Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy i have a 94 bnr32. looking to rebush rear lower ctrl arms, rear upper ctrl arms, rear knuckle bushes and finally the subframe bushes, rear lower shock bushes with whiteline products. has anyone fitted these? any issues? sorry to ask guys but i just would hate to order the wrong ones or ill filtting units. i hear of some horror stories from the z32 fairlady guys where some of these bushings didnt fit due wrong outside diameters.

mine were done by my mechanic when my diff bushes started clunking, it is subframe out and its a big job but your doing it the right way, do it all at once.

whiteline are good, i havnt heard much about them being bad sizes.

when you have it out look at what else you can do easily when the ass end is apart, hicas delete, swaybars, all fluids, hows the condition of your diff, boots, shafts, brakes, suspension components. its better to spend a bit more and do anything else in that area as its basically just money for parts, the labors about the same.

look at prices through KUDOS if you havnt already bout the parts. also are you pressing them out or burning them ect.

@GHO5T so did u use all the whiteline products? Do you have a bnr32? Did you have an issue with height difference with the whiteline subframe bushes? Not sure if burning or press. I would prefer to press. Did you do the rear lower ctrl arm bushings?

I did all mine with whiteline stuff recently, contact Sydneykid on these forums he has all the part numbers.

It is a job best left to a mechanic unless you want a few solid days' worth of fun. And much harder without a press

  • Like 1

OEM bushes are a major PITA to get out, aftermarket bushes go in no worries (unless they're steel sleeved). I've done front control arms and rear camber, HICAS and diff bushes 'at home' - with and without access to a workshop press - and can't recommend enough leaving it to a professional.

If you want to give it a go start with some of the arms that you can pull out of the car completely and see how you go. Getting the metal sleeve out is the worst part. Make sure you use something that matches the OD of the sleeve exactly to get it out neatly. Many people use sockets, some use a hacksaw, neither are the best for this job.

Always measure OD and ID of all bushes before commencing with the swap - my SPF diff bushes with triple-checked part number were about 1mm off (too big OD) with no chance in hell going into the subframe.

Oh and diff bushes can be done on the car if you've got special tools.

Subframe out is a big job as you need to pull the hubs off. For what you're wanting to do I'd say 1-2 days labour at a workshop so you're looking at a couple off grand for the whole rear. Or you can spend a week DIY'ing it ;)

Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...