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I was having trouble with my R33 breaking down but only when I tried to run high boost (24 psi)

Running at 12 psi it was smooth and faultless so I changed plugs, fuel filter and a few other things

but nothing worked so I took it to Gavin wood and he said the coil packs were more than likely at fault.

Rather then shelling out and purchasing another set of coils OR gaping my plugs down from 1.1mm to .6mm

I did some more research and found some people in the UK were making up Acetal plates for mounting their

coils too and this was solving a range of problems for people.

The theory is that when your coils fail they are finding the easiest path to earth for the spark to travel OR when you

are running boost over 1 bar the spark can be "blown out" basically so the simple fix is to get more powerful coils

BUT

If you think harder about the problem and rather than resorting to fixing a short with "more power" to make up for it,

actually remove the path the short is going to take and you will find all your power will now go straight into your plug!!

From the minute I started the car even driving round on 12 psi it felt so much crisper and more responsive,

but the proof was being able to run 24 psi again revving clean and clear right to limiter.

Acetal or Polyoxymethylene, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability.

All you have to do is trace your alloy ones onto the Acetal plate and you can then cut them out with a jigsaw and tap the holes.

I made mine in house and would consider making up a run of these should people not wish to stuff around making their own

and would rather to just purchase them.

Hope this gives you guys another option to try at home when trying to sort out your misfires.

IMG_3698e.jpg

Edited by 85URE
  • Like 4

Very nice work! I love seeing new things being made and people thinking outside the box. BUT

I believe if your coilpacks are arcing on anything other than the plugs, you need to replace the coilpacks as they're aged and are going to fail eventually anyway.

People have been taping and using silicone on the coilpacks for years, it is a cheap and easy fix to get you around.

  • Like 2

Well said on all counts!

Sometimes when these things fail its not always at the best time for people to be able to replace them.

Cheap fixs can be the difference between people getting to work so they can then afford other options.

I'm sure making it yourself was cheap.

But how many cash bucks will this cheap fix cost people?

The cheapest way would be for people to make these themselves at a cost of $35 material and 3 hours work.

IMG_3697.jpg Best I could do for the pair would be $115.00 - Shipped Australia wide

  • Like 2

I did the exact same thing a few months ago with a drill and a jigsaw... came out ok, but these look so nice :)

About 5 weeks ago a coil pack still failed when the car got really hot.

Thanks mate :)

If you are still having troubles I read that some people don't run the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th bolt as those bolt heads are

right next to some of your packs and the bolt can then provide another short path to earth, or they

uses a large heat shrink (with glue) that covers up the stem and also seals onto the bottom of the coil pack covering

the join to the stem where they usually leak from.

All that said, failing packs will get worse over time, just depends at what stage each persons packs are up to.

Edited by 85URE
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

I got another miss, error 21. Frustrating! But I've had about enough of the quick fixes, all they've managed to do is get me to fork out more in the end. It's time to go clean and save up to get factory coils in. I feel like this sort of thing is only worthwhile if you have the mechanical skills to do it yourself.

I'm wondering if its worth swapping the plugs too. I got BCPR6ES only about five months ago so they should still be fine, but if I'm going to pay somebody to take the engine apart, I might as well do the plugs too while it's there.

You don't take the engine apart to replace coils........prob a 30 minute job and a 1/4" ratchet driver with 10mm socket and 100mm extension. Take the plugs out and clean them, gap to 0.8mm and use again. Need a plug spanner and a set of feeler gauges and a small brass brush - don't use steel.

And yeah OEM or Splitfires are the go, see whats cheapest and whats available.

Or ask for help and somebody will come for beer............not sure where Glenfield is, its a popular suburban name, there are a few.

  • Like 1

You don't take the engine apart to replace coils........prob a 30 minute job and a 1/4" ratchet driver with 10mm socket and 100mm extension. Take the plugs out and clean them, gap to 0.8mm and use again. Need a plug spanner and a set of feeler gauges and a small brass brush - don't use steel.

And yeah OEM or Splitfires are the go, see whats cheapest and whats available.

Or ask for help and somebody will come for beer............not sure where Glenfield is, its a popular suburban name, there are a few.

Cheers for the advice. I really want to learn how to do it myself, it looks like a lot of fun, plus I'd save so much money. Splitfires are about $20 each cheaper than OEMs through Kudos.

I have the non turbo R34, it's a bit more complicated to do the coils than with the RB25DET. Apparently you have to remove the intake manifold and the strut brace to get to them. There's a nice guide here which shows how to do it.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122284-r34-replacing-spark-plugs-on-neo6-rb20de-rb25de/

I do have a couple of mates who have good mechanical skills. I might ask one of them to lend me a hand.

OK, but check it out cos my intake and strut brace are in the way but I can work around them, and I leave the valley cover screw out that is directly under the intake. You can't see it and it makes it easier to do next time as well.

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