Rb28 Build

[XKLABA]

4 different reasons.Point being as the poster a few posts up above said, your engine is only as good as the person who built it. And the more custom things you do, the more you are reliant on how good your builder is to get it right. I had this exact option many years ago, in the hands of someone who was very highly rated on this very forum, at the time.Put another stock engine in, or for very little money go forged which will surely last longer.And for not even that much more, why not use a 2.9 kit? I mean, it's apart, and it seems like sound logic.Sure, if the builder is great your RB28 can still be fantastic.But yeah. It doesn't always end up that way.As a result, I am a proponent of staying off the unknown path as much as possible. Saving Engine rebuild money and putting it into DIff, Brakes, Suspension, Tyres, and track time will result in a faster car, even if you make 320kw on -9's instead of 450KW on a 28 or a 30 on a nice twin scroll single.One of the cars will be left in the dust in the above example and it won't be the 26.

Yeah that sucks, it's one of the reasons I build my own engines, it really is the logical choice while the engine is apart anyway aslong as the engine builder has a clue

As for faster that depends on what your doing with the car, at the drags the 2.8-3.0 will handsdown be quicker for the same setup and on the track brakes suspension and seat time will only get you so far till you will need more power to go faster which brings you right back to strokers and turbo/s which could have been done while it was apart

[sneakey pete]

You could also make the observation that none of those 4 times were due to the stroker itself, and good condition used motors to drop in are probably getting a tad hard to find

[r32-25t]

4 different reasons.

Point being as the poster a few posts up above said, your engine is only as good as the person who built it. And the more custom things you do, the more you are reliant on how good your builder is to get it right. I had this exact option many years ago, in the hands of someone who was very highly rated on this very forum, at the time.

Put another stock engine in, or for very little money go forged which will surely last longer.

And for not even that much more, why not use a 2.9 kit? I mean, it's apart, and it seems like sound logic.

Sure, if the builder is great your RB28 can still be fantastic.

But yeah. It doesn't always end up that way.

As a result, I am a proponent of staying off the unknown path as much as possible. Saving Engine rebuild money and putting it into DIff, Brakes, Suspension, Tyres, and track time will result in a faster car, even if you make 320kw on -9's instead of 450KW on a 28 or a 30 on a nice twin scroll single.

One of the cars will be left in the dust in the above example and it won't be the 26.

greg?

[Borci88]

lmao cmon Greg build a bridge, I know you got burned hard over and over again but you're always bagging out your built motor or your decisions in every mechanical post you make, and it was just a bad bad spate of bad luck. You could do it all over again and it be perfect from the get go.

[HarrisRacing]

I'll share mine when I get back to the house. Still working on it and have done all the work myself save for machining the head for the valves and installing valve guides. Yes it's expensive. The hypertune V2 was by far my biggest adder of costs and potential headaches so far. Haven't touched the trans yet!

OK I know a lot of people wouldn't publish such information, but for the sake of clarity to those planning on building their own RB26 I'll share my ACTUAL costs. I am not even sure that everyone can get the deals on the parts I did, but my brother owns a shop AND the AUD is down to the USD so some things I was offered significant discount for over list pricing. I am NOT advertising prices for these parts, nor do I intend cut any shops throats on the deal so I'll leave WHERE I got them from out of it. This is ME doing ALL of the work and on my brand new N1 block the bores were so perfect that they literally did not even require honing even for the CP pistons (ordered at my bore size and they made them with the correct clearance).

A couple more caveats about the build and "rebuilding your RB26". My block had 120k on it, but a rough life clearly - the crank was DESTROYED like the whole engine was starved for oil. And the block had the hairline cracks on in the top of the deck from the water jacket to the head stud holes (maybe not a serious issue, but this did give me the idea that this was too brittle for High HP use.

So I would factor in a new block and a new crank no matter what unless you have the time to have yours taken down, magnafluxed and checked over very well.

Also I was DEFINITELY factor in new valve bronze valve guides. One of mine was chipped off completely! So if you are going this far then you already know I'm going to recommend at least a factory SS replacement valve and head porting as well (no sense in spending all this money and effort not to get some increase in performance).

Ok there's your slippery slope...There are other various fittings, parts, etc to make this work. I would say EASILY detract $2800 if not going with the Hypertune manifold.

All of my prices are in USD! All engine controls, injectors, fuel pump, wiring, fuel lines, regulator etc not on this list.

[SimonR32]

What head studs are $200? ARP2000 are double that!

