Post Track Day Q's: Rotor Wear, Gearbox Oil, Ps Pump, Manifold Nuts

[n0nac]

why not just crack the caliper bleeder, and let it run through. start rear right, then left, then front right then left.

might need 2 rounds of hte car to get all the air out. 

trick is to not get air in the abs in the first place if you can help it :S

 

[Hadouken]

There probably is. So you'll have to do it and see if it gets better.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

 

Thanks - is that the sequence or should it be pedal down, open/close, pedal up?

 

hahaha yes.. tyou know what I mean

[V28VX37]

On 8/23/2016 at 1:09 PM, Hadouken said:

There probably is. So you'll have to do it and see if it gets better.

 

On 8/23/2016 at 3:57 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hahaha yes.. tyou know what I mean

Cheers. So just to be 110% clear, I'm going to bleed the 'outgoing' side only of the ABS unit i.e. the lines on the top (FL, FR, R)? The incoming lines on the side are the F and R from the master cylinder.

I was surprised to find just a single line for the Rear but then I realised the ABS sensor system is in the diff, so I'm guessing both rears operate together.

...

I also realised that I have about 3cm clearance between the turbo rear housing and the FL brake line (!). I'm guessing this will help cook the brakes much faster.
I'm looking at fabbing a DIY heat shield divider out of thin steel before the next track day to put around the line.

  

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I did both IN and OUT just to be safe.

Also after you bleed it once, go around the block and try to set off the ABS, ie when the tyres are cold just smash the brakes as hard as you can to set it off.

Then rebleed the ABS unit once more followed by all 4x corners.

I had the same issue, just massaged the lines out of harms way and bought those hose sleeves (open ones, with the adhesive seal)

[V28VX37]

On 8/28/2016 at 10:19 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I did both IN and OUT just to be safe.

Also after you bleed it once, go around the block and try to set off the ABS, ie when the tyres are cold just smash the brakes as hard as you can to set it off.

Then rebleed the ABS unit once more followed by all 4x corners.

I had the same issue, just massaged the lines out of harms way and bought those hose sleeves (open ones, with the adhesive seal)

Just bled all 5 points at the ABS unit and all 4 calipers afterwards, no difference really. It's passable, but not brilliant.

I drove another sedan recently, with a K-Sport front kit and Forza pads. Very sensitive pedal feel, reminded me of the AP Racing setup in my old Monaro, so nice.

I'm still wondering if master cylinder replacement/rebuild is the best next step, I've tried pretty much everything else I think. I'm trying to get hold of Race Brakes to get a second opinion on the kit cost, $150 for a couple of rubber seals from Nissan is a bit steep. If that doesn't work then it's only booster and ABS unit left, both of which are an unlikely cause but you never know because of Murphy's law...

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Did you set off the ABS a few times?

I found that mine felt a bit "VN Commodore like" till I hit the ABS a few times then re bled

[benm]

23 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

I'm still wondering if master cylinder replacement/rebuild is the best next step, I've tried pretty much everything else I think. I'm trying to get hold of Race Brakes to get a second opinion on the kit cost, $150 for a couple of rubber seals from Nissan is a bit steep. If that doesn't work then it's only booster and ABS unit left, both of which are an unlikely cause but you never know because of Murphy's law...

Back 10 years ago when I had serious brake issues I took it to RaceBrakes Wetherill Park. They did the usual bleed this and bleed that and told me it was ready to come pick up. I reversed it out of their work shop and nearly backed it straight into the wall opposite them because the pedal went straight to the floor. Last time I set foot in that workshop.

At another local brake workshop I had new seals fitted, didn't fix it, they then sent it off to be sleeved, didn't work. I then bought a new master from Japan (back then it was about $350 delivered) and bingo fixed every problem on the spot. They refunded all the bills they gave me for the past couple of months and I added them to my list of workshops I don't take vehicles to.

[niZmO_Man]

If I brought my bleeder stuff like I wanted to but forgot, I would have had better brakes and improved my SMSP south time by another 2 seconds lol.
My spongy as shit brakes worked fine when the air in the ABS module moved around haha (took 3 seconds off my PB). So yeah, have to trigger ABS a few times then bleed, then repeat.

[KiwiRS4T]

With the kit you get a couple of pistons as well as the seals but yep $150 is steep.

