Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah shocks seem to be a bit of bitch to find ... my car came with damper adjustable KYB shocks front and rear however 1 of the rears was dead. so i tried to find replacements of the same type (KYB Damper Adjustables) but they didnt do them for the 30. so i had to make do with some Koni Red's which are rebound adjustable only, mainly for as they wear out u can tighten the rebound i think :) but i turned mine a couple of timesn eway before putting them in and they seem fine after about 5 months still.

come to think of it arent R30 rear shocks the same as S13 ? so you could buy KYB Damper adjustables to suit S13 and put them in? never thought about that at the time.

koni;s were 500 a pair i think for the rears, special order n all :) but yeh theyre quite solid still so cant complain really !

Best easily available are Bilstein B46 0157 . These were supplied specific for the DR30 in Japan . They will be expensive at 400+ a pair BUT what good is grunt if you can't keep your wheels on the ground . For those using high rate rear springs ie 200 inch/pound (mine are 235) there is a B46 0198 which is fractionally shorter with less bump damping but more rebound damping . However Sydney Suspensions would not bring them in last time I asked . You gets what you pay for ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
    • Set of knee pads for a R34. Will fit every model I think. Comes with everything except the rubber covers for the bolt holes. Still in great condition. You will need to drill holes to mount these or use double sided tape. I can do free shipping and will be shipping from the Netherlands with tracking.
    • Nistune needs something like an entire excel spreadsheet in which you build an abstraction layer that converts everything from real units you can actually measure into all of the various tables. The number of unexpected dependencies hiding in how the Nissan ECUs do math is a pretty impressive optimization trick for 8-bit MCUs but good god is it awful to actually work with in practice. 
×
×
  • Create New...