Post Track Day Q's: Rotor Wear, Gearbox Oil, Ps Pump, Manifold Nuts

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

4 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Fan makes no difference at speed - needed for traffic and idle only.

(based on my own experiences only).. when I replaced my viscous hub my car took much longer to overheat with the Worley radiator. Now that I've replaced the radiator with a PWR radiator my water temperatures don't even go past 100 degrees when I flog the shit out of my car on the track lap after lap after lap.

If I were to remove the fan entirely, I predict my car would overheat on the track based on what you've said.

[KiwiRS4T]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

(based on my own experiences only).. when I replaced my viscous hub my car took much longer to overheat with the Worley radiator. Now that I've replaced the radiator with a PWR radiator my water temperatures don't even go past 100 degrees when I flog the shit out of my car on the track lap after lap after lap.

If I were to remove the fan entirely, I predict my car would overheat on the track based on what you've said.

In the interests of science how about you pull it out after a few laps and see what happens? (Of course it will heat up when you stop).

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

yes of course will heat up when it stops.. but I was referring to whilst on the track

[V28VX37]

On 8/2/2016 at 8:55 PM, Duncan said:

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5. They wont really unglaze on their own, more likely to damage the discs running them like that. Give them a good rub on rough concrete then bed them in again.  The pedal is probably fluid; bleed it through with good quality fluid like motul RBF

 

On 8/2/2016 at 8:59 PM, admS15 said:

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The brakes would need a bleed for sure and could probably even do with fresh fluid.
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On 8/3/2016 at 10:51 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

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Also re-bleed your system, totally worth it.

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I got a local shop to replace the fluid and bleed the system today, still a very crappy pedal. He reckons I may have killed the master cylinder rubber seals with hot fluid across several track days, which is indeed possible.

The question now is whether I should replace master cylinder only with a new BM50, or whether I should grab the whole BMC+Brake booster assembly off a wreckers (now very keen on used parts though cos you never know). What's the chances of a brake booster going on these cars?

Edit: BMC's are like $500 new, ouch. Seems a little hard to find a rebuild kit, do they exist?

[KiwiRS4T]

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

yes of course will heat up when it stops.. but I was referring to whilst on the track

So was I

[KiwiRS4T]

34 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

 

 

. What's the chances of a brake booster going on these cars?

Edit: BMC's are like $500 new, ouch. Seems a little hard to find a rebuild kit, do they exist?

When I fitted my BM57 I kept the existing brake booster - there's not a lot to go wrong with them 

.I found a repair kit for my M/C - start with Nissan and try other suppliers of Nissan parts and also brake shops.

Just found this (after you have tried everything else): http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?491863-Tokico-BM50-master-cylinder-repair-kit&s=d71f4a4814c11f5bb42cc4c108b2660f

[Duncan]

never heard of anyone killing their MC seals with heat, I sure didn't with multiple skylines doing billions of laps.  Frankly I'd suggest you bleed it, it's a skill worth having and you'll know its done right. The glazed pads can give you a horrible wooden feel, but a squishy pedal is always a bleeding/air problem.

[KiwiRS4T]

By all means bleed it some more - especially if someone else has changed the fluid. Have you got a M/C stopper and braided brake lines?

[V28VX37]

10 minutes ago, Duncan said:

never heard of anyone killing their MC seals with heat, I sure didn't with multiple skylines doing billions of laps.  Frankly I'd suggest you bleed it, it's a skill worth having and you'll know its done right. The glazed pads can give you a horrible wooden feel, but a squishy pedal is always a bleeding/air problem.

 

4 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

By all means bleed it some more - especially if someone else has changed the fluid. Have you got a M/C stopper and braided brake lines?

Thanks guys. Yes it has M/C stopper and braided lines all around.

What I find weird is that back in December I did almost 40 laps of Sandown during the day in 37 degrees (with lots of cool down laps) with no brake issues, yet on Sunday I pretty much killed them in 20 odd laps across 3 sessions in sub-15 degrees (granted, not enough cool down laps).

*goes googling for some brake bleeding instructions*

[KiwiRS4T]

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

 

 

*goes googling for some brake bleeding instructions*

Best done with two people. Yes you can get one man kits but if you get someone to pump the pedal and you have a clear plastic hose going into a jar you can watch out for bubbles.

[benm]

I destroyed my master cylinder doing a smsp trackday about 15 years ago. I fitted new pads, rotors, fluid, stainless lines, more fluid, rebuilt master cylinder, more fluid, sleeved and rebuilt master cylinder and even more fluid and in the end it was the master cylinder all along that was giving a soft pedal. Ordered a new 1 from Japan and brakes felt great again.