[V28VX37]

On 8/28/2016 at 8:57 PM, V28VX37 said:

...

I also realised that I have about 3cm clearance between the turbo rear housing and the FL brake line (!). I'm guessing this will help cook the brakes much faster.
I'm looking at fabbing a DIY heat shield divider out of thin steel before the next track day to put around the line.

  

Finally got around to fabricating the heat shield, quite fiddly because of the tight space but came out ok. I used 1.6mm galvanised steel from Bunnings, which is sturdy but not that much fun to work with using home tools.

The front left brake line should be better shielded now, as well as the ABS unit. The actuator arm is pretty close but since it's pushing out (towards the rear of the car) it should be ok. Hopefully the engine doesn't jump around too much when running, I guess I'll find out soon enough!

[V28VX37]

On 3/2/2016 at 7:59 PM, V28VX37 said:

^^^ Ok so I've got this issue in reverse now – front rotors wearing ok all the way except the outer edge (also outside of the disc only). Interestingly it's a similar story in the back too, perhaps even a bit more pronounced.

I just pulled the front pads and compared it to the set I chewed at Calder Park earlier this year with the stuck pistons. The Sandown set it crumbling at the edges and you can see some 'bubbles'/runs of the material on the sides – compared to these the Calder Park set looks pristine (except for the wear).

Anyway it's new pad time again, I'll give the Intima SR a go this time.

Note to self: Must Do Cooldown Laps in a Heavy Car.

[V28VX37]

Found a boost leak over the weekend, pulled most of the intake pipes and joiners out and cleaned them last night. 

Good news is, went for a test drive and the boost leak seems resolved yay. Also brake wear and pedal feel is better now after chucking in some new pads.

Bad news is, there was some coolant coming out of the overflow and it was bubbling in the overflow tank after stopping  I'm pretty sure this means a busted head gasket or warped head since the recent overheating incident at the track. Are there any other checks I should do/get done to confirm or probe further? It's really odd too as the water temp only hit just over 80 degrees so it wasn't showing anything unusual on the gauges (plus it's cold, only about 10 degrees outside).

On 8/2/2016 at 8:31 PM, V28VX37 said:

Ok some updates, the workshop had a good look over the car that the main problem they found was a leak near the Defi water temp sensor which is at the radiator top hose. Pressure test is fine, car starts and runs well, no temp issues during short test drives.

My working theory is that it may have leaked coolant from the temp sensor for a bit, run a little low and/or taken in some air, and then overheated when pushed hard. I also checked the Defi peak reading and it hit 125C at the highest, which is not good. This said the highest I saw on the OEM gauge was the 'hot' mark, the notch one down from the top end of the scale, so not off the chart.

There's still a chance that I've damaged the head gasket or warped the head but I suppose I'll just need to drive it more to find out.

....

[admS15]

Try changing the rad cap as a dodgy cap can cause what your describing. Otherwise you could do a tk test which will check for combustion gasses in the coolant. You could also do a comp test to see if anything obvious shows up.

[V28VX37]

Try changing the rad cap as a dodgy cap can cause what your describing. Otherwise you could do a tk test which will check for combustion gasses in the coolant. You could also do a comp test to see if anything obvious shows up.

Tk test? Will look into the rad cap too, thanks Bill.

[admS15]

Yeah it's actually called tee kay. There's another version called liquid intelligence. They are basically a chemical solution that reacts to combustion gas. Def try the cap first.

[V28VX37]

12 hours ago, admS15 said:

Yeah it's actually called tee kay. There's another version called liquid intelligence. They are basically a chemical solution that reacts to combustion gas. Def try the cap first.

Tee kay done, all clear. Comp test all good. Plugs all good except some minor oil residue on #2. Cooling system thoroughly inspected and bled, again. *scratches head*

Fingers crossed it runs properly on Saturday!

[admS15]

Tee kay done, all clear. Comp test all good. Plugs all good except some minor oil residue on #2. Cooling system thoroughly inspected and bled, again. *scratches head*
Fingers crossed it runs properly on Saturday!

Did you change rad cap?

[admS15]

Sounds like good news anyway[emoji106] see you out there on Saturday.

[V28VX37]

5 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Did you change rad cap?

Nope didn't, the guys at my workshop reckon it should be ok... I'll do that if this happens again.