Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Gents,

My breaks are squeaking quite a lot at low speed and have since i put on the HPX pads 5 years ago (car gets very little use). I rarely drive the car so and read online it was not uncommon for the pads so never really thought much of it other than being occasionally annoyed. Anyhow i put the car for a service with some new pads (Intima) to put on and they said the discs are pretty scratched/skuffed up and expect they would make same noise regardless of whether i swap the pads over. So, for now, i'll just leave the same HPX ones on.

Now, when i had the HPX pads put on years ago i had the discs machined at the time. The workshop (different one but have looked after my car the past few years) at the moment do not usually work on old skylines (R33 S2) and are unsure how much my discs can be machined. They would need to send them off to get done too. Can anyone advise on what the minimum dimensions? And also what i should expect the cost for having them machined?

The obvious alternative being buy new rotors i guess, though, for a car i only use on the weekend spending $750 on new rotors (http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/braking-c-21_22_26_65_515.html) is not really something i want to do if can be avoided. Is there cheaper but quality alternatives i should consider given car only gets light use and very rarely heavy breaking?

Advice please? Other options i should consider? :)

Cheers

Rob

Edited by Xizor
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463349-machining-brakerotors-options/
Share on other sites

nothing wrong with maching brakes as many times as you like, just keep them above the minimum (generally 2mm less than new, but I tend to rely on the DBA cattledog too). Afterall, that's how they made the discs the right thickness in the first place.

Just make sure you bed the pads in again after machining, it will remove all the pad build up and it needs to be restored

Oh my haha, I never said they did not know or were not willing to lookup the stats for how much can be machined - just that they did not know off hand (it was afternoon, they were happy to find out but they would of needed to get done overnight, i needed car back same day, and i had them machined once before so not that confident in doing it again, no idea how much they took off last time).

I quite clearly did NOT say i want to cheap out on brakes. Come on. I said cheaper than the slotted or whatever ones were at Kudo, which i have no need for, but still reputable quality. If that is the base model RDA for my car thats cool.... thats all you had to say :) I have some Intima pads i bought on here a year or so ago ready to go on the car but I have been out of the scene for many, many years now, and am not familiar with what the options are wrt to brands, models, or even where to buy so just asking the community for assistance to keep a Skyline on the road.

Edited by Xizor

At a DBA brakes tech night a while back; the guys from DBA made the comment that Australia is a bit of an anomaly in the worldwide brake market, because of the fact that we tend to machine rotors rather than replace them as a matter of course.

Most markets simply replace the rotor, if they get a lip, or develop shudder/noise; which I thought was quite strange.

Turns out we aren't a s much of a disposable society as I'd thought.

Do you have brake shims?

41080-40P25 - 33GTST - ~$120

41080-40P26 - Z34 - $60

41080-40P27 - 32R - $75

They're all essentially the same kit, the 33 has half plates while the 32R and Z32 have full sized plates.

I found some wrx sumitomo shims that were cheaper again. I can't see these being a problem are they're the same size caliper with the same sized pad?

You can also buy project mu shims, but they're just 0.5mm sticky pad with rubber at ~$80.

I went with standard hardware as skylines didn't sqeak from the factory and the plates can be bent a little to add more tension on the pad to the piston.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
    • Got just the wing painted and fitted up to the existing boot. Big visual change and about time after having a GTR wing sitting in the shed since 2018 Headed up to Mallala with a quick obligatory stop in at Boliver OTR Oil control mods seems to have worked. I checked the catch can after session 1 and there was a dribble of water/e85 with barely any oil in it. After session 2 and 3 there was almost nothing and I stopped checking after that. so either great success or catastrophic failure/block of the external breather The GTR wing made a noticeable difference in the 160-185km/h sweepers. It was a very hot day for the cars at over 33C but the previously done cooling upgrade/ducting/water sprayers meant I never saw over 60C intake, 105C water and 100C oil and temps would drop back down very quickly once I shut it down. AD09's are a decent tyre but certainly and expectedly a step down when compared the the CR-S/AR-1 I have had on the car for years of track days. The handling characteristics of my car which I often describe using the Tony Hawks Pro Skater balance mechanic where either side of the center is understeer/oversteer was much more pronounced with no "green/safe" zone in the middle. However, imo it steers well/easily during oversteer largely thanks to the custom ACOSTAL front end. Enjoy a loose lap POV with my mate giggling away as a passenger.   Group photo for Peer Pressure Racing made it back home and gave it a wash Overall a great success compared to my previous two track days where i cooked the Starlets motor and blew up the new diff in the R32  
×
×
  • Create New...