[GRKGTR]

I'll just leave this here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvKH-BYQcoM

[r32-25t]

What head studs are $200? ARP2000 are double that!

cause it hasn't got Australia tax on it

[HarrisRacing]

What head studs are $200? ARP2000 are double that!

Yep. ARP 2000. If you look at the string of values where the initial costs differ from final they are all from one order where the guy knocked off some more money for such a large order. I found that when spending more than $2k at a time people would almost instantly offer 10% discount. Sometimes more.

[drgtr7]

So what have you decided mate? (op)

[khezz]

Sorry Guys. I have been away for a little while.

 

Wow allot of new info on the thread. Thank you very much every one. I am going to stay with the 2.6L. After speaking to my chosen builder and showing him my old dyno graphs he explained to me that once the engine is properly built with turbos that are roller bearing and cams and everything properly flowing, the 2.6 will not only make more power but will be allot less laggy then it is now. I have 340-360hp old school turbos hanging of a standard head with standard cams. The turbos are an old Garret unit known as the Le Mans turbos. I am trying to find out if these can be rebuilt/high-flowed with modern bearing cores. Add that to big lift cams and some head work, the engine feel and drive completely differently to how it drives now. Leave some money in the kitty for diffs, clutch, gearbox, tail shaft, axles, suspension or what ever brakes next. Plus I am pretty sure that once built, it will take some time for me to learn how to drive this thing again.

If in time I do decide to go for mega power, I will not cut any corners. Whats the point of buying expensive, brand new internals onpy to put them in an old worn out 20+ year old block. No, I would go for a full brand new 3.0L or bigger built bottom end from some one like Pro gtr Motorsport. Yes it will cost and arm and a leg but you do it once and do it right.

[Piggaz]

Don't bother mucking around with the Le Mans nuggets. Sell them off and buy a set of -5's or something if you're going twins.

[khezz]

I am surrenderring to the idea of new turbos. But while I have time might as well explore all options.

[sneakey pete]

Having got my crank in the block and having seen it the spool 28 is a work of art. The 12 counterweight vs 6 design should cut down on rotational inertia despite the extra mass, so it should spin up quite nicely.

[khezz]

it was just explained to me how laggy my car is. So inlight of this new information. Taking lag out of the formula, are there any good quality, modern low mount turbos that would flow enough to give me 600awhp on 98ron fuel on a 2.6L motor?

[mr skidz]

600awhp on pump really is single turbo territory.

[khezz]

So just an update

Car is going in next week. Will stay with the 2.6L capacity. I have been convinced to run E85. Since the car will be a weekender rather then a daily driver. Plus I can always say that I am going out to get fuel and go for an hour round trip to the petrol station. The decision came down to cost. Even though the stroker kits are relatively cheap, it will push the price up of everything else that follows. If I am speding all that extra money on the bottom end then I would need to spend more money on the head work to match the extra revs that it will be capabable of. If I am doing that then why nod go for a big single turbo to make the most out of the engine's capabilities. Then that means engineering certes which are very pricey here in WA. The its more plates in the clutch, even stronger gear box and even more money on the drive line. The cost runs along the rest of the car at an expenensial rate. As it is, I can have a good bottom end, good head/cam, nice discreat under bonnet twin setup that will still push 600-700hp at all 4 wheels. And do it gently enough to not destroy the rest of the car.

The last choice is still the torbos. Do I go the 2860-5 which will make 600awhp on E85 but thats about it or do I go to the GTX which will make 650awhp with comfort but a little more lag.

Thank you all so much for all your help. After not reading a thing about GTRs for 3 years, i feel like I have learnt a shit load.

Once the car is being wokred on, I will start a built thread and update it as often as I can.

[tricstar]

Sounds like you've made your decision. And each to there own.!
Have you been in a stocker with a modern single ?
Cause your about to spend ALOT of money on standard capacity with less response and less power?

[tricstar]

Sounds like you've made your decision. And each to there own.!
Have you been in a stroker with a modern single ?
Cause your about to spend ALOT of money on standard capacity with less response and less power?


That was meant to say stroker not stocker!

[khezz]

Problem with going to single is in WA the car will need to go through the engineering process. That's 1500-2000 on its own. Also looking at the single kits, I would need to change a few things manifold, exhaust piping, inter cooler piping, oil/water lines, etc. with twin low mounts, all. Need to get is the turbos. Everything else will stay the same. Cost and law my friend. But I see your point to.