Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just noticing the Base map tune trim for the Haltech Platinum pro has a pretty serious addition for fuel on the high end of boost and RPM on the # 4,5 and 6 cylinders. I am assuming this is for factory coolant and intake manifold layout...

So I have a few questions:

1) Do most people zero out the fuel trims when moving to a bigger plenum? I'm running a Hypertune V2 and the coolant is all relocated out of the intake manifold collector to a separate manifold that I have made up to go back to the radiator.

2) Does anyone know a procedure for finding out HOW to tune individual injector trims?

3) Does anyone have a base map tune for single turbo with hypertune manifold?

Any ideas or comments are welcome. Thank you.

  • Like 1

Yep, would have to be EGT's though, since widebands can't handle heat of turbo manifold. Not sure I'll ever be convinced to put 6 EGT sensors in the manifold.

if you checked your spark plugs you'll notice 4-5-6 run hotter (look cleaner) naturally being at the back, SR20's run hotter naturally on 3-4.

you can as an option use colder plugs in 4-5-6 to manage heat and zero those trims back, but I'd be leaving it as is unless you have a means of measuring it other than reading the plugs and comparing 1 to 6.

my 2c

Edited by mr skidz

I know the factory head manifold design is such that coolant just doesn't circulate well through the back of the head and those cylinders run a bit hotter than the fronts. If you think about it, the coolant from the pump has to fight friction losses all the way to the back and likely is taking the path of least resistance by exiting up front first. Also while it's traveling to the rear of the head it's constantly absorbing heat from the head and block. If you look at the factory HEATER EXIT port in the Right side of the block, it's exiting on the rear of the engine. It also constantly recirculates to the back of the water pump regardless of the thermostat position (ie-constant circulation hot or cold). I've wondered if this was plumbed this way to constantly have the water pump draw fluid from the back of the block to promote circulation (ie reduced stagnation) there.

You can see this clearly in the intake manifold design. I have attached some annotated drawings showing the original manifold, the block heater / coolant bypass piping made up on my engine, and the Hypertune 1 and 2 manifolds.

It would be nice to introduce colder temp coolant towards the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be putting a coolant temp sensor in the rear of the block so I can log this with the Haltech later. May show us some good information.

Patrick

post-136202-0-47953200-1459968602_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-42811900-1459968616_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-34314400-1459968627_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-99502000-1459968634_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29561500-1459968642_thumb.jpg

I don't think it a good idea to have the coolant running through the inlet manifold like that on a 2000+ dollar race manifold. I would rather modify a greddy copy to suit a singe throttle body. Heaps cheaper. Maybe if it had a revised coolant flow system like a tube similar to the member above and runners that went all the way to the head. But that would prolly cost a small fortune

Edited by gmchaser

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

I personally would install 6x EGTs

Load up the car lightly on the dyno say around 100kPA or a little more at 3k RPM or so and adjust fuel accordingly so the EGTs are about the same across all 6.

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

It's in their base map tunes. I'll screenshot the tables in a min

Haltech Platinum Pro plugin factory basemap for R32 GT-R fuel injector trim tables.

Injectors 1-3 are zero trim

Injectors 4,5 and 6 are all different and increase in fuel added percentage on top end of tables. The highest realistic is around 2% for cylinder 6.

post-136202-0-26618300-1460599864_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-92728000-1460599870_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-36661800-1460599876_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-81261800-1460599881_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

I'm with you. My injector set had a sheet with all the flows. I'm putting the higher ones in the rear.

I'll do a few top end pulls and cut power to check plugs to make sure everything is still good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
×
×
  • Create New...