Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a confession to make .. once I sold my C34 I didn't keep up with the Stagea models and trends. :( I have no idea about the M35.

Help me try to convince my wife that a Stag is the best family car option.

Likes;

Bluetooth

Screen / reverse camera

Black leather

Front power seats

dual sun roofs

Must haves;

4wd

Power! I notice that the 25t and 35 n/a are similar numbers - is that right? We don't necessarily need turbs so i'd be happy with 3.5 (assuming 350Z / Maxima donk?)

Good towing ability (Do many come from Japan with factory towbars?)

Do any come with 7 seats?

This is to compete with local Liberty, Kluger etc.

Would like to stay under 25k.

What do you think?

Do we have an M35 model differences thread? (for model equipment/features, not necessarily mechanical differences.) I'll add/update one if we dont have one.

C

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463351-m35-model-differences/
Share on other sites

An M35 Stagea is the best family car option. It's true, you read it on the Internet.

4WD: Check. Available with 2.5 turbo and 3.5 NA.

Power: Check. Available with 2.5 turbo and 3.5 NA. Lots of 2.5 knowledge on here, 3.5 knowledge is worldwide due to 350Z/G35 link. Popular consensus is 2.5T has more torque and slightly better performance stock but 3.5 is no slouch and a nicer place to be.

Good towing: This is a sticking point. Some have torn rear subframes towing heavy loads, other pull car trailers with no issues. I suspect it comes down to how the bar is mounted but I'm nowhere near qualified enough to speculate. I had a towbar fitted to mine when it came into the country but I only use it for lighter loads (<750kg total) and have a Commodore for heavy stuff.

7 seats: I haven't seen one yet, given the rear layout I can't see how one would work.

Under $25K: Pass. In NZ you'd struggle to pay half that for a decent one. Most expensive M35 on TradeMe at the mo is $NZ14,995 but he's dreaming for the spec.

Specs: Go for broke: http://specs.cars-directory.net/nissan/stagea/2001_431/ - Please buy a 350S. Please.

Considered stuff like the 370GT Crossover? Probably over budget though.

  • Like 1

Thanks Hertz.

The towing is usually light. We take a trailer camping with us for bikes, kayaks, tents etc. Currently the Passat doesn't even hiccup and besides the odd small jolt or noise from the back you'd have no idea it was there. This is what I'm looking for. Obv's if I hooked it up behind my Mazda 3 there'd be more tell tale signs that it was there. I reckon its always < 750kg. Def not towing boats or caravans.

7 seats is not a deal breaker. It'd be good for the odd scenario where grandparents and kids want to come.

The Axis looks the business, but the interior is a little loud. I'm sure I could replace the wood grain with back (I did that in My Bora. Best thing I ever did to it) but the seats are just a bit much. Do any Axis' come with black interior?

Do they all have screen / reverse / bluetooth ?

Screen / reverse camera was a factory option for M35's.

Bluetooth was not, but can be implemented a number of ways - new stereo being the most expensive, Grom units are cheap and run flash drives for music although they have do seem to have considerable echo during phone calls, or you could just get a generic bluetooth unit as you would with any car that does support it).

If your budget is anywhere under $25k, go with the PNM35. Much nicer car and if you do need more power than standard, you can throw some cash at it with a bolt on turbo/SC kit I suppose.

The only alternative I really see for the price would be a VE wagon.

  • Like 1

Do they all have screen / reverse / bluetooth ?

If it helps, I just installed a new head unit in my M35, cost me $120 for the unit, another $40 for harnesses, and took me a couple of hours of fiddling to get the job done (first time cracking the dash open). Includes Bluetooth music and phone calls, as well as complete hands free control if you are a smart (read: Android) user. Bottom line is that the factory Bose speaker aren't too bad, and a new head unit isn't as scary as people seem to think it is.

  • Like 1

If it helps, I just installed a new head unit in my M35, cost me $120 for the unit, another $40 for harnesses, and took me a couple of hours of fiddling to get the job done (first time cracking the dash open). Includes Bluetooth music and phone calls, as well as complete hands free control if you are a smart (read: Android) user. Bottom line is that the factory Bose speaker aren't too bad, and a new head unit isn't as scary as people seem to think it is.

What unit is it? Got a link? (Yes, I'm a smart user :thumbsup:)

I'm pretty sure this is it, I got it on special though. If you didn't live in Sydney, I'd happily drink a beer and point at screws you need to undo.

https://www.jbhifi.com.au/gps-car-audio/kenwood/kenwood-kdc-u563bt-200w-mp3-cd-tuner-with-usb-ipod-bluetooth/694636/

The Aerpro harnesses you can get at Autobarns/Ebay, whichever is your fancy, but don't forget to get an aerial adapter as well. This unit won't play CD's, either, but, who the heck uses CD's anymore, amiright?

Of note, Series 2 M35's don't come with a single DIN stereo.

As such, you would need the double DIN interior pieces and either a double DIN unit or the possibly the single DIN cradle from a series 1 M35 as well as as the double DIN interior pieces for the series 2- not that I have seen anyone do this conversion as yet, but I must say that I quite like the idea...

  • Like 1

Of note, Series 2 M35's don't come with a single DIN stereo.

As such, you would need the double DIN interior pieces and either a double DIN unit or the possibly the single DIN cradle from a series 1 M35 as well as as the double DIN interior pieces for the series 2- not that I have seen anyone do this conversion as yet, but I must say that I quite like the idea...

I happen to know that a mob in Campbellfield has a Stagea sitting in the front yard that has been picked clean, save for the dash that includes two single din slots. Mine bolted straight in, and I have the same set up. At least, I'm pretty confident I saw that, I just took the window washer bottle and ran back to the mechanic. Give them a shout:

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/campbellfield/wrecking/bb-auto-parts-wrecking-2002-nissan-stagea-m35/1106007411

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...