Advice On Early R32 Rebuild

[ltjpunk7]

I'm looking for some advice here. I recently imported an R32 to the US. It's bone stock, has no modifications. My goals are to work on the reliability of the car as first priority, and performance as second priority.

Besides suspension, brakes, tires, I thought a reasonable place to start would be replacing the turbos. Mainly because I want to avoid any catastrophic failure. I don't have a billion dollars to spend on this project at this moment, so it's going to need to be done in stages. If I was to start with the turbos, what would be the minimum amount of other parts I would need to replace at the same time? I was thinking probably turbos, full turbo back exhaust, plus/minus an ECU. Is this reasonable? Can I get away with stock on all of the other parts if I was to do this with -7 or -9 turbos?

Thanks for any guidance!

[r32-25t]

Replace the fuel pump as well as they are old and tend to not flow as well as they should.

You can do just those things but you will be limited to about 260kw (338 Australian horse power) with out changing the injectors as well, oh and the clutch will probably call enough fairly quickly as well

[ltjpunk7]

Yeah, I was thinking fuel pump too. I'd like to save money where I can, and trying to find an option cheaper than Nismo or Apex'i. The Deatschwerks 300 looks solid, but they don't make a specific one for R32. Has anyone had success with their universal? Or is there anywhere to buy and OEM pre-filter?

I know the injectors would help, but as you well know, this is how the snowball effect happens. I'm trying to decide where to draw the line on this first stage of the build. I'm already going to be out probably $5000 between brakes, suspension, turbos, exhaust, and the million fluids and filters I had to buy. Yikes.

[Sinista32]

Bone Stock, No Mods

Keep an eye on your oil pressure.

Your first catastrophic failure will be caused by oil starvation due to a failure in your oil pump.

This will be your first engine rebuild

You have targeted your turbo's expecting the ceramic turbos to fail. This will be true if you increase boost.

For your fuel pump go the Walbro and do the direct modification.

Keep your stock airbox, no need for Pods.

Freerer flowing exhaust always a good idea

[luke gtr]

Keep turbos under 15psi, and you shouldn't see any issues.

A nismo or tomei direct replacement pump isn't too pricey considering g it's direct fit, plug and play.

Check voltage to the fuel pump also, just had to put a direct feed wire and relay in mone due to pump seeing 10v.

Also, what have you got planned for the rest?

If you don't have the budget, don't try and cover suspension, brakes and tyres (we spell it with a y) in one hit.

Focus on what needs to be done.

One thing at a time.

Before you know it, you'll have spent more than you purchased the car for.

[luke gtr]

Keep your stock airbox, no need for Pods.

depends on the turbos you're running

[ltjpunk7]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Plans for the car is to make it a reliable street car that can be used potentially as a daily. I am about to move to a new city for a new job, so the amount of track time I'll get in my new location is up in the air. Which is why I'm not focusing on that currently; but certainly track time will be in its future.

It has new UHP t(y)res from the dealer; not great ones, but they'll do for now. As far as what NEEDS to be done currently, brakes are at the top currently. They're shot. Probably going to stick with the Sumitomos for now because I don't want to buy new wheels for a BBK. Will go Brembo blanks and Carbotech pads.

I have a little spare cash after the brakes, fluids (all of them, yikes), filters (got a Cosworth panel filter and new oil/fuel filters) from selling the current car, so maybe I'll start with exhaust and fuel pump (anyone know a good deal on one?).

I had originally thought of doing the oil pump as the first engine work, but was told it was stupid to do that if it's currently working fine. Mainly because everyone says its stupid to pull the motor and do the oil pump without rebuilding the whole bottom end ($$$). But it seems as though with this current stock setup I have to not rev over 7000 (oil pump) and not boost over 14 (turbos), or choose which I want to fix. Eek! I'm very open to suggestions on all of the above. Don't have as much support in the US as you guys do.

Edited April 17, 2016 by ltjpunk7

[luke gtr]

If not doing motor sports, keep the motor stock for now.

Should take a quick punch on the street without problem.

Keep the tyres.

Do the fluids.

Do the brakes.

And start putting the rest aside for future problems/mods.

If you want, do the y pipe, cat and cat back exhaust, should give a nicer sound and free it a little.

Get the front top camber arms checked, the bushes are generally shot.

They get a fair bit of stress, so wear a bit.

[luke gtr]

Also, I bought my fuel pump off ebay.

