$25000 To Spend On Mods - How Far Will That Get Me?

[iron_monkey]

Now that I've got some cash I'm looking for ideas. Buy a 350Gt for less than $10K then spend $25K on mods. VQ long blocks with strong internals are quite cheap compared to say other engines (RB26, LSX, 2JZ); and a platform for using this engine is very cheap (can buy a V35 for less than $10K quid). E.g. you can get the most serious drag racing long blocks for $13KUSD in the US - modified blocks and heads to cope with 1000+HP.

A big unknown money wise is implementing the forced induction as most are for US left hand drive. From searching, theres really only one solid kit built for the AUS models, the APS kit, and that is like $20K drive in drive out....that'll quickly blow the budget...although thats inclusive of fuel system and tuning; which are large expenses on top of a turbo kit.

Thoughts? Even 25K wont get me very far wont it---engine wise? Lets not get started on the suspension, brakes, diff, shaft and trans yet.

Edited April 3, 2016 by iron_monkey

[The Max]

April Fools was two days ago dude.

[iron_monkey]

April Fools was two days ago dude.

I half expected to be shot down. I'll put the V35 in the too hard basket.

Cheers.

[junkie]

So, buy a car for 10k, spend 25k on mods, and still have a 10k car that's faster. Why not buy something better for 35k?

[iron_monkey]

So, buy a car for 10k, spend 25k on mods, and still have a 10k car that's faster. Why not buy something better for 35k?

lol thats harsh, I have no idea that the V35 platform is so bad.

Yes I can buy a fast car for $35K, but they will be high mileage and/or old and in questionable condition (e.g. GTRs, Supras, etc). At least when I throw money at stuff like a new engine/trans rebuild, I know that crucial components are new and reconditioned.

[Burger]

NOS. Two of the big ones.

I would start with a turbo kit?

[The Max]

I half expected to be shot down.

Well, to be fair, when you mentioned you've welded together go-kart frames and whatnot, I found it hard to take you seriously.

Anyway, it's not a too-hard-basket kind of thing. It's just that the vehicle itself doesn't really lend itself to any serious value in the end product. If it was something that's never been done before and could be a truly unique project, then I could understand it, to push the vehicle past its expected limits and put it to the test.

But the moment you head down the modified path, it'll never end. Something will break, you'll improve on it, it'll break again, you'll find other ways to do it better, and so on.

I did that with my old J30 Maxima back in the day, turbocharging, MoTeC M800, Level 10 auto transmission rebuild. Yeah, it was fun but when I look back on it, though it was a great learning experience, at the same time it was a colossal friggin' waste of money.

Better to put the money towards a vehicle that's designed to be in the category you've hoped for rather than just a $10k car that's built well, but not that well.

Not only that, with all the speed cameras popping up left, right and centre, that power goes to waste unless you want to beat someone from a standstill at traffic lights just to get to the next turn before them.

In the end, it's your money. If you want to fork out that cash on the vehicle, go for it.

[Hertz Donut]

My POV is that the more you're going to swap out the less it matters what the starting vehicle is. Once you've replaced the engine, trans, suspension, brakes and diff there's not too much left of what made the original car what it was mechanically. By that point about the only things the original car dictated were driveline layout (although I know plenty of FWD-RWD/4WD conversions), suspension design (Mac strut/double wishbone/leaf springs etc but again that can be changed), structural rigidity (but a decent cage can resolve that) and aesthetic appeal (which is largely irrelevant to me but some care). There's very little that can't be replaced easily on a 20-30yo car, at which point that part is now brand new and shouldn't give issues for many years to come.

Pick an end goal and find a chassis that suits it. I have an old live-axle Commodore that wouldn't be much chop as a circuit racer but being live axle, light weight and RWD it's the perfect base for a drag car (one day...*shakes fist at life getting in the way*). I used to have a Civic that wasn't much good for drag racing but with a minimum of effort was a barrel of laughs on the twisty stuff. I have a Stagea that is too much of a boat to be good at either drags or circle work without a big investment, but is a perfect cruiser and hauler.

