Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am considering taking my 6spd RZ Supra (240rwk) :wassup: on the track, I have adjustable height suspension, front and rear strut tower braces and good tyres but was just wondering how Supra's in general go on circuits. I hear lots about them in Drags but not so much on the track. Anyone seen em on a track or even raced against em? Obviously a lot is going to come down to the driver but I'm just curious on your opinions...

Also what kind of modification to suspension/handling are usual for track work?

B :throwup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46446-supras-and-circuit-racing/
Share on other sites

Hardly see any at circuits when I come to think about it.

I've seen one at Eastern creek and it was pretty quick. But there was one at Wakefield and it didn't fair all that great. But there's too much variables to say what's what.

true, but there is one supra racing in NSW state championships... improved production i think.. would have to look into it!

goes OK, not winning any rounds that i've seen! sure it could be done, depends on budget and competition etc..

are you thinking of just doing a track day, not curcuit racing?

Dont think Ill jump straight into any series :Bang: hehe

Looking to do track days for 6-12 months with the Toyota Club and if its for me Ill apply for CAMS Level 3 (Have Level 2 atm). Once I have that I look into what i want to do next. May keep the Supra for a road car and import a 96-96 RX7 from japan which has been modified stupidly as I have seen them go for $13,000 -17,000 landed in Australia. I would feel better racing a 13k car in a series given the amount of contact that seems to occur LOL.

Anyone in SAU racing in any series around Australia, Hill Climb, Targa, Production etc?

B :bscreen:

Hey Bepo,

Being in Melbourne you may know the Ice Supra - well Nige is supposed to be hitting the track with that soon (will be detuned from its current 570+rwkw's). His major concern has been brakes.

He's obtained a set of Porsche GT2 callipers to go on before he hit's the track. Maybe have a chat to him down at Ice?

SG I agree, wont be wanting to set great times first time out I just wanted to know what kind of things would improve the stability and reliability of the car on the track so I didnt either smash it or blow something up LOL.

Good point about the brakes snowman, it currently has the 97 mdl updrage discs and calipers and I am going to put performance pads on it and flush the brake system and replace with good brake fluid. Going to flush the radiator, clean the air filter and fit a new FMIC before hitting the track too.

Another racing question, the car currently has 17/45/255's Potenza's all round but given they are low tread I was thinking about fitting Toyo T1S's which I have heard good things about.

1. Anyone have any tyre suggestions?

2. Is 255 too wide on the front? Standard is 235 front and 255 back.

Bepo :)

Another racing question, the car currently has 17/45/255's Potenza's all round but given they are low tread I was thinking about fitting Toyo T1S's which I have heard good things about.

1.  Anyone have any tyre suggestions?

2. Is 255 too wide on the front?  Standard is 235 front and 255 back.

How much are the Toyos, if they are reasonably priced then i jump at them as i have heard good things. If they are up around $500 a corner then id be going straight to Dunlop D01Js.

As for the Supra not being a good circuit car, i would disagree. They have a great tractable engine, the later models have very adequate 4 pot brakes, and they have good suspension setup.

I would think a Supra with nicely upgraded susp, a decent clutch and the usual exhaust, IC and ECU mods would make it a very quick car around Melb circuits like Sandown, Phillip Island and Calder. They arent as light as soem of the other RWD Jap cars, but look at the wheelbase and track of the thing...it would be a very good car for circuits like Phillip Island and Sandown.

As for the Supra not being a good circuit car, i would disagree. They have a great tractable engine, the later models have very adequate 4 pot brakes, and they have good suspension setup.

By right they should be, F/R track and wheelbase have a nice geometry. Don't forget they hold the quickest time for the modified class around Nurburgring circuit. As I said before get your suspension setup properly and you'll be right.

What is the best way to determine the optimal suspension config if your not an experienced racer? Trial and error is the only way I can think of apart from getting a professional to do it? Just had a thought, might be able to find the settings for track use on the internet.....

Toyo T1S are $305 a tyre at Tyrepower which I though was very good!!

Thanks guys for the info and support, its given me even more motivation to get out there and have some fun :)

I'll post the specs and pics of my car once I pick it up tommorow!

Do SAU events allow other cars to come along?.... eg. Supra's hehe.

B :(

What is the best way to determine the optimal suspension config if your not an experienced racer?  Trial and error is the only way I can think of apart from getting a professional to do it?  Just had a thought, might be able to find the settings for track use on the internet.....

Since you are in Melb drop in to Centreline suspension in Thomastown, a simple wheel alignment will do wonders...and Chris will be able to give you great advice on a setup should any components be worn and need replacing.

.Do SAU events allow other cars to come along?.... eg. Supra's hehe.

Of course, last day at Winton we had 2 x R33 GTRs, 1 x WRX, 1 x R33 GTST and a TX5 turbo....so the more the merrier. Just keep an eye out on Vic Events :(

you could get a set of 16" rims at 225.. and fit the semi slicks used by commodore cup cars

only $250 a corner, thats if 16" will fit. that way you can have those tyres just for the track and spend less on tyres!!

Bepo the best way to go about not smashing is to use any instructors at the track day. They are always asking if you're a novice and want an experienced trackie to sit in the passenger seat and give some pointers.

Reliability, just make sure it's serviced and all fluids are correct levels or even a little above. I run an extra litre of engine oil, but it's a different engine. If anything seems suspect at any time just back off and head for the pits. You can never guarantee it will all be smooth sailing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gas MIG for learning, I was able to weld up some nice 1.6mm tubs so you can do thin stuff easily enough. Then moved on to thick caliper adaptor brackets with the same machine, all good.  Arc/Stick is great for dirty garden work etc, but Gas MIG for starting on car stuff.  Jump on the NCR FB page and search ATP Tubs or GKTech caliper adaptors for pics/info. I'm no pro but it wasn't hard to learn. Be willing to grind and go again though if it's cold etc. 
    • That's not a bushing!  
    • Oh and I got myself a grandpa spec dash mat.  
    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
×
×
  • Create New...