Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

21 hours ago, colourclassic said:

 

That is absolute robbery. :O

I paid $550 for mine in VIC and thought that was steep for something which does nothing. No yearly subscription like in NSW either..

$220 per year for mine, [ IDDQD ]  i guess its cheap if your keeping it for over 10 years

$550 is noice though

Got off my ass today after work and decided to throw the new rad in. Little bit of fkin around but not too bad. Was mainly because I couldn't see much once the sun went down..... Keen to see how this goes. Will be changing the radiator cap to a Tridon 1.1 bar some time shortly as well.

20170302_180143_zps778oz9tz.jpg

More shiny stuff in bay :D

20170302_192147_zps6lc0vzqk.jpg

 

Car was running weird af after my radiator change, so just decided to rewire my fuel pump to see if that was a cause. Did that today and she seems to be running sweet! Still hunts on idle every now and then which sucks ....

IMG_20170304_2910_zpsmrxovuok.jpg

 

Started running like shit again on saturday night, sputtering and carrying on. Checked it all yesterday and found my battery was only getting 12.8v @2k rpm. Threw a new alternator in and good to go, 14.1v at idle. Took her for a drive, drives mint again. 

All my stuff from Jesse streeter has been ordered now, cams aren't in stock again till later this month so will be waiting a little on those. But my stubs and headgasket are getting sent off shortly :)

4 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Should be sweet when its all in. Im planning on getting an eliminator kit, just heard the balljoint is a pain to press out.

Which eliminator kit did you get?

Thread hijack, I bought one of the eBay ball joint presses like Johnny used on his post here http://www.trak-life.com/diy-hicas-delete-hicas-eliminator-kit/
Chucked my AEG battery impact on the back of it after cutting the faces of the ball joints flat and out they came. Total of 20 mins a side including cutting - Had more issues with my camber arms than the elimination kit. If you need more details send me a PM and I can help. 

  • Like 2
Thread hijack, I bought one of the eBay ball joint presses like Johnny used on his post here http://www.trak-life.com/diy-hicas-delete-hicas-eliminator-kit/
Chucked my AEG battery impact on the back of it after cutting the faces of the ball joints flat and out they came. Total of 20 mins a side including cutting - Had more issues with my camber arms than the elimination kit. If you need more details send me a PM and I can help. 

Cheers for that man, very helpful. Im gonna order the ball joint press and hicas eliminator kit soon.

Drags didn't go so well, was ford and holden night so packed. Only got 3 runs in so didn't really get to figure out whats good and whats not with the launch control. End up running 12.5, 12.7, 12.7, far from my PB 12.1. Can't hook up off the line, needa get that diff and subframe bushes in asap! 

Picked up these bride reps today for a reasonable price. Gave them a quick clean and threw em in. Almost full racecar spec now :P

IMG_20170309_53482_zpsdxhiqhjj.jpg

IMG_20170309_5278_zps3ahcv928.jpg

HG and stubs have been shipped from Jesse, should be here next week sometime :D Also ordered a ball joint press kit off ebay to do my hicas eliminator kit (thanks for the tips kingtube), expecting that next week as well. Will replace my front tie rods as well and get a wheel alignment. Anyone have any alignment recommendations for a street car?

  • Like 1

I decided that I only want to pull the rear end apart once, so may as well do it properly. Bought Whiteline subframe bushes, Superpro front and rear diff bushes and traction rods as well as my hicas eliminator kit that will all go in at the same time as the diff. 
Ordered valve springs from Goleby's as they had them instock and not to mention $50 cheaper! Should be here this week along with my traction rods. Cams arrived at Jesse Streeter yesterday so they will be sent out today/tomorrow with arrival next week sometime. All coming together now :D

IMG_20170322_59298_zpse6jojs65.jpg

 

Edited by klutched

Forgot to add these vids from Roll Racing the other night. Always have a ball out there. Mate rode out to watch so I told him to get a passenger pass and ill take him for a spin. Only got 3 watchable vids from the runs. Need to find my cam so I can start recording myself.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...