Idle Valve An10 Fitting?

[Ruthr33]

hey, can I remove the zinc coated t piece from r33 s2 AAC valve and tap a npt fitting that adapts to an10 so I can run a braided hose to the cooler for idle controll?

The reason I'm doing this is it never gets below 30 where I live. I have no reason for cold start so I'll remove that black box and its air lines.

Once I put my rb2530 in its home i don't want any chance of air leaks in awekward places. Hence the reason I've removed all heater hoses aswell.

While I'm thinking about it. My AAC valve could be replaced aswell. The idle screw is crappy/stripped and the o ring is botched with somthing I found. It works ok. But it used to leak. I'd rather just a complete new unit. Although I haven't searched and ure gonna crucify me.. Where do I get a cheap replacement or alternative?

[Jordy32]

There should be no reason you can't remove this and tap or weld a fitting on to this, but a new genuine rubber hose with quality clamps will last at least 10 or so years without leaking.

[Ruthr33]

Thanks for the reply. I have a freddy manifold so genuine parts won't fit

[iruvyouskyrine]

Hi again Ruth. I run absolutely no form of idle control on my 25/30. I put everything associated with it in the bin. I live in Newcastle nsw and it can get very cold here, and I also run E85.

I have never had a problem with cold starts or any form of idle issue in the last 2 years. I just run a blanking plate where the IACV would go.

[Ruthr33]

This just gets better.

But how do you set ure idle? Throttle body screw?

[iruvyouskyrine]

I guess so. Mine just fired into life first start and sits happily on 800-1000rpm. I have never bothered to touch it as I'm happy with it as is.