So the big question is, what is your end goal?

Edited April 3, 2016 by Hertz Donut

[talkiet]

get a V36 370GT. near enough to 350HP standard.

Spend money on new wheels, better tyres, maybe brakes and you're done.

Cheers - N

[donburtron]

I had the same idea as you when i built my r33 and its alot more hassle than you expect.

My advise would be buy one done already or take the plunge and buy something with a blown engine or one you can pick up cheap so your not waisting money when you dont have to..

Plan your build and make sure it suits you..

I wanted a 800+Hp car but its not practical in anyway but a straight line so if your chasing power its not all its hyped up to be

[Hertz Donut]

I sometimes wonder if people considering these builds as their first project know just how much of a monster even a 400whp car can be on the street, especially if it's only through two wheels.

[Leroy Peterson]

Yep, figure out what it is you want before just dedicating a figure of money to a project.

serious: find a car that is special to you and that you will love. Modify it over a period of time. Be able to see and feel the differences every bit has made. You take something off the road and just throw money at it, you never really know what you're going to wind up with (unless racecar or you've done the build before).

Doing bolt-ons over a period of 12 months or more, you will see $25k go. People spend that kind of money on cars they never intended to modify in the first place. It is always more complicated that just "wheels and suspension". ALWAYS>WDIO{AHW{FGEOPIWDFNG

[iron_monkey]

I dont know what I really want, but nobody gets what they want anyway because money is finite. All I need to know is what can I get if I dump $25K on a car. For cars like R32-R34/Supra/Commodores/XR6Ts the answer I can find on google. Modding houses even spell out packages and stages, for $XXX dollars you get YYYY. Its all clearly laid out like a restaurant menu.

For more obscure platforms like the V35/350Z/M35 the answer isn't clear. Hence I made this thread. After I canvassed all the options, maybe I can get a better idea of where I like to go. Speaking of which - I just got a quote for $18500 for a complete drive in drive out custom twin turbo package on the V35/350Z. Of course the engine/trans might grenade at 300rwkw - properly done this looks like one needs to spend roughly $35000 (turbo+engine rebuild+ trans).

What about a M35 Stagea? Its the only VQ turbo - no need for a complete custom turbo package....need an intercooler kit, maybe bigger turbo, and fuel system - might be able to DIY this one.

Edited April 4, 2016 by iron_monkey

[admS15]

25k on an m35. f**k yeah. That would be 1 fast Hurst. Speak to scottynm35 if u want to go that route.

[Burger]

Built LS1?

[admS15]

LSA is the way. Brand new crate engines are 11.5k and cheaper if u have contacts.

[Hertz Donut]

$1K for a banger VN-VS Commodore

LSA

Built trans and diff

???

Powerskidz!

[Leroy Peterson]

What about a M35 Stagea? Its the only VQ turbo - no need for a complete custom turbo package....need an intercooler kit, maybe bigger turbo, and fuel system - might be able to DIY this one.

Ummmmm dude, Gloria/Cedric.

Proven 50% less headache than NM35. Just comes with its own fair share or unknowns, myself and a few others learning/gathering what info we can.

[iron_monkey]

How or why is the Stagea more headache than the Gloria/Cedric?

The Gloria and Cedric appear to be barges and probably weigh almost as much as the Stagea - at least the stagea has 4WD.

[Leroy Peterson]

How or why is the Stagea more headache than the Gloria/Cedric?

The Gloria and Cedric appear to be barges and probably weigh almost as much as the Stagea - at least the stagea has 4WD.

No drive by wire, more common/simple 4 speed auto, factory intake plumbing is less restrictive, no AWD simplifies things drastically electrically as well as mechanically and reduces weight. Of course it's lighter, not a wagon.

3L turbo is more torque anyway.

Obviously not as practical as a wagon though, but you don't seem bothered by that.