Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a Haltec then a Motec M84 and went back to a PFC D-jetro.

The car has been running faultless ever since, no more timing issues and its a real plug in ecu.

Unless going a crank trigger I would stick with Nistune or PFC. They just work.

Put it this way.

I'd keep my car stock before a pfc again.

They are a complete waste of money. Nistune does everything it does.

And you may not want what a haltech does now, but if you do you have wasted time and money getting a half arsed ecu. May have well gone the good one from the start. Not to mention if you do get a power fc and take it to a well known tuner and they can't tune it that means more money down the drain. Let alone all the benefits a haltech brings.

I'll also point out the ecu is arguably the most important part of the car. What's an extra $1000 of you buy new? On the price of a motor it's well worth it.

Tl;dr pfc waste of money.

  • Like 1

Put it this way.

I'd keep my car stock before a pfc again.

They are a complete waste of money. Nistune does everything it does.

And you may not want what a haltech does now, but if you do you have wasted time and money getting a half arsed ecu. May have well gone the good one from the start. Not to mention if you do get a power fc and take it to a well known tuner and they can't tune it that means more money down the drain. Let alone all the benefits a haltech brings.

I'll also point out the ecu is arguably the most important part of the car. What's an extra $1000 of you buy new? On the price of a motor it's well worth it.

Tl;dr pfc waste of money.

I couldn't disagree with you anymore at this point. The higher power you go with Nistune, the worse the tune gets. O2 correction always trying to battle with the tune. I can name quite a few different people with GTRs that are considering swapping from Nistune over to PFC.

You want accurate timing with a Haltech, you kinda need a crank trigger, it jumps all over the shop without one. It's not "just an extra grand" for most people who haven't swung a spanner in their lives. PowerFC does the job, and it has been doing the job for the last 25+ years on THOUSANDS of high performance cars. You cannot possibly use confirmation bias just because you had a junk tune, and trash the ECU which thousands of people have zero issues with.

  • Like 1

There was nothing wrong with my tune, bit ecu technology has come a long way. The pfc was good. It's just not worth the $$ they ask for now. And yes it is $1000 difference and I have the receipts to prove it. You don't need a crank trigger so all.

Point is, why half arsed do something that will end up costing you more down the line. Just get a decent ecu to begin with.

Because 50% of Gtr owners realise the hole they have dug themselves within a year of ownership and sell up and cut their losses. The other half bend over and open up their wallets anyway, spending a little more than a small fortune. :P

Edited by iruvyouskyrine

There was nothing wrong with my tune, bit ecu technology has come a long way. The pfc was good. It's just not worth the $$ they ask for now. And yes it is $1000 difference and I have the receipts to prove it. You don't need a crank trigger so all.

Point is, why half arsed do something that will end up costing you more down the line. Just get a decent ecu to begin with.

You can get them secondhand for $400 if you wait long enough, average price is $600 for a GTR PFC. How is it half arsing? It'll go with your mods all the way up to 450kw very comfortably.. even more if you go D-Jetro..

You don't need a crank trigger so all.

Its a known issue that they have difficulty reading the cas signal which is hit and miss, just call haltec or Motec and they will clarify your error.

Point is, why half arsed do something that will end up costing you more down the line. Just get a decent ecu to begin with.

Where is a nistune or PFC half arsed? You just don't get the wank factor bells and whistles that you really don't need in a street car if the tuner knows what he is doing.

The only real choice to make is to stick with the AFM or go MAP. Apart from that Nistune or PFC will manage a 400kw+ car easily and perfectly.

Edited by XGTRX

You can get them secondhand for $400 if you wait long enough, average price is $600 for a GTR PFC. How is it half arsing? It'll go with your mods all the way up to 450kw very comfortably.. even more if you go D-Jetro..

dont go second hand.

The ecu and tune is the most important part of the build.

  • Like 1

If you've built a 400kw car you have obviously spent abit of money so why would you skimp on the thing that is going to keep your car running right.

Buy the best computer your budget will allow and make sure you get it tuned by someone with the correct knowledge to tune it correctly

  • Like 2

fyp. Have you never spoken to anyone who has bought a stuffed second hand ecu?

This isn't a missile car, this is a 400+kw R. Choose parts wisely and don't cut corners.

Yes and I've had a hand in building many of those cars. I could confidently say less than 10% of those who have gone second hand, have had problems, I'm talking 40+ cars here as well.

So 90% have had problems?

I rest my case.

Okay mate, I edited my post before you posted that but if you want to be childish thats fine.

Anfanee, what exactly is a platinum pro going to do over a PFC that your average joe shmo actually NEEDS? Go on GTR PARTS on Facebook and you can pickup a PFC D-Jetro any day of the week for $700. I don't see what the issue is here?

My point is. It's a much better ecu. And it's future proof. If you end up deciding you want the extra features that $500 tune may have well gone a haltech from the start.

Also AFM are shit.

You're right on all those parts you just said, I just don't think the average person needs it, 400kw isn't even anything fancy nowadays in the GTR world. Every third GTR in Sydney seems to be minimum 350-400kw. You buy an ECU to suit your application and in most cases a PFC is going to more than cut it.

On top of that... you should be listening to your tuner anyway. If he tells you he prefers to tune Haltech or PFC, then you should definitely be listening up!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
    • Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
    • @Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto
×
×
  • Create New...