Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Issue R33 Gtst

Taso84
 Share

Recommended Posts

Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Just after some guidance on the following issue that I encountered this evening.

The problem:

Happened out of nowhere really, i put my car in reverse, engaged the clutch and the car started moving backwards faster than normal. Tried to disengage the clutch, but the car kept moving - couldn't disengage the clutch so had to hold brakes until the car stalled.

Once the engine was cut, took my foot off the clutch and it wouldn't come up. Had to manually shove my foot under it to lift it up. Once up it went up and down as per normal. Started the car again, and same problem. Parked the car after that and didn't test other gears. (Was late and my car is loud)

Diagnosis:

Did some research this evening, and it sounds like the most likely culprits are a damaged clutch cable or clutch master cylinder.

If anybody is able to provide some guidance as to how I might go about diagnosing the problem for sure that would be sweet. I had a look inside the bonnet for signs of a damaged clutch master cylinder but it looked ok on the surface of it, then again, I am an untrained eye.

Also, was wondering if anybody has had a similar issue and how they fixed it.

Thanks

Taso

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464283-clutch-issue-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...