Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

So hoping to be pointed in the right direction before I go opening things up.

So here are the symptom's:

Upon start up after approx. 4-6mins of normal idle there is like a "grinding noise" that comes directly behind the CAS and on top of the cover, when it is there you can also feel the vibration of the cover kind off.

it happens intermittently so it could be there for like 10secs stop then after 1min it come back for like 30sec then stop and so on and so on. it goes away when the throttle cable is pulled and revs increases, release the cable then its back with in 20-40secs.

it only does it after it has warmed up from a fresh start.

Also to add the water pump and timing belt has only been replaced approx. 6 weeks ago.

Hoping to be pointed in the right direction of what to look for when I open the cover up.

Thanks.

ummmmm.......good question.

Are the idler pulleys generally part of the kit for the timing belt or they are purchased separately ?

If they are purchased separately then I would say no they may not have been done.

I would ask who did the belt, you can replace the belt by itself , BUT, generally you replace the belt, pulleys and water pump at the same time.

Or at least that's what I do when a timing belt needs doing.

dodgy bearing in the CAS is my guess

Only because I've had the same thing happen. Took the cover off, everything was fine, put the cover on, sounded crap. thought it was the cover vibrating, one day pulled the CAS out and tried to spin it and it felt like the balls were cubes in the bearing

Pull the cover off anyway, see if you can pinpoint anything first

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...