Low Ignition Timing

[Trex]

I had the same problem with my tune. Bumped the idle up via the iacv and put in almost double the timing around the cranking part of the map. It helped immensely! Massive thanks to Matt for all his help!

[fmlycar]

I have a wideband in the car all the time. Seems to be a lot leaner on initial start up than it used to be.

[admS15]

Try adding more enrichment at cold start temps. That should help with your cold start issue.

[Trex]

What ecu are you using? I am guessing the link?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Cold start, try to get afr about flat 13 and decay it as it reaches operating temp

[fmlycar]

Power fc. Once datalogit arrives I'll be able to get started.

Also goes lean on initial throttle input but comes good once throttle is steady and revs pick up

[mr skidz]

You got a shitty tune in there thats for sure.

If you need a more detailed explanation on how to get it sorted pm me your number and I can walk you through it if you like.

do you have the hand controller?

Edited March 27, 2016 by mr skidz

[fmlycar]

I have the hand controller but it's currently locked out. I should have my own copy of fc datalogit next week. I have notes of what settings were what before the tune so I should have a couple things to reference from.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

A shit tune and a locked tune.. le sighs

Too bad you aren't local, could have fixed for your for a few slabs

[fmlycar]

I have the tune file, and it's only the hand controller that's locked apparently. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

[fmlycar]

Got datalogit today so hopefully I can jump in there and check a couple things soon

[fmlycar]

Bit hard to see, but got quite a lot of knock and had to jump off it straight away. My wideband was showing 12.6@wot before I had to back off.

The issue is, why am I getting such high knock reading if there wasn't any when it was tuned the way it is now? Only thing that I have changed since having the car home is new coil packs (splitfires).

[mr skidz]

Reasons can be:

*too lean as i told you before

*maybe timing is too high

*bonnet was up with huge fan in front when tuned vs reality which is bonnet down and engine and cylinder head heat soaked to 60deg+

*or just shit tune overall

Im guessing all of the above.

I wouldn't be driving it and loading it up in that state you might be up for an engine pretty quickly

Edited April 2, 2016 by mr skidz

[hy_rpm]

I know when i had my new splitfires installed

The tuner had to recheck the base timing as sometimes it may throw it out and with a power fc or nistune base timing effects the whole range

Dont need a full retune just recheck and adjust the base timing back to std

[Ben C34]

Nah

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I know when i had my new splitfires installed

The tuner had to recheck the base timing as sometimes it may throw it out and with a power fc or nistune base timing effects the whole range

Dont need a full retune just recheck and adjust the base timing back to std

I don't recommend playing with the cas if the tune was done with the wrong Base timing.

Touch cas, redo through whole timing map

[fmlycar]

I have confirmed with tuner that timing was checked and correct so nothing to worry about there

[mr skidz]

Not hard to check timing anyway.

[XGTRX]

Tbh I would be putting in more fuel. 12.6 at wot seems borderline. You would be safer at mid to low 11 before, during and after peak torque and lean it off a bit up top.

[fmlycar]

Changed to an external gate off the factory manifold and was able to safely add in 8 degrees of timing before I heard light detonation in the ears. So backed out timing a bit and let it be. Pretty happy with the result really. Yet to run it on the dyno, but I prefer trap speed at the track.