Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm on the fence on this one. I don't see the bulk of GT-R's being collectible, only some of them and only in certain condition etc.

As was said earlier, I'm more hopeful that I've got a car that's not going to depreciate substantially during my ownership. Breaking even with a car is no mean feat.

  • Like 1

People buy not just for separate reasons or even single reasons.

People can have a favourite car for 2-4 reasons and furthermore, that combination of reasons can differ from many other mates'.

  • Like 1

I'm on the fence on this one. I don't see the bulk of GT-R's being collectible, only some of them and only in certain condition etc.

Yeah and only the rare limited edition Mustangs will become collectible..........

Now compare how many Mustangs vs GTR's there are. Something a collector of muscle cars pointed out to me a few years ago.

i can 1 up all of those..

AE86.

It's a f**king piece of shit. Look at the prices those things command.

They are not expensive at all.

A good condition, rust free and fully modded one, rear end conversion, full suspension, drive line, engine, exhaust upgrades etc can be had for $8 - 13k.

Cheap I recon.

They are not expensive at all.

A good condition, rust free and fully modded one, rear end conversion, full suspension, drive line, engine, exhaust upgrades etc can be had for $8 - 13k.

Cheap I recon.

not for a pop up headlight 86....

A good condition AE86, and by good I mean clean, rust free, no or decent quality basic bolt-on modifications, is more than $8k. You'd be lucky to find a basic original AE86 for less than $10k.

Just checked Car Sales and only two available. Both of them are close to standard with over 270k on the original engine, one for $10k the other $11k. There's one F/S on Gumtree with a few shit quality mod's and rust and the owner wants $10k. One on My105 for $15k - actually there's two, but the other one has been hacked to bits to fit an SR20DET.

A decent AE86, and by decent I mean clean, rust free, no or basic bolt-on modifications, is more than $8,000. You'd be lucky to find a basic AE86 for less than $10k.

Just checked Car Sales out of interest and only two available. Both of them are close to standard with over 270k on the original engine, one for $10k the other $11k.

and they are not pop up headlights!

Been half arsed about buying one for about a year or so and watched their prices closely. They are all about 8 to 15k.

Been eyeing this one for a while.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/84738-VIC-Fully-worked-ADM-14k

And was pretty close to getting this.

http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/84422-1984-AE86-Sprinter?p=974588#post974588

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...