Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just after some advice on a new Exhaust Manifold I have come across.

So, soonish I am doing a Turbo upgrade (GTX3076R .82 Rear Housing) on my RB25DET R33 Skyline, I'll be changing the Exhaust Manifold too.

I was always going to go with 6Boost as everyone knows them, they do mint work and are reputable. However my friend has recently shown me an Exhaust Manifold by the name of CRG

I've never heard of them, but they do look decent and I know of one guy here in WA using one on an 800hp R32 and he said he can't fault it

Just wondering if anyone else has heard of them and can vouch for them?

Interestingly, 6Boost advised me they can't make the Manifold Twin-Scroll in the Low-Mount as the way the runners are made makes it not possible, however CRG have advised they can do it no issues.

6Boost:

- https://www.facebook.com/6boost-145583032160562/?fref=ts

CRG:

- https://www.facebook.com/CRG-Turbo-Manifolds-577702618920673/?fref=nf

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463991-exhaust-manifolds-6boost-vs-crg/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

for rb26 use?

I recommend RAW BROKERAGE. link below very good stuff

http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-billet-twin-scroll-top-mount-turbo-manifold-rb20-rb25-rb26/

I have heard RawBrokerage is good though!
  • 2 weeks later...

for rb26 use?

I recommend RAW BROKERAGE. link below very good stuff

http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-billet-twin-scroll-top-mount-turbo-manifold-rb20-rb25-rb26/

BW EFR 8374 DID NOT FIT IN R32 AT ALL. Serious hood clearance problems.

  • 3 weeks later...

make sure you get twin scroll, and get a twin scroll housing... worth every dollar, since you're still looking or a manifold... if you want to run a single gate, merge the pulses into a single gate like this (this from a JZ, but you get the idea):

1JZ-Twinscroll_single-Main_medium.jpg?v=

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

make sure that completely split Cyl 1~3 and 4~6.. what CRG usually do is have 1x merge collector (open scroll) and just put a twin scroll flange on top.. and at times they have 2x separate pipes going out merged into 1x pipe into 1x gate (which is correct).

Pretty sure it depends what you spec, but as you said if you have a fully divide 1-3 and 4-6 but then merge them before the flange with a single dump port that's a bit silly, they need to be separated from each-other by the gate in its closed position, if you have a manifold like the jz one depicted above it needs to have a diver plate down the middle to seat on the face of the gate.

That being said i belive a shop up in T'bar is doing a back to back test of the twin scroll with open single gate vs twin scroll with twin gate manifolds, so that should be interesting when they finish that

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...