Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lGenuine Garrett GTX 3076 twin scroll turbo with billet aluminium front wheel and anti surge front housing

.82 vband rear housing

2x Turbosmart comp gates (45mm)

2 Stainless screamer pipes with v band flanges

Custom divided steam pipe tig welded exhaust manifold with v band flanges

Gready electronic boost controller

Custom 3” 316 stainless straight through exhaust with 1 s shape muffler all tig welded

Custom 3” 316 stainless dump pipe with v band flanges and flexi join tig welded

Custom 3” 316 stainless intercooler piping with Speedflow fittings welded on

4” stainless intake pipe

4x9” K&N pod filter

Plazmaman billet intake plenum

Genuine HKS intercooler

Walboro 400l/ph in tank fuel pump

660cc injectors

Spitfire Coilpacks

Adaptronic ECU

Genuine SARD fuel pressure regulator

Triple core aluminium radiator

2L Modified Aeroflow catchcan with -10 fittings welded to the rockercovers

Turbosmart V port BOV

Stainless Radiator pipes

Genuine NARDI steering wheel with genuine daiken steel adapter

Forged GTR 33 wheels

All boost controller and waste gate lines are genuine Speedflow fittings and Braided Tefoln lines

Triptronic gearbox

Modified valvebody (done by MV AUTOS)

Billet aluminium servo (MV AUTOS)

Welshpluged 1st and 2nd gears

Twin trans coolers

Very quick solid shifts


Suspensions

32 way adjustable coilovers and adjustable camber arms


i am interested in swap for patrol 4.8 petrol or v8 lancruiser

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463589-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...