[KiwiRS4T]

And remember the GTR is a great fun car but its over 20 years old with a 2.6L engine so you won't be out-dragging Corvettes or BMW M3s!

[ltjpunk7]

If you want, do the y pipe, cat and cat back exhaust, should give a nicer sound and free it a little.

Get the front top camber arms checked, the bushes are generally shot.

They get a fair bit of stress, so wear a bit.

Yeah, I'm pricing out the full exhaust now. I want it to be to quiet, as I'm coming from a very loud MINI Cooper S. I picked up the HKS Silent Hi-Power for very cheap. Now working on the front two components. If I was to get the Mines front pipe, would it be wise to get the Japspeed flexible decat since there's no flex join in the Mines pipe? I've heard mixed things about the necessity of the flex in the front pipe. Or would that be too loud, and make more sense to get a high-flow cat? (and if so, any nice budget cats?)

Also, I bought my fuel pump off ebay.

Cool. There's some pretty good deals on a Walbro application (example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-Fuel-Pump-For-89-94-Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-Turbo-255-/220846675040?hash=item336b7cd460:g:BKEAAOSwQItUKxHq&vxp=mtr),but I was told you really need 276 LPH and the Walbro is 255 LPH. Would this pump be good enough if I was eventually to build the car and push 450-500 whp?

And remember the GTR is a great fun car but its over 20 years old with a 2.6L engine so you won't be out-dragging Corvettes or BMW M3s!

Ha, I was prepared for that. To tell you the truth, it's probably not as quick as my MINI was. But my other car is an F30 335xi with a Burger tune, so I've got a quick car to get me through the speed freak moments.

[KiwiRS4T]

You may as well spend the extra few bucks and get the 450LPH

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-E85-RACING-FUEL-PUMP-F90000267-450LPH-IN-TANK-W-INSTALL-KIT-MADE-IN-USA-/321699595239?hash=item4ae6ca43e7:g:WN4AAOSw6BtVS95W&vxp=mtr

[ltjpunk7]

You may as well spend the extra few bucks and get the 450LPH

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-E85-RACING-FUEL-PUMP-F90000267-450LPH-IN-TANK-W-INSTALL-KIT-MADE-IN-USA-/321699595239?hash=item4ae6ca43e7:g:WN4AAOSw6BtVS95W&vxp=mtr

But that one seems to be a universal kit, so I'd still have to buy a new O ring gasket, and anything else? Also, is there such thing as it flowing too freely? Would a 450 LPH be a problem on a stock motor? I have no intentions of ever going E85. Sorry, I'm a fuel system n00b.

[niZmO_Man]

Hi Silent isn't quiet lol.

[ltjpunk7]

Hi Silent isn't quiet lol.

Ha I know, you told me in the other thread.

But if that's the case, maybe a hi flow cat makes more sense than a decat. My only concern is that if I get the Mines front pipe that there needs to be some sort of flex in the system, which is why I was considering the Japspeed flexible decat.

[niZmO_Man]

Ah sorry I don't keep track of who I reply to lol. My front pipe isn't flex, it usually loosens dump pipe nuts or sends the vibrations downstream.

[ltjpunk7]

Ah sorry I don't keep track of who I reply to lol. My front pipe isn't flex, it usually loosens dump pipe nuts or sends the vibrations downstream.

Yeah, I think I'll grab the Japspeed flexible decat. Hopefully that gives it enough wiggle room to keep me out of trouble.

[sneakey pete]

The flex issue is between the two pipes to the turbos, not the rest of the system z as I understand it. After all the exhaust has enough play

[niZmO_Man]

My system is rigid (heh) so no flex in the front pipe. No issues unless I'm pounding (heh) curbs at a race track. I did break the rear dump pipe gasket after unintentionally hitting a retarded speed hump with the front pipe.

[ltjpunk7]

The flex issue is between the two pipes to the turbos, not the rest of the system z as I understand it. After all the exhaust has enough play

Yeah that's my understanding too. But it's kinda crazy that some of the premier companies would make it without the flex, if it was truly that important. But what do I know, I'm just a lowly American getting into the game late.

My system is rigid (heh) so no flex in the front pipe. No issues unless I'm pounding (heh) curbs at a race track. I did break the rear dump pipe gasket after unintentionally hitting a retarded speed hump with the front pipe.

You forgot to say (heh) after hump. Giggity.