Rb28 Build

[HarrisRacing]

So go a 30 then. Why skimp out on 200cc on next to nothing,

Rather sell the 26 less what u need, get a 30 get it built and $ to play with. You can get a fully forged and assembled 30 bottom end for 4k which is less than the parts of stroker kit.

Any each to their own I suppose. Choices, choices and more choices. We are pretty blessed to have so many options.

If you BC stroker you can get to 2.9L especially if you are already planning on cutting your stock block. You don't have to deal with the headache of taller deck height. If I were going 3.0 block I would plan on getting that into the 3.3 or 3.4L zone anyway...I mean using your logic, why stop there? (And trust me I'm all about cubes!).

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-stroker-kits/nissan/nissan-rb34/spool-nissan-rb30-stroker-crank-kit

[Hattori Hanzo 69]

that's unlike josh not to recommend a stroker,

I went in for a stock rebuild using HKS GTSS twins, 2 years and several $ later had a completely rebuilt car.

end of the day he would have provided a tailored solution to what you want, budget, use, etc

[r32-25t]

So go a 30 then. Why skimp out on 200cc on next to nothing,

Rather sell the 26 less what u need, get a 30 get it built and $ to play with. You can get a fully forged and assembled 30 bottom end for 4k which is less than the parts of stroker kit.

Any each to their own I suppose. Choices, choices and more choices. We are pretty blessed to have so many options.

ive done a 30 and the extra cost of machining and actually making it for ends up out weighing the extra cost of the stroker kit

[khezz]

The extra cubes is the issue. 2.6 to 2.8 is in real life only a 7.5% increase in displacement. So you go to 3.0 or 3.2 or 3.4. Before you know it, I just ended up having a conversation about a $40K+ engine build. It blows out of preportion very quickly. I wont see enough benefit going from 2.6 to 2.8. Ill admit I havent spoken to every one but from the conversations I have had with builders, quality buit 3L or bigger bottom end will set me back over $10K. YOu guys keep forgetting that I am in WA. Shipping costs to us are very very high. Then its the effort of making it fit. then the head and the rest. I am not chasing that much power. If I want huge dyno figures and little to no lag, Ill do more mods to my F6. I can make my power levels, reliably and with acceptable lag with a 2.6L and the money ill save will still go towards the car but just in other areas.

Oh and I do realise that I have done a complete 180 since I have started this post. But I came here to be educated and I have.

[XGTRX]

The extra cubes is the issue. 2.6 to 2.8 is in real life only a 7.5% increase in displacement. So you go to 3.0 or 3.2 or 3.4. Before you know it, I just ended up having a conversation about a $40K+ engine build. It blows out of preportion very quickly. I wont see enough benefit going from 2.6 to 2.8. Ill admit I havent spoken to every one but from the conversations I have had with builders, quality buit 3L or bigger bottom end will set me back over $10K. YOu guys keep forgetting that I am in WA. Shipping costs to us are very very high. Then its the effort of making it fit. then the head and the rest. I am not chasing that much power. If I want huge dyno figures and little to no lag, Ill do more mods to my F6. I can make my power levels, reliably and with acceptable lag with a 2.6L and the money ill save will still go towards the car but just in other areas.

Oh and I do realise that I have done a complete 180 since I have started this post. But I came here to be educated and I have.

Pretty much.

I think there is a misconception that a built 26 performs the same as a stocker. Worlds apart if done right. And the other driveline/suspension mods to suit your application makes for a very fast and efficient car.

[Piggaz]

Pretty much.

I think there is a misconception that a built 26 performs the same as a stocker. Worlds apart if done right. And the other driveline/suspension mods to suit your application makes for a very fast and efficient car.

If you have the standard comp ratio, how does a built 2.6 drive any different to a stocker? A bit of a tickle on the head and a set of bump stock can be done to a stock bottom end?

How does a set of pistons and some rods allow the engine to make more low end twist?

