Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

thinking about buying one of these for an oil cooler set up. i like the built in thermostat and i really dont want to fit a relocator.

the hicas is removed so there is more room.

does anyone here have it fitted to there bnr32? to me it looks like there isnt enough room. am i wrong?

pic of said sandwhich plate

nengun-3025-04-greddy-oil_sensor_adapter

Hi all,

thinking about buying one of these for an oil cooler set up. i like the built in thermostat and i really dont want to fit a relocator.

the hicas is removed so there is more room.

does anyone here have it fitted to there bnr32? to me it looks like there isnt enough room. am i wrong?

pic of said sandwhich plate

nengun-3025-04-greddy-oil_sensor_adapter

Pictures and information in my build thread on page 6. NO CLUE about factory manifold and such, but I'm sure it's possible. I had mine in several different arrangements starting with your idea, and then moving to the final idea of relocating the oil filter as well... Note where my temp pickup is located, this is on the RETURN side from the oil cooler so that you know what the temp of the oil is going into the engine.

Need to remove standard oil cooler

The heat exchanger? You don't. I've fitted a few of these now to 32, 33 and 34 and they all fit. They're a little annoying because where the cooler hose comes from is very close to the engine mount, I'm talking 1cm close. It can be done and they're actually a great piece of kit that after fitting 10+ of them I put one on mine as well.

The heat exchanger? You don't. I've fitted a few of these now to 32, 33 and 34 and they all fit. They're a little annoying because where the cooler hose comes from is very close to the engine mount, I'm talking 1cm close. It can be done and they're actually a great piece of kit that after fitting 10+ of them I put one on mine as well.

Well there you go

Also the two additional fittings they send are blanked. They also sell some that are tapped 1/8 but this is NOT NPT, it's PT (Japanese). I drilled and tapped my blank ones for my temp and pressure sensor pickups.

was thinking that.

i noticed the coolers with the -10 outlets are considerable cheaper than the -12 ones.

im thinking most people buy the -10 ones?

in my mind im thinking bigger is better, no?

what are peoples thoughts on buying a oil cooler with -10 outlets and buying a -10 to -12 hose end?

was thinking that.

i noticed the coolers with the -10 outlets are considerable cheaper than the -12 ones.

im thinking most people buy the -10 ones?

in my mind im thinking bigger is better, no?

what are peoples thoughts on buying a oil cooler with -10 outlets and buying a -10 to -12 hose end?

Also interested in reasoning of -10 vs -12

I would have thought you may see a pressure drop?

In the process of fitting my oil cooler setup without relocation. Extra parts required on top of kit was

oil filter stud - purchased from kudos Motorsport

Trust/greedy sensor adapter to fit factory oil pressure sender. The oil temp sensor won't fit unless you get an adapter to step up. I am going to be running aftermarket oil temp/pressure gauge which will come with correct sensor fitting 1/8 npt if I'm not mistaken.

I have not fitted a relief valve to my N1 block but will be running a filter that runs one.

I have chosen to remove the heat exchanger but this is not a must. Clears up a lot of space which I like. Obviously the factory coolant lines that feed heat exchanger will need to be bunged if going down this path.

Manifold is fitted in photo.

post-100155-14615772869524_thumb.jpgpost-100155-14615772996771_thumb.jpg

Edited by wld093

Also interested in reasoning of -10 vs -12

I would have thought you may see a pressure drop?

1) I don't think the hole from the block that sends oil is 1/2" in diameter but it's been a while since I looked at it. -10AN is approximately .5" in diameter and is AMPLE (IMO) for the oil flow in most engines unless you are running something crazy I don't know about.

2) The Greddy kit fittings are -10AN fittings. I'd assume they would send -12AN if it were required for our engines.

In the process of fitting my oil cooler setup without relocation. Extra parts required on top of kit was

oil filter stud - purchased from kudos Motorsport

Trust/greedy sensor adapter to fit factory oil pressure sender. The oil temp sensor won't fit unless you get an adapter to step up. I am going to be running aftermarket oil temp/pressure gauge which will come with correct sensor fitting 1/8 npt if I'm not mistaken.

I have not fitted a relief valve to my N1 block but will be running a filter that runs one.

I have chosen to remove the heat exchanger but this is not a must. Clears up a lot of space which I like. Obviously the factory coolant lines that feed heat exchanger will need to be bunged if going down this path.

Manifold is fitted in photo.

looks great. from the replies in this thread i have decided to keep the factory heat exchanger so i dont see why i would need the additional sensor adapter. i was however under the impression that the sandwhich plate came with a stud. ill have to check what i have bought.

1) I don't think the hole from the block that sends oil is 1/2" in diameter but it's been a while since I looked at it. -10AN is approximately .5" in diameter and is AMPLE (IMO) for the oil flow in most engines unless you are running something crazy I don't know about.

2) The Greddy kit fittings are -10AN fittings. I'd assume they would send -12AN if it were required for our engines.

after all that i bought i the -12 version. ill be going -12 everything.

I am wondering what the oil flow is if you have the factory exchanger in place. I have mine laying around and may want to see what the flow is doing before you decide to leave it. If it's first in line the temp reading won't be what's actually going back into the engine and if it's last in line the work from your external cooler would be undone from the exchanger reheating it.

Just a thought. Oil flows out from the block on the outside of the oil boss and back into the engine through the center bolt FYI.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 馃槄. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 馃槀.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven鈥檛 played with her in a while, but I鈥檓 back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 馃
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
  • Create New...