Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good morning everyone.

I am about to embark on a build to make 450awkw. The car is a 1990 gtr.

The mod List so far:

Power fc D-Jetro

800cc Sard Injectors

Trust Drag intercooler

Custom intake piping

Custom Exhaust

A/M Turbos (Searching by the serial number they came up as a "Le-Mans" turbo 330-350hp each)

twin plate clutch

Hicas Gone

350awhp

The car developed a leak in the headgascket. it was still drivable but due to various family reasons, it has been garaged for about 4 years. I am now in the position to give it a lease on life and if after the build it sparks a fire under my ass, I will keep building it. if it doesn't then it should be very easy to sell once finished.

the plan:

2.8L stroker (want to keep the 86.5mm bore for strength reasons and leaning towards the Spool kit.)

270ish by 10.5ish cams on both sides

low mount roller bearinbg turbos

cure for the oil issues via a bigger sump

and if the gear box goes, an os 5 speed rebuild.

The question:

With so many strokers out there, is it really worth while spending the money on a top of the range kit or will a $5-$6k kit be ok for my power needs?

will my 800cc injectors be up to the task?

will low mount turbos (want to stay low mount for police reasons) able to deliver the flow needed for 450awkw?

I tried to search some reviews or comparisons on stroker kits and it seems that in general there really isnt a bad one. As with any build, I dont really want to spend the money on a kit that is rated for 1500hp if I dont need to.

Thank you in advance for all and any advice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/
Share on other sites

Why such long duration cams? no real benefit.

A GTX3582 in twin scroll, twin gates will be a good choice with fantastic response on a stroker.

It seems that around that duration I will get even better mid range torque and response. As for the torbos, I was really hoping to have something that bolts on to std manifolds Edited by khezz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707576
Share on other sites

It seems that around that duration I will get even better mid range torque and response.

You mean you'll get more lag and shift the mid range higher up the RPM..

Longer duration cams are not the answer to getting better response or making better mid range.. Yes you will make more torque yes you'll make more power but not where you want it.. and that's nice and early.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707588
Share on other sites

You mean you'll get more lag and shift the mid range higher up the RPM..

Longer duration cams are not the answer to getting better response or making better mid range.. Yes you will make more torque yes you'll make more power but not where you want it.. and that's nice and early.

Something we can agree on, Unigroup Engineering do a 260x10.85mm custom cams, I have just fitted a pair of these and they are a good peice of gear

GTX2863Rs cores can be fitted to your Nismo turbos, are a good match for a 2.8 and will easy make north of 450rwkw with the right supporting mods providing they are the .60 front covers

800cc injector may cover you on 98 but not on E85 and with the SS injectors available I would and did go that way, ID1300s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707591
Share on other sites

I am happy to stay with 98ron fuel. E85 is still not that readily available in Perth. So for cams stay 10.5 lift or more but keep duration under 270. Got it.

Is there an I tank pump that will give me enough flow? Has a Bosch in tank now but I know it won't cut it.

Wow. Thanks for all the info.

What about my choice of stroker kit? Spool ok?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707613
Share on other sites

Walbro 450L F9000267 by TI Automotive will do it.. just need to wire it up to at least a 30amp relay and at 25amp fuse on some decent wiring.

get 260 degree cams (there abouts) like the other boys....

yes big duration cams go brap brap brap brap at the lights.. but when you get flogged by a Golf GTI it's embarrassing .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707620
Share on other sites

It seems that around that duration I will get even better mid range torque and response. As for the torbos, I was really hoping to have something that bolts on to std manifolds

You will get reversion through the exhaust with the overlap too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707654
Share on other sites

GTX2863Rs cores can be fitted to your Nismo turbos, are a good match for a 2.8 and will easy make north of 450rwkw with the right supporting mods providing they are the .60 front covers

I would rather go for a pair of new turbos. In my limited experience old turbos are just that, old turbos. What ever happened to the t517z and t618z turbos?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707678
Share on other sites

I would rather go for a pair of new turbos. In my limited experience old turbos are just that, old turbos. What ever happened to the t517z and t618z turbos?

New turbos (from Full-Race Geoff):

- when a tall RB30 block is used, I suggest twin EFR6758 (or twin EFR7163 depending on fuel and boost target). The twin EFR setups are not for everyone - there is more piping/lines/two turbos ... twin EFRs fit better than a large single in these cars - and for a responsive 750hp there is nothing that can touch this. We make the downpipes and charge pipe so this is a bolton affair to replace the existing -5s

nissan-rb26dett-efr-twin-turbo-kit-1-con

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707685
Share on other sites

I would rather go for a pair of new turbos. In my limited experience old turbos are just that, old turbos. What ever happened to the t517z and t618z turbos?

they're junk, pieces of shit.. even a single one on a SR20 (which I mainly play with) are horse shit.. make crap all power and lag.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707690
Share on other sites

the best, read all you twin fan boys:

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/differences_between_turbos

Quote (also the best): "In most cases, for top performance, a single turbo is preferable because larger turbos are generally more efficient than smaller turbos. However, often there is not room for one large single, or the tuner wants the visual impact of twin turbos."

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464074-rb28-build/#findComment-7707694
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...