Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just noticing the Base map tune trim for the Haltech Platinum pro has a pretty serious addition for fuel on the high end of boost and RPM on the # 4,5 and 6 cylinders. I am assuming this is for factory coolant and intake manifold layout...

So I have a few questions:

1) Do most people zero out the fuel trims when moving to a bigger plenum? I'm running a Hypertune V2 and the coolant is all relocated out of the intake manifold collector to a separate manifold that I have made up to go back to the radiator.

2) Does anyone know a procedure for finding out HOW to tune individual injector trims?

3) Does anyone have a base map tune for single turbo with hypertune manifold?

Any ideas or comments are welcome. Thank you.

  • Like 1

Yep, would have to be EGT's though, since widebands can't handle heat of turbo manifold. Not sure I'll ever be convinced to put 6 EGT sensors in the manifold.

if you checked your spark plugs you'll notice 4-5-6 run hotter (look cleaner) naturally being at the back, SR20's run hotter naturally on 3-4.

you can as an option use colder plugs in 4-5-6 to manage heat and zero those trims back, but I'd be leaving it as is unless you have a means of measuring it other than reading the plugs and comparing 1 to 6.

my 2c

Edited by mr skidz

I know the factory head manifold design is such that coolant just doesn't circulate well through the back of the head and those cylinders run a bit hotter than the fronts. If you think about it, the coolant from the pump has to fight friction losses all the way to the back and likely is taking the path of least resistance by exiting up front first. Also while it's traveling to the rear of the head it's constantly absorbing heat from the head and block. If you look at the factory HEATER EXIT port in the Right side of the block, it's exiting on the rear of the engine. It also constantly recirculates to the back of the water pump regardless of the thermostat position (ie-constant circulation hot or cold). I've wondered if this was plumbed this way to constantly have the water pump draw fluid from the back of the block to promote circulation (ie reduced stagnation) there.

You can see this clearly in the intake manifold design. I have attached some annotated drawings showing the original manifold, the block heater / coolant bypass piping made up on my engine, and the Hypertune 1 and 2 manifolds.

It would be nice to introduce colder temp coolant towards the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be putting a coolant temp sensor in the rear of the block so I can log this with the Haltech later. May show us some good information.

Patrick

post-136202-0-47953200-1459968602_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-42811900-1459968616_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-34314400-1459968627_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-99502000-1459968634_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29561500-1459968642_thumb.jpg

I don't think it a good idea to have the coolant running through the inlet manifold like that on a 2000+ dollar race manifold. I would rather modify a greddy copy to suit a singe throttle body. Heaps cheaper. Maybe if it had a revised coolant flow system like a tube similar to the member above and runners that went all the way to the head. But that would prolly cost a small fortune

Edited by gmchaser

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

I personally would install 6x EGTs

Load up the car lightly on the dyno say around 100kPA or a little more at 3k RPM or so and adjust fuel accordingly so the EGTs are about the same across all 6.

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

It's in their base map tunes. I'll screenshot the tables in a min

Haltech Platinum Pro plugin factory basemap for R32 GT-R fuel injector trim tables.

Injectors 1-3 are zero trim

Injectors 4,5 and 6 are all different and increase in fuel added percentage on top end of tables. The highest realistic is around 2% for cylinder 6.

post-136202-0-26618300-1460599864_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-92728000-1460599870_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-36661800-1460599876_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-81261800-1460599881_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

I'm with you. My injector set had a sheet with all the flows. I'm putting the higher ones in the rear.

I'll do a few top end pulls and cut power to check plugs to make sure everything is still good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...