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Hi All

For Sale I have:

Nismo 740cc side feed injectors out of an RB25. Nothing at all wrong with them, at a guess I'd say they have done 20,000 - 30,000km at the most.

Comes with rail, Fuel pressure reg and harness. Have upgraded to EV14 top feeds and no longer needed any of it. Even painted pretty.

Complete drop in package

$500

20160319_170005_zps5xlfwmhd.jpg

Davies Craig Fan hub, as new condition. Managed to get my hands on a cheap GTR fan hub, wanted to use the Nissan hub rather then a Davies Craig.

$100

FB_IMG_1458371081899_zpsvzyi3gle.jpg

USED Splitfire coilpacks (SF-DIS-001, Suit RB25DET series 1). At least one of the coils is no good, Never bothered spending too much time diagnosing, just bit the bullet and got a new set to save headaches later on

Still, might be repairable or I'm sure at least 3 of the other coils are fine

$60 ono

20160319_181647_zpsbpnpuqpr.jpg

All items are free to collect in Mackay, or can ship at buyers expense.

Feel free to PM me with any questions etc

Cheers

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  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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