[Kinkstaah]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

never heard of anyone killing their MC seals with heat, I sure didn't with multiple skylines doing billions of laps.  Frankly I'd suggest you bleed it, it's a skill worth having and you'll know its done right. The glazed pads can give you a horrible wooden feel, but a squishy pedal is always a bleeding/air problem.

I once had this be a pad problem, but the pad had actually become liquefied and had splashed all over the rims. Changed pads and problem went away.

Note: You'd know about it if it was this, this was the pad that comes with the Attakd brake kit for street use. It is violently not up to task and fades in literally two corners.

 

But it can happen!

 

[Duncan]

33 minutes ago, benm said:

I destroyed my master cylinder doing a smsp trackday about 15 years ago. I fitted new pads, rotors, fluid, stainless lines, more fluid, rebuilt master cylinder, more fluid, sleeved and rebuilt master cylinder and even more fluid and in the end it was the master cylinder all along that was giving a soft pedal. Ordered a new 1 from Japan and brakes felt great again.

that I remember like it was yesterday, it took ages to get to the bottom of that; but it was not necessarily due to heat on that track day, more likely seals that had gone bad over time with water in the fluid etc; we don't really know the history of our cars before they left japan.

lucky we aren't talking about flywheels, right?

anyway, I'd still start with bleeding for sure...eric let me down (he only shows 1 person) but chris shows how to do it: 

 

[V28VX37]

Local shop 0 - Duncan 1

I just bled the system twice (except for the ABS unit), much better. There was a fair bit of air coming out of all four calipers, not sure if they actually bled it at all, grr.

The pedal is still not brilliant, it's always been a bit funny in that it drops slightly when pulling to a full stop and the engine drops to idle revs. My guess is that it's something to do with the booster but who knows. Since I've already ordered the parts I'll get the booster and master replaced, interesting to see if that makes any difference.

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With overheating the engine, it looks like I might have gotten lucky, knock on wood. Can starts and runs fine, boosts well and has its original power judging from the driver's seat. I drove a long distance yesterday and gave it some stick just before with no temp issues. Also running it with the oil cooler cover due to the winter ambient temps. I will continue to keep an eye out for any leaks.

I did notice something else just before when pulling into the shed, there's not loud but audible 'scuffing' sound (best I can describe it) from the gearbox when it's in neutral. It goes away when you put the clutch in. Not sure if it's nothing to worry about, an early signal that the clutch is on its way out, or something else.

 

[Duncan]

lol by my count I am 3-0 up in this thread so far (seized pistons, coolant leak and brakes not bled properly).....but no magical crystal ball, I've just had all those problems over the years.

And I can add that the noise you are describing (whirring noise when foot on the clutch, regardless of gear/neutral, no noise in neutral with foot off the clutch) is your thrust bearing being a little worn.  Just live with it until you next replace your clutch. 

And your engine will be fine, you would have noticed problems straight away like smoke or water vapour at the exhaust. You could check the torque of your head bolts but I'll bet they are fine too. I've had a engine at 132o without killing it, the heat would either warp or crack the head gasket which would lead to a major oil and/or water leak. A compression test would confirm no lasting damage if you are worried

[iruvyouskyrine]

I have had my neo up to 140 degrees a few times. Head was mint when it came off, I was worried about warping but will still straight as.

[V28VX37]

On 8/6/2016 at 7:09 PM, V28VX37 said:

I just bled the system twice (except for the ABS unit), much better. There was a fair bit of air coming out of all four calipers, not sure if they actually bled it at all, grr.

The pedal is still not brilliant, it's always been a bit funny in that it drops slightly when pulling to a full stop and the engine drops to idle revs. My guess is that it's something to do with the booster but who knows. Since I've already ordered the parts I'll get the booster and master replaced, interesting to see if that makes any difference.

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Ok so the second hand booster+master fell through, the condition wasn't what I expected. Looking for a master rebuild kit now, next step is to call Nissan.

I just went to have a good look at the ABS unit and really can't see anything that looks like a bleeder. Am I looking in the wrong spot?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

crack the top lines with a rag over it...2 man job i.e. open, press, close, lift, repeat

[V28VX37]

crack the top lines with a rag over it...2 man job i.e. open, press, close, lift, repeat

Thanks - is that the sequence or should it be pedal down, open/close, pedal up?

[Hadouken]

Do it just like you would the calipers.