Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got an r34 GTT with a few mods including highflowed turbo from MTA, got it nistuned and only made 298hp due to the stock actuator letting me down *apparently its only 5 or 7 psi) and the boost controller only being able to bleed off up to 14 psi. anyways, im about to buy a new actuator and get it retuned to run something around 20-23psi, would it be better to buy the HKS actuator that runs at 14 psi and bleed off up to the desired amount, although that might be the limits of the boost controller, or should i look at buying a turbosmart actuator from GCG who customise the universal fit actuator for the RB25 and have them set it at around 16-18 psi, so that way the boost controller wont be reaching its limit. I've tried googling but cant find any steady info on which is better than the other.

Haha also I found those mamba tek actuators on ebay for $150 and they can put an 18psi spring through it. any reviews? they look pretty sketchy but doesnt hurt to ask.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464307-rb25-actuator-options/
Share on other sites

The boost tapper behavior does not fully depend on the weight of actuator, but actually depends on the wheel combination used as well as how free flow your engine system is. Most of Garrett GT style turbine inside an OP6 rear turn to have a boost tapper behavior working with an OP6 rear housing, which is why majority of people ended up getting a .82 rear for boost stability and more power.

Any of those actuators mentioned your self will do in terms of help in minimize boost tapper in certain extend. I would prefer the Turbosmart a like once which different weight springs can be installed.

Get one as close as your targeted boost as possible.

The turbosmart dual port ones are great, however if money doesn't rain from the heavens for you the kingugawa / mambatek ones are pretty good too.

Im using a kinugawa actuator, though I had to make my own bracket out of some thick right angle steel. The preload is easily adjustable via a threaded rod, and there's plenty of travel in the actuator, so the boost doesn't creep at the top end like it used to with the standard actuator preloaded on a high flow turbo.

I've had 3 actuators rb20 25 and the Kando / turbosmart/copy...

the spring pressure of the 25 is about the same as that of the Kando with 1bar spring, the difference lie in the respective size of their diaphragm.

I chose to keep the 10psi rb20det actuator which handles 1bar with a bleed valve quite easily.

How much psi are you going to need?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...