Jump to content
SAU Community

Ecu + Gauges - Sensor Signal Integration


Recommended Posts

I'm just wondering what setups everyone is running in the gauges/dashes/ECU department. Who is running 1 sensor and outputting to multiple devices?

obviously in an ideal world, we would all be running full standalone with CAN bus and race dashes. For those of us without a $10k budget on electrical, there are options but seems to be a lot more effort involved making an effective and worthwhile setup.

My predicament:

Autronic SM4 with sensor inputs from: fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, air temp, MAP.

Gauges I would like to run: oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, AFR, boost.

I tried to run my existing Defi DIN gauges in parallel to the Sensor-ECU signals, but Defi gear use their own retarded voltage ranges and self-check systems which means it didnt want to play ball. I want to avoid running 2x sensors for each parameter (if possible), for what info I can find, sharing a sensor signal with ECU and gauges should work fine if both use the same ranges (eg 0-5V).

Original plan was to run Autometer gauges and AEM boost+AFR, but this 1Gauge unit I've heard about is an attractive option because it doesnt require CAN. http://1gauge.com.au/store.php

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having a look at the sensors supplied with that system, I would be asking if it is possible to change the sensors that are used. Those sensors are easily affected by external sources, as they use the engine block and chassis as the return path, and changes to the return resistance will effect the sensors. They also rely on the tension in the connector to maintain the connection, and any movement in the connector can make the connector lose contact with the sensor. The fluid pressure sensors are also prone to fail when directly mounted on an engine, as the internals are not shock mounted, and will vibrate to pieces.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having a look at the sensors supplied with that system, I would be asking if it is possible to change the sensors that are used.

Thanks for the tip.

I have all my sensors already, so wouldnt be using the supplied ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A second hand aim or racepak display dash is very cheap these days, I'd say you'd come out cash positive after selling your existing gauges. You can connect the sm4 serial directly to the dash and you're done. If you haven't already you can send the wideband to the sm4 and from there to the dash also.

Main issue is the sm4 is input limited so if you want to expand further you will need a logger dash or standalone logger (this is what I've done). As a bonus then you also get gps, accelerometers and logging.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A second hand aim or racepak display dash is very cheap these days, I'd say you'd come out cash positive after selling your existing gauges.

fair point.

I've already sold the Defi gauges, havent bought anything else yet.

This looks great, but not exactly cheap.

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/id/16586

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...