Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can u pretty please list all the mods up to stage 27 dosepipe. Thanks your a legend[emoji3]

ah shietttt

step 3.. install ebc

step 4.. increase boost

step 5.. add more boost

step 6.. might as well pull off actuator hose

step 7.. get new ecu

step 8.. enable anti lag

step 9.. add more retard

step 10.. increase length of dose pipe

step 11.. add more bends for dose pipe

step 12.. increase length of intercooler piping

step 13.. buy a massive intercooler for no reason

step 14.. convert to e85, prolong life of dose motor

step 15.. buy new turbo

step 16.. external gate setup

step 17.. I'm out of ideas

step 27.. get a 4" dose pipe

  • Like 2

I'm a little tipsy.. didn't eat lunch just drank instead.. waiting till 3pm so it's more "appropriate" take beers out of the beer fridge and drink some more.

NOt to mention I came to work hung over from a bender last night..

  • Like 1

step 28: decat

step 29: run straight thru exhaust with no mufflers for a F#ck off loud exhaust cause race car

step 30: put cap on backwards and nodd to chick's throwing wet panties...

step 31: tell fat chicks you cant let them ride, they to heavy lolj

step 32: play "riden dirty song" ,

yeah fu#ken lol.. hahahah

Edited by AngryRB

f**k me. One of them is your very own thread from 2 f**king years ago!

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445235-when-is-a-aftermarket-fuel-pressure-regulator-needed/

loooool.....come on OP, how can you expect to get serious help now, when you're asking the same shit 2 years later? It's not even a big decision, and I can't believe you've read that much conflicting information to make it that much a tougher choice. I'll help though - don't add a variable that doesn't need to be there. I had a tuner that thought it would be a good idea to wind up the base pressure so much that as soon as the rate rose under boost it would overload the fuel pump and pressure would drop, not raise, via the relief valve - even though my 550cc injectors were large enough that only a small increase in base pressure that was needed. And so I have to try and tell this experienced (and yes, he was a reputable, knowledgable and experienced tuner in all other aspects) why this doesn't seem to be a good idea. And yes after I got over the novelty of having a shiny adjustable FPR, I went to a larger 800cc injector and back to stock FPR....better in every aspect.

loooool.....come on OP, how can you expect to get serious help now, when you're asking the same shit 2 years later? It's not even a big decision, and I can't believe you've read that much conflicting information to make it that much a tougher choice. I'll help though - don't add a variable that doesn't need to be there. I had a tuner that thought it would be a good idea to wind up the base pressure so much that as soon as the rate rose under boost it would overload the fuel pump and pressure would drop, not raise, via the relief valve - even though my 550cc injectors were large enough that only a small increase in base pressure that was needed. And so I have to try and tell this experienced (and yes, he was a reputable, knowledgable and experienced tuner in all other aspects) why this doesn't seem to be a good idea. And yes after I got over the novelty of having a shiny adjustable FPR, I went to a larger 800cc injector and back to stock FPR....better in every aspect.

For one, I know a lot more about cars now then I did two years ago. So I know more of what to ask now. Also for every argument for having a FPR, I find one against. This is searching on forums from different countries, etc.

Also on this site in the RB20 Turbo upgrades with Dyno results section, there are lots of people with FPR's in their build. So no one has a definite answer.

Thanks for your take on it.

Edited by yoshiii335

For one, I know a lot more about cars now then I did two years ago. So I know more of what to ask now. Also for every argument for having a FPR, I find one against. This is searching on forums from different countries, etc.

Also on this site in the RB20 Turbo upgrades with Dyno results section, there are lots of people with FPR's in their build. So no one has a definite answer.

There are lots of people like you who buy things without knowing why.

  • Like 1

There are lots of people like you who buy things without knowing why.

Wrong,

There are people like me who don't buy a thing unless I know I need it and I know about.

How about you ask if I do before you assume.

Dont assume, you know the old saying with that word right?

So everyone, you know the Disney movie Frozen? Well you know the main hit song? How about all of you who keep with the smart remarks just..."Let it go, Let it go.........."

I got the info I needed early on in the thread, in fact I haven't checked this thread since last week.

Move on, I have.

Admins, please close this thread it you will.

Thank you for those who helped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!
    • Wanting to avoid this if possible but kinda looking like I may not have a choice 😭
    • Ok awesome thank you. Just wanted to have them in case I can find some and need to compare part numbers!
    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
×
×
  • Create New...