Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've gone a slightly different route with boost control on low mounts and am using a pair of turbonetics 30326 dual port wastegates on my HKS2530s and a 4 port MAC valve to suit.

2975.jpg

idea is I can run very low boost pressure in Mrs/valet mode (preload will only be around 7.5psi) but can wind in 26+psi on E85. also, having the 4 port solenoid will assist in keeping the gates clamped closed until the ECU says otherwise.

my options for the boost source for the solenoid (which is located on the passenger strut right beside the turbos) are:

1) Tap each turbo and join with a Y piece into the wastegate solenoid.

2) Tap into the intercooler piping just after the twin-turbo pipe (which has the splitter mod done)

3) Just use the signal from the intake manifold pre-throttle plates.

my considerations are: shorter hose length and closer to the turbos = better control. I figured the faster pressure response would be a good thing when the solenoid is directing pressure to the back of the actuators to keep them shut during spool

the idea is to obtain optimum boost control with agressive ramp-on.

inter cooler is a 120mm Greddy unit, so I'm not expecting significant pressure drop over it.

boost control is being done per gear, with the TPS% position generating a MAP target with an Ethanol content modifier. so 100% thottle may be 20psi on petrol but 27psi on E85.

that map target is then used in a target MAP vs RPM table that dictates the waste gate duty cycle to achieve pressure target. also under WOT conditions closed loop correction activates using PID control for minor corrections.

the ultimate would be to use two separate solenoids, one for each turbo with its own reference but you would need to monitor turbo speeds to make the most of it I think.

Edited by burn4005

The difference between 1&2 would be so small as to be unnoticeable so do whatever comes easiest out of those 2. The chances that either of them would offer you noticeably different control characteristic compared to sourcing it from the plenum are probably not much larger, but on the basis of paranoia simply rule out option 3 because it means more pipework.

  • 2 months later...

Hi mate, slightly off topic but have you actually got the twin port wastegates hooked up in the car currently? no clearance issues at all and bolt straight onto t25/t28 frame turbos with the stock bracket? i'm looking at doing the same thing ( running the 4 port solenoid) thanks!

luckily I had HKS actuators, and they are bolted to the bracket rather than welded on (I think the garrett ones are welded to the backet, so won't work):

nengun-240692-00-hks-hks_strengthened_ac

and the turbonetics ones also have the two bolts in the same place.

tnt-30326_w.jpg

they went in with a fair bit of swearing, but only an hour or so work. the support rods on the HKS brackets are in the way when you're trying to get a ring spanner on the actuator bolts, but got there in the end. rear actuator ports point outwards, front actuator ports point inwards so they don't foul the intake piping.

2c2aa82fd400ccb163ff82bdacf6c524.jpg

3c6f3e736de6d6409f28df543840937e.jpg

you also need longer actuator rods.. i got mine from GCG. you need two of the 1/4 UNF thread 80mm actuator rods for them to reach the wastegate flapper.

4 1/2 turns of preload has them making 8psi on wastegate pressure alone.

making 14psi at around 40% duty on the mac valve, and they are VERY sensitive to duty cycle changes. only a few % here and there makes a few psi difference. had a few coil issues so didn't go any higher until that's sorted.

Edited by burn4005
  • 7 years later...
On 6/15/2016 at 9:15 PM, burn4005 said:

luckily I had HKS actuators, and they are bolted to the bracket rather than welded on (I think the garrett ones are welded to the backet, so won't work):

http://u.2.cf.nengun.com/240692/nengun-240692-00-hks-hks_strengthened_actuator_set_of_2-325c2db07c.jpg

and the turbonetics ones also have the two bolts in the same place.

tnt-30326_w.jpg

they went in with a fair bit of swearing, but only an hour or so work. the support rods on the HKS brackets are in the way when you're trying to get a ring spanner on the actuator bolts, but got there in the end. rear actuator ports point outwards, front actuator ports point inwards so they don't foul the intake piping.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160405/2c2aa82fd400ccb163ff82bdacf6c524.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160405/3c6f3e736de6d6409f28df543840937e.jpg

you also need longer actuator rods.. i got mine from GCG. you need two of the 1/4 UNF thread 80mm actuator rods for them to reach the wastegate flapper.

4 1/2 turns of preload has them making 8psi on wastegate pressure alone.

making 14psi at around 40% duty on the mac valve, and they are VERY sensitive to duty cycle changes. only a few % here and there makes a few psi difference. had a few coil issues so didn't go any higher until that's sorted.

Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?

On 6/4/2024 at 11:43 PM, kevboost7 said:

Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?

it was 8 years ago who f**king knows

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...