Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Engine Conversion

unlimitedpower
 Share

Recommended Posts

unlimitedpower Rookie

unlimitedpower

Posted
Posted
I have a future project in mind that im very seriously looking into,

Now 99% of you will tune round and say this is a stupid idea but please look at it from my point of view.

Im hoping to convert a RS4 Stagea to Diesel Turbo,

Now this is where i know your asking WHY???
Yes i know it will be slower,

I travel 700+ks a week for work and get Diesel fuel for free,
I have a Nissan Avenir SW11 Diesel Turbo and its a great car but getting up over 300,000ks now and i want something a little better for towing the boat but something im happy to drive every day.
Im not out to win any races,
Before anyone asks the RD28T was in the Nissan Patrol/Safari and that is 300kgs heavier than a staega,

Now i under stand the requirements of an adapter plate and pickup. (think same thing as a RB30 GTR conversion)
So im certain i can get it in there and running,

The area im a little unsure of is the wiring, How much input from the engine ECU is required to make the Attessa AWD system work???
I believe it may need a signal from the throttle position sensor, Which i guess i could fab one onto the injector pump to get a sensor feed setup from that.

Is there anyone on here that knows how all the wiring etc for this system works that i could bounce some ideas off, (someone with an open mind who doesn't just think that the only way to modify a car is to make it faster).
Or someone who has some detailed wiring diagrams of the system that would be great,
I would in parts at a Auto Electrical work shop so have a reasonable idea how wiring works and have sparkys to bounce ideas off and help me out,

I really want to try make this work on the AWD platform as i think with the amount of ks i do and pulling the boat up wet boat ramps the AWD will be very handy,

If it becomes seemly impossible then i guess that a 2WD platform could be used which will still give me the large diesel wagon im after.
We get alot of 2WD Stages here in NZ, So finding one is easy.

__________________

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464561-stagea-engine-conversion/
Share on other sites
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Great idea, anything is possible with enough determination. One would think a Nissan-to-Nissan transplant is easier than dropping in an engine from another manufacturer.

I've been following this LS1 thread where a member bought a VF GTS wreck and transplanted everything into a VF wagon shell in less than 12 months ... massive job and very well done, massive credit to the owner: http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?169220-VF-GTS-Wagon/

Good luck! Subscribing

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I have a Stagea workshop manual (in Japanese) if you need wiring diagrams.

Have you got a S1 or S2? If S1 you will need the ecu to control the Auto.

The problem with AWD is you need the sump because it has the diff in it so is the diesel sump anywhere near the same as your RS4?

Whereabouts are you? Joe Kyle in Henderson has been adapting the diesel block to run (petrol turbo) in Skylines so may have some tips for you...(re engine mounts etc).

unlimitedpower Rookie

unlimitedpower

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Excellent i will talk to Joe Kyle.
Im up in Northland, Project won't be a fast one, While my Avenir is still running strong there isn't much pressure. But im paying for the RD28T today so its not all just dreams,

If it is just a Tacho feed i should be able to steal that from the back of the clusters or directly off the back of the alternator or pump what ever the RD28T uses for a signal feed,
The TPS switch i was hoping to adapt to the back of the pump off the end of the cable drive,

Its just wiring in the TPS to the system that could be the problem as im unsure about where to do that,

Any diagrams would be great i'll PM you,

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Just to recap:

ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description

Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal

Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS

Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

You could just run your own length of multicore wire down to the passenger side panel in the boot and patch into the existing loom. Easy if youve already got everything pulled up to work on the fuel pump.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
unlimitedpower Rookie

unlimitedpower

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to let people know i wasn't another one of those peoples who just have big dreams but don't give things a go,

IMG_4385.jpg
IMG_4384.jpg
IMG_4397.jpg
IMG_4399.jpg
IMG_4396.jpg

RD28T from a Y60 Nissan Patrol. Doing the timing, water pump, seals, rocker cover intake and exhaust gaskets, (rebuilt or upgraded turbo from Steve Murch)
103,000ks from a side impact damaged truck

Then next up is get the money together for a 2WD-4WD sump adapter and pick up from RIPS,

Car i picked up super cheap.
Series 2 Factory Manual 4WD Turbo 220,000ks.
Has badly blown head gasket, Extremely tidy other wise and has had RS260 interior fitted

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Squeaky bushes

      By silviaz · Posted

      Maybe but doubt it, when I jacked it up it was creaking in the j arm again. The inners are all good, I inspected them. Remember that also it did fix the problem but temporarily.
    • GTSBoy
      Squeaky bushes

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be the other bushes. The inners.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Wheel Alignment Specs

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Once you lose the adjustable bushes, you have almost no adjustment at the front for anything that matters. You can only wind so master caster at the front, and ~7° is fine. You won't have choice of front camber. If you only have rear camber arms (ie, do not also have adjustable upper tension arms), you shouldn't change their length very much, because you will introduce bump steer. And, you will struggle to find a workshop that will be capable of doing all the adjustment work necessary to simultaneously achieve a decent rear camber number, get the toe right, and minimise bump steer. I would guess there's probably 8 hours of work there. So, stockish rear camber is fine. Although, keep in mind, that stock camber, by number value, does not mean stock arm length when the car is lowered. You will need to lengthen the RUCA to get back to stockish values and that will require the tension arm to be lengthened a little also. Without any other guidance, any change made to the RUCA should have the 2/3 of the same change made on the tension arm. But that is only a rough rule of thumb and the relationship might not remain linear across a wide range of adjustments. And it might not also be as close to minimum bump steer as you could achieve if you did the bump steer measurement and adjustment properly.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Well it does have a motor with the same DNA as an Accord V6 motor. The J30A is a successor to the Tiger rice cooker C32A motor found in those cars.
    • Ozdavroz
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      FD RX7 I would probably marry if legal R32 GTR is toughest NSX looks like it's made from leftover Prelude and Accord bits  
×
×
  • Create New...