b57b9b71c0e351d4118c7acc08.jpg

post-60000-14586376901249_thumb.jpg

Edited by mr skidz

(707160-5) dash 5's stack up nicely against that compressor map maxing out at virtually the same numbers.

Lower half of the -5 Map looks better as it moves more air at a given pressure which helps with response but tapers off a bit earlier. 28b0d4b57b9b71c0e351d4118c7acc08.jpg

Don't know mate, I just went for a drive in a few, liked it, bolted one up and thrash the fk out of it and drive it daily.

I am sure there are better set ups out there but I love the power delivery and the fact I drive around under boost all day in traffic and am just a gear change away from shits and giggles.

Once this one goes I might bolt up an old Borg Warner s300 -66, apparently they're good value with similar characteristics.

  • Like 1

70% vs 65% efficiency at the top end makes some difference.

It actually looks like it's better down low as well. Look at the 1.5 pressure ratio and 20lb/min for the z vs 10lb/min for the twins.

*Regarding the to4z map if that's what it is. it seems a bit hard to read but it looks like it says 65% efficiency at the top island of the compressor map, which also requires more pressure to get there.

Just doesn't seem as energy efficient is all I was saying.

but not bad it actually looks really good for an old school single, I like em.

*regarding the 10lb's/min -5 vs T04z 20lb's/min which is essentially 7psi boost and neither have cracked the wastegate at that pressure and they are both identical as the dash 5's are used as twins so it's 10lbs of air from each -5 totaling 20lbs/min.

Look at the popular wastegate pressure ratio of 2bar which is (1bar boost)

it shows the -5's out flowing the T04z by 10lbs/min.

I have had the pleasure of going in a fully built stroked ca18 180sx imported from Japan which had one on it and it was mega still one of the loudest n quickest cars I'd been in.

Edited by mr skidz

*Regarding the to4z map if that's what it is. it seems a bit hard to read but it looks like it says 65% efficiency at the top island of the compressor map, which also requires more pressure to get there.

Just doesn't seem as energy efficient is all I was saying.

but not bad it actually looks really good for an old school single, I like em.

*regarding the 10lb's/min -5 vs T04z 20lb's/min which is essentially 7psi boost and neither have cracked the wastegate at that pressure and they are both identical as the dash 5's are used as twins so it's 10lbs of air from each -5 totaling 20lbs/min.

Look at the popular wastegate pressure ratio of 2bar which is (1bar boost)

it shows the -5's out flowing the T04z by 10lbs/min.

I have had the pleasure of going in a fully built stroked ca18 180sx imported from Japan which had one on it and it was mega still one of the loudest n quickest cars I'd been in.

Have a look at the 70lb/min vs the 35lb/min.

At the 20lb/min to10lb/m vs 10lb/min to 5lb/min mark, there's definitely more "area" on the z.

Running 1 bar on either of turbos is a waste of time really.

Edited by s2d4

Your doubling the the potential lbs/min flow of the -5 Map aren't you?

So when I see 35lbs it's theoretically 70lbs.

Was just pointing out similarities in flow vs pressure ratios.

Edited by mr skidz

In theory, then in practise it's not when you've got two turbos pushing against each other and twin restrictions on the motor.

Like I said, for those flow values to be anywhere near true in practise you'll need twin cooler, twin plenum to fully separate everything.

question is a little off topic, GTRS bolt up on sr20's reason im asking is I have a set I want to sell :P to the sr20 guys

GTR'S are old, they will make 500kw but to do it right cost more than going single and your not getting anywhere near as a good result!

Off topic but the HKS T04Z is a good looking turbo even now. Far better than my ugly little EFR.

Yes. But I will wait for someone to say "oh they are old tech" without even quantifying (or perhaps understanding) what that means.

Yes. But I will wait for someone to say "oh they are old tech" without even quantifying (or perhaps understanding) what that means.

it is though... but it's solid tech that works better than any modern tech that runs in pairs.

post-16858-14587258821647_thumb.jpg

I don't think this turbo in twin form will perform well on any engine unless upwards of 3500cc as you are not able to cheat and run more boost to make the claimed 850-900 hp because it runs out of compressor at 2bar boost. On a 2.6 with let's say big cams revving to 8500rpm the -5 should make the same power as them at around 1.8 bar. A single turbo on the other hand like a t04z, gtx4088 or even gt4294r I think you are able to cheat because if you don't have massive cams or oversize valves to improve the Ve of the engine( which are essential to make the gtrs work well in an rb26/28/30) you can just run more boost to make the power.

That's the one.66mm I think. Mate with a Barra has one with a bigger flapper and making 350 on 14 pounds. Response is nothing to get excited about for a 35, will see how it behaves with a valve spring change and more boost.

Yeh.its a little turbine driving a big comp wheel.\

My mate has a 3582 on a vl in a 1.06 housing with that wheel. Makes 450rwkw through a loose converter on 30psi. Ran over 140mph.\

But his gate is plumbed back into restrictive 3 inch exhaust aswell.

On 30psi it made no more boost..unplugged gate and went straight to 40psi and maxed fuel pumps out coming on

Another has gone 145mph on 30-32psi with gates vented to atmo with that turbo

The comp wheels a decent thing..needs a gt37 turbine ot similiar. Peformanz turbos in perth selll a turbo with that comp wheel in a 3582 core and gt37 turbine..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...