Plenty of people making over and above 400 kW with the OEM engine. Simon from WA, Reaper here in NSW (470 kW using a 8374). If they "rebuilt it" with some Pistons and rods, how or why would the power delivery change? (Barring compression ratio increases)

If the engine is still healthy, leave it alone. Rebuilding a 2.6 is like buying a box of rotten bananas. It's a little cheaper but they are garbage.

2.6 = stock engine or healthy wrecker, built engine = stroker. Costs not much more.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Yes capacity increase by a bee's dick but you have a longer stroke... now what that does is makes more torque lower down which in turns promotes earlier spool of twin dinosaurs.

I personally would leave your motor alone (if it's still ok), spend the money on a new head gasket, ARP2000 studs, sensible cams, a proper TS setup with a a GTX3582R or even a GTX3576 and call it a day.

Money left over for better suspension, nicer seats, hookers and cocaine.

............and in the event it needs to be rebuilt, stroke the karnt.

[niZmO_Man]

I mean using your logic, why stop there? (And trust me I'm all about cubes!).

Yep, V8.

[XGTRX]

If you have the standard comp ratio, how does a built 2.6 drive any different to a stocker? A bit of a tickle on the head and a set of bump stock can be done to a stock bottom end?

How does a set of pistons and some rods allow the engine to make more low end twist?

Plenty of people making over and above 400 kW with the OEM engine. Simon from WA, Reaper here in NSW (470 kW using a 8374). If they "rebuilt it" with some Pistons and rods, how or why would the power delivery change? (Barring compression ratio increases)

If the engine is still healthy, leave it alone. Rebuilding a 2.6 is like buying a box of rotten bananas. It's a little cheaper but they are garbage.

2.6 = stock engine or healthy wrecker, built engine = stroker. Costs not much more.

I am talking about an overall package. Heads, cams, bottom end, oil pump etc etc. Fully built not just a set of forgies.

Just because the pump is the same capacity doesn't mean it is as efficient.

But looking at what the OP stated in the above post, I think it is very wise to make the decision to put more effort into drive line, brakes and suspension if he wants to track it, and if he reaches a stage in the future that he needs more low end torque then so be it... But I doubt it.

Anyway each to there own, not getting into this debate again, I think it's been thrashed out enough in other threads.

What the OP should do is maybe drive/passenger all three and make a choice as nothing is better than a bum on seat experience.

Can't make a wrong choice if its the choice you want to make, all of them are winners IMHO.

[SimonR32]

If you have the standard comp ratio, how does a built 2.6 drive any different to a stocker? A bit of a tickle on the head and a set of bump stock can be done to a stock bottom end?

How does a set of pistons and some rods allow the engine to make more low end twist?

Plenty of people making over and above 400 kW with the OEM engine. Simon from WA, Reaper here in NSW (470 kW using a 8374). If they "rebuilt it" with some Pistons and rods, how or why would the power delivery change? (Barring compression ratio increases)

If the engine is still healthy, leave it alone. Rebuilding a 2.6 is like buying a box of rotten bananas. It's a little cheaper but they are garbage.

2.6 = stock engine or healthy wrecker, built engine = stroker. Costs not much more.

Stock 2.6 FTW! Then you hit 3 years of hard motorsport and cry when it dies... Then you realise that most built motors don't even last that long and you have saved enough from not building a motor to buy a Golf R as a daily

Edited April 13, 2016 by SimonR32

[sneakey pete]

There's issues with the 30 fitting into a r32, engine number changes, sump adapting etc that means its not a clear progression of 26<28<30.

[GTSBoy]

Not to mention that a 30 blocked engine doesn't fit into a 32 without bashing shit around.

[33GTRV]

If you want to build a proper responsive donk, theres more to it than just cubes. Dont be a pussy, go the stroker, then get a GOOD engine builder to build it, mild head work, a properly dialled set of small duration mediocre lift cams and tune it accordingly. I made 500kw on a run in tune and made 36psi by 4200 with a 6466. How? I know how to build a donk, dial a donk and know when enough is enough. Well, nearly. Split the block in 2 as i got greedy with cam timing and a hunger for torque. What im getting at is this, internet engine builders build 6500hp rbs that run on pump 95. Real engine builders tell you what to do and have the engines to prove it. If a builder tuner is busy and you dont like the time frame he can do it in, remember this. He is busy for a reason, he is probably highly sought after and ski.led. the ultratune down the road might be able to fit it in next week though...

[NISR32.5]

Ok so I have been contemplating doing this for a while now also. I have spoken to a few engine builders and still cant decide what to do, some stay 2.6 some say stroke! If I Stay 2.6 and spend less money (more money left over for my 240z motor) or stroke it to 2.8-2.9?

This thread has some great points. I have never driven a GTR with a stroker or any built 3.0L motors. My old 26 had 332kw on 21psi with -5 turbos, power fc, nismo injectors, cam gears, smallish exhaust, N1 oil pump. The car was fun, a little laggy but once on song it felt great.

Had it on 3 different dynos (first 2 tunes, last one power run when a mates evo was being tuned) and made similar power on each dyno. Unfortunately the last time it was on the dyno the operator said it was running a little rich and changed a few settings on the power fc and a coiuple of months later I ended up with low comp on the 6TH cylinder........CRACKED RINGLAND! Dont know if it was because he messed with the tune or it could have been coming all along. Whats done is done. Everthing else looks fine on my motor.

Now I want some of the stroker gurus honest opinions to tell me what they think about this motor that was just finished being built. The engine builder does great work and Im thinking of using him for my build. He used to work for the gibson motorsport team as a mechanic, knows his GTR's and old datsuns. The latest engine is in a 260z, specs below

Built by Peter Mcdonnel

Tuned by Les Collins Racing (engine dyno)

Final tune GT AUTO

RB26DETT

CpPistons 8.5 compression ratio (was originally built for pump fuel)

Spool Rods

Mild Race Ported Head

1mm Oversize valves

Supertec springs

Custom clive cams 272 10.5 LIFT Camshafts

Modified N1 oil pump with external pickup

ATI 1000hp balancer

High octane ignition pickup kit

Spitfire coils

Garret 2860 -5 turbos

Tomei dumps

Ceramic Coated 3.5 Inch Oval Exhaust

Motec M84 ecu

Run in tune on the engine dyno it made 609hp

Final tune on GT AUTO's dyno 400kw on 22psi Pump fuel

506kw on 24psi E85

video here https://www.facebook.com/GTAUTOGARAGE/videos/10153623161916523/

Pictures Below. If you want to see more of peters work check out this page, great stuff

https://www.instagram.com/petermcdonnell65/

[33GTRV]

Did i read 506kw on -5s? That im doubtful of. Its honestly not that much more to go a stroker. Chat with brad at spool. He can do a whole kit for a bloody good price. As for the motor above id change a couple of things, but this is all relevant to my experience. Not saying the guys not on to it. Id look into more compression, smaller duration camshafts, look into a morristech ignitor (these things are kickass and great for e85 and boost) and stroke it. Go a single, weather it be a precision or a borgwarner is up to you and your power goals. If you want the best possible low down driveability go a bw with a tight cam setup and enjoy the buckets of low down torque. If you want great torque and epic powers go a precision and a minimum 4inch from the trubro back

[sneakey pete]

506 is on a hub dyno.

Car was at the drags last week though I don't know what mph it ran.

[Piggaz]

what 33GTRV said.

[NISR32.5]

The motor above was built for pump fuel and later decided to use e85. I would love to go with a single but already have the -5's and singles aren't allowed in SA without a heap of engineering and head aches.

My aim is to build a decent motor that is reliable.

Yes 506kw was on a hub dyno.

I don't want to build a 40k motor lol

[Piggaz]

It won't cost 40 k to stroke it.

[NISR32.5]

Haha I know but by the time you add everything up it will